Hey people,just got this 04 couple weeks ago.Its been a garage queen with 11k miles.Its pulling right so I figure left caliper issue,not sliding/hung piston,rust.I said if I'm diving into it,I'm going with better rotors and pads.I know that doesn't solve the problem but I ha ve the kit ready.Was also going to rebuild calipers and fluid flush.Now I'm reading about a Abs bleed witch requires special tooling.I don't like chasing parts,can the issue be before the wheels.I haven't done anything yet as I Should of before condemning anything.Any thoughts would be great.

 

I would check the tire pressure,,, #2 i would swap the front tires left to right, as long as they are not directional.

 

Just bleed the brakes after doing the pads etc. Forget about the ABS you have misread the info here.

 

So I pulled left front apart.Cleaned and inspected and found nothing wrong,piston is free.Went to bleed it and I've got no fluid to that left front.So am I Back to the unit under the hood.I see electric to it and looks kinda like a motor.I can do any work but not sure how to diagnos it.Any advice thanks.

 

A photo might help?

 

Thanks Ze,but a picture of what? I'm looking at the ABS Module.I summize its not letting fluid or pressure to that wheel.The other three corners are fine.

 

I assume that the car has always done it since you have had the car? Is the left rotor rusted?
Is the nipple that is used for bleeding that break rusted up, remove it and see if oil comes out.
Maybe the line going to the brake cylinder is busted and roughly fixed or badly dented.

 

TOTALLY agree with 180. Do the listed things in his post FIRST! What does the brake fluid look like from the right front brake? Is it clear and rust free, or look dirty? I would disconnect the brake line from the caliper completely on the left side and see if fluid will come out when you step on the brake peddle before condeminng the ABS pump. If you must replace the pump buy the entire unit. It is not difficult to replace. I have one on my work bench now and they do not come apart. The motor and the milled valve assembly are not serviceable. Go to ebay or redline auto parts ( they are in Florida) and have many Crossfire parts and free shipping. You can not exercise the ABS module with any scanner. The car is not programmed to do the peddle movement as you can see on other makes and models on youtube. A good scanner that goes beyond the generic OBD II codes and into the Mercedes specific codes should give you a diagnostic code if there is indeed a problem with the ABS module.

 

I imagine that if you were to supply 12v to the correct four pins on the ABS unit the solenoids would actuate and pump out any air trapped in the unit.
I was going to buy a used ABS unit and try not never got to it.

 

Thanks guys for your imput.Just went out and proved that I'm up to the ABS module.Took flex line apart under fender,took bleeder out and can blow freely through hose and caliper.Pushed pedal hard and no fluid from metal line.One would think that the default of ABS would still be to have brakes and just no ABS action.Guess I should try and see about the codes before yanking the module.Just another thought (and yes I know what thought did ) could a wheel speed sensor be involved?This thing sat a lot,11k in 16yrs,I'm throwing away the original tires like new,because I don't trust them.Original pads and rotors,gone.Want to do the tennesse run this fall,got to get this sorted out.I appreciate everyone who chimes in,my other xf from years ago was flawless didn't Know site existed.Thanks again.

 

Dont forget you could have collapsed brake hose going to the caliber as well. The inside lining can come apart causing a blockage.

 

Excessive toe-in on the left rear can make it pull to the right.
Mine had toe-in on right rear making it pull left.

 

Really,I posted a whole article about what I found.Said it had to be checked by a moderator.Now its gone.I cant type as it is, didn't make to steno class.Been out there checking anything else I could waiting for more input.Maybe I'm wasting yours and my time.

 

Or, excessive toe out on the RF will induce R pull

 

If you tell us what you have done then we might be able to say more. We are waiting for you.

 

Don't feel you are alone w/ all of those posting problems , I'm 81 , a two finger typist , my hard drive has long been full (between my ears) , & I lose stuff on this ancient lap top once in awhile .
So stop whining & lets fix this problem :-)

 

Sorry,I got frustrated,Just needed couple beers.I broke the brake hose from metal line in fender well.Took the bleeder out and can blow through the hose right out the caliper.No blockage.I pushed pedal hard with both non running and running.Not a drop of fluid.Now some say ABS is not serviceable,some say a scanner that cycles it.How about a wheel sensor?One would think the default would be to have brakes without the ABS working.I'm thinking code check first,but God knows where to get that.We have MB of myrtle beach but all they have is a fine spokes woman.This is a 11k mile car in 16 yrs so it sat a lot.I'm throwing the original tires away just cause I don't trust them.Brakes and rotors too,gone.Want to make the fall Tennessee trip so I'm trying to get this sorted out.Wow that deserves another beer.Cheers.

 

I'd try to verify some simple things like ;
is the line open going from the ABS manifold to the brake
is the motor on the ABS getting voltage ---- fuse ---- can you feel it run w/ your hand w/ the key on &/or a helper trying the brakes ----ck elec connection for corrosion & voltage
might be worth a beer to try these ------ hope you are making a video

 

Hey all,Just wanted to update thread.No brakes left front.Talked to a nice guy from Hammond auto werks in California.he had a post for some free advice and knows our cars.He said no fluid from hyd block probably a stuck internal valve.The hyd block is non serviceable.Was going to send out for $300 only to find i'd need a new hyd block @7 to 900 bucks.Ordered a whole assy.on ebay for $82 shipped.Now this came with identical controller which I believe is just 04 model.I read where the controller might need to match the vin.My car only had the ESP light on even without left brake.I have the whole unit out of mine so I plug in the salvage controller,connect battery and start it.Both ABS and ESP lights on.Install my original controller and just ESP light witch is normal for battery disconnect.Installed salvage hyd block with my controller,fresh dot 4,put a vacuum drawl to each bleeder and I got brakes.Also put goodridge braided lines,russel bleeders,front coil spings. Brake kit drilled/slotted rotors,ceramic pads and hardware.Put a set of the Achilles sport 2 tires and new front rims.I cant have scuff and don't need $1000 tires.In ending I set the steer back and forth thing but ESP light returned.I drove it about 4 short trips and the light went out and hasn't returned.NO LIGHTS hallelujah. Getting it aligned Wednesday after having the control arms disconnected.Almost done just a few things left but Its a pleasure.

 

Thanks for the follow up.