Hi guys!
Does anyone have a spare good used/new crank pulley for SRT-6 they want to get rid of? It's the 7 rib one. The base version has only 5 ribs.
Regards,
SNPIEE

 

I have a good SRT 6 crank pulley (under 50k miles) and many other SR 6 engine parts. Would prefer to sell the lot for cash and carry from San Antonio TX. PM me if you wish. thanks

 

nm bought new from dealer

 

Good! Do you mind sharing the price? I have always been willing to pay half price for excellent used parts or tools and I do not ever want to overcharge. Thanks

 

I paid $267 (free shipping) drop shipped from Mercedes warehouse in Jacksonville, FL. The website I ordered it from is OEDISCOUNTPARTS dot com.

 

Thanks for sharing.

 

By the way, you don't really need to buy a new crankshaft pulley bolt. I wish I read the service manual before I bought one. (oh well its $20) But anyways, the manual says to measure it and if its not stretched beyond certain length (specified there but I don't remember) than you can reuse it. Also, most frown on using flywheel lock tools to prevent the crankshaft from spinning when you try to loosen or tighter the bolt but the manual instructs to using one. I made my own tool though - using a pipe base, few bolts, and a steel bar to hold the pulley in place. I think it cost me under $30, all from Lowes.

 

Pics please........
I assume this is the one that hits the ground and the bolt comes undone or the car flips onto its side. LOL
PS
Get a bolt, that is the last thing you want breaking.

 

Pics of what? The tool contraption?

 

Here's the tool I made to hold the harmonic balancer in place. All materials from your hardware chain store monopoly.

1 x 1.5" diameter pipe floor flange,
1 x 1" steel pipe,
4 x 3/8x3" full thread bolts
2 x 3/8x4" full thread bolts to hold the pipe so all bolts end up the same height.
1 x 3/8 Drill Bit to drill one existing hole larger and drill 5 more.

Before starting this I though it would be hard to drill through that thick flange but compared to the much thinner steel pipe, it was like going through butter drilling the flange.

The black impact 27mm socket from HB fits right into the flange, although I filed it slightly for smoother operation

The tool bolts got bent a little after fighting 150lb/ft force. The manual says to tighten it to 148lb/ft and then 90*. Well after 148lb/ft I was only able to maybe do 45*. Just too darn tight.

 

Picture of tool in position.

By the way, before I made the tool I loosened the bolt very quickly and easily with a quick turn of a starter. Just put a wrench on the bolt and put the wrench handle on the car rail and crank the starter. The cranking time has to be just long enough to losen the bolt. I KNOW THIS IS NOT THE SAFEST WAY TO DO THIS, AND CONSIDER YOURSELF WARNED! But then I realized I still need the tool to hold the pulley in place when tightening back up :P. Say whatever you want - I was in a hurry.

 

For anyone who is trying to loosen the bolt on the crank pulley, the easiest way is to remove the fan and fan housing, 2 clips and one plug, then use an impact driver. There is no need to hold anything but it has to have a fair amount of torque available. Mine is 650 ft lbs. Oh, and I have a crank pulley available.

 

Just left the store purchasing these items for the homemade tool. How did u determine the bolt pattern? Im replacing oem pulley with the 178 pulley. Im assuming tho that u just marked one and kept rotating 60 degrees and marked the next and again and so fourth.

 

If I remember right, I think I just set the pulley on the flange and marked the holes.

 

Special shout out to "snpiee" for his homemade specialty tool design. I used his idea and it worked flawlessly. Just as he said, it only cost about 30 bucks and is not hard to make. With alot of elbow grease (loosening 150ft lbs) it came off with no probs at all. Heres a quick pic of how mine turned out. Thanks buddy!

 

I'm glad it worked for you. I remember seeing somewhere a similar contraption used by someone as well. It saves you $$$ and when you don't need it for holding down pulleys you got yourself quite a weapon. Image the surprise on the perpetrator's face when you pull that thing out.

 

I am going to replace the crankshaft pulley, but a bit confused whether I need to replace the front seal as well or not. Because some people say it is better to replace the front seal as you are loosening the bolt and taking the pulley off just in case to avoid this in the future, while some say don’t touch it if it’s good.

 

Others say "if it aint broke, don't fix it". Whatever way you go it'll be right for you. Good luck.


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You can't get to the seal by simply removing the harmonic balancer; the front casing must come off. If you just need a harmonic balancer, just replace that, and don't go cheap. I bought one from Germany just last month for an M113 for $80 which was a waste of money and time. Your best supplier will be needswings. and you will need the right tools. i bought a 40" 3/4 inch breaker bar to torque the new one on.

 

Thank you, that’s good to know, because I was thinking that I will have an easy access to the seal after I remove a harmonic balancer. I am going to buy an updated crank pulley ($400) from the needswings plus a holding tool which is about $75 from the needswings too, that probably should work well. I am not sure if it’s ok to use any cheaper holding tool, please let me know. And to torque the new one I am going use my torque wrench with extender, I think it should work, because so far it is hard to imagine how to turn additional 90 degree after 148lb/ft.