new rear sway bar bushings polyurethane install
Re: new rear sway bar bushings polyurethane install
I got the 9.5123G 19mm bushings in as well with brackets, that were split without grease nipples.
I installed the polybushings last night. Made the noise go away and made a noticable difference this morning on my way to work. The rear feels more secure and the rattling is gone.
the nuts are require a 13mm deep socket (except the front nut on the passanger side, for some reason is aligned a little different than the driver side and a suspension arm was in the way causing the deep socket to be too long and at an angle), I installed the new brackets with the nut towards the front of the car before the one facnig the rear. The first bushing install was a breeze, the second was difficult because the sway bar was so hard to manipulate with the first poly bushing already being installed and torqued. If I were to do it again I would install one side at a time, but not torque them down until both are installed.
I installed the polybushings last night. Made the noise go away and made a noticable difference this morning on my way to work. The rear feels more secure and the rattling is gone.
the nuts are require a 13mm deep socket (except the front nut on the passanger side, for some reason is aligned a little different than the driver side and a suspension arm was in the way causing the deep socket to be too long and at an angle), I installed the new brackets with the nut towards the front of the car before the one facnig the rear. The first bushing install was a breeze, the second was difficult because the sway bar was so hard to manipulate with the first poly bushing already being installed and torqued. If I were to do it again I would install one side at a time, but not torque them down until both are installed.
Re: new rear sway bar bushings polyurethane install
Ok picked up a digital caliper and measured tonight. (Not clean, got dark :P)
04
Bushing (jacked up, rear tire off.)
Rear 19mm. I measured on the other side of the bushing and it was the same +- .1
Front just as a test 25mm. Measured other side of bushing as well, same as above.
Can that be right, or was 04 different?
04
Bushing (jacked up, rear tire off.)
Rear 19mm. I measured on the other side of the bushing and it was the same +- .1
Front just as a test 25mm. Measured other side of bushing as well, same as above.
Can that be right, or was 04 different?
Re: new rear sway bar bushings polyurethane install
Where did you see the 15mm number? I could never find anything official on the NA rear sway. Not complaints from me just wanted to make sure I wasn't crazy.
Re: new rear sway bar bushings polyurethane install
Unfortunately I am using other posts from previous threads I found in the search feature for the rear N/A sway bar. I can't find any official documentation on-line or here in our collection of manuals. I called the local chrysler parts department and they looke dup a 2004 model that only shows one part # for both the srt6 and N/A but the 2005 have two different part #'s. They were unable to help with specifics on the diameter of the rear sway bar on either......
Re: new rear sway bar bushings polyurethane install
Unfortunately I am using other posts from previous threads I found in the search feature for the rear N/A sway bar. I can't find any official documentation on-line or here in our collection of manuals. I called the local chrysler parts department and they looke dup a 2004 model that only shows one part # for both the srt6 and N/A but the 2005 have two different part #'s. They were unable to help with specifics on the diameter of the rear sway bar on either......
That being said I ordered the same thing you guys found and will be putting them in before the dragon. Thanks!
Re: new rear sway bar bushings polyurethane install
Did the install, got them in there but the fit is not perfect. That being said on a test drive I feel like I could tell the difference, just a bit tighter overall.
Tools
Jackstands, Trusty MB Jack :: Jack rear end up
Torque Wrench, 21mm socket + Star lug thing thing :: Wheels off
Socket Wrench, extender, 13mm sockets - deep and regular, 13mm wrench :: Attacking sway nuts
14mm wrench, 1/4' hex :: MikeR sway link unhook.
nearest pliers i could find :: bending mount tab thing.
Jacked up wiped down ready to go. Standard procedure. Jack up front driver side, place stand on driver rear, jack pass front, stand pass rear.
Unhook swaybar link from both sides
twist sway up and out of your way, unclip wire holder from bracket (little tab sticking down) Use any combo of socket, extender, etc. to loosen mount nuts almost all the way off. Passenger side is worse than driver, lots of bars in the way.. (pictured is not a good way on that side) Once everything is loose you can bend the little tab at the top of the mounting point. I could not bend the back ones but doing the front one helped a bit.
Now that everything is loose take one side off completely. Lube up inside of bushing, spread and place onto bar with the slit facing the FRONT of the car. (pictured is incorrect) Slide bracket onto bushing and start the nut on the front side. You can pull the entire bar towards yourself to make things a bit easier. Once that is started head to the other side and get it to the same point.
Now the fun begins. The Bracket and Bushing are just a bit too big! Twist and push/pull the bar as needed to get the bracket onto the mounting bolts. The bracket that holds the wire is a pain to get back on as it was originally, I put them on backwards/whatever way was easiest. You can bend and play with the placement later. (I think I ended up on the opposite side as pictured) Once you get all 4 nuts started just tighten them all a bit at a time until everything is snug. Can take a bit of convincing and work.
Hook everything up and your back in business. (Drivers side looks better)
I think the biggest issue is the width of the inside of the bracket and the curvature at the base. The bolts are close enough together than the nuts are rubbing up against the bracket. Also because the bracket and bushing are a bit deeper they mount where the bar starts to curve. If they were offset a little towards the middle of the car (and straight part of the bar) i think they would fit much better.
Here is a my pretend mockup. (Nut size made up, bolt hole position taken from og bracket) Red dots are where the mounting bolts are and the white circle is the nut. The nuts are just a tad to close to the inside of the bracket because of bolt position.
If the bracket was drilled out like this I think it would go on better. The new holes would be facing the outside of the car so the bracket sits a little further back. That way the bushing would be on the straight part of the bar and not hitting the curve.
I have an 04 NA though, could be different?
Tools
Jackstands, Trusty MB Jack :: Jack rear end up
Torque Wrench, 21mm socket + Star lug thing thing :: Wheels off
Socket Wrench, extender, 13mm sockets - deep and regular, 13mm wrench :: Attacking sway nuts
14mm wrench, 1/4' hex :: MikeR sway link unhook.
nearest pliers i could find :: bending mount tab thing.
Jacked up wiped down ready to go. Standard procedure. Jack up front driver side, place stand on driver rear, jack pass front, stand pass rear.
Unhook swaybar link from both sides
twist sway up and out of your way, unclip wire holder from bracket (little tab sticking down) Use any combo of socket, extender, etc. to loosen mount nuts almost all the way off. Passenger side is worse than driver, lots of bars in the way.. (pictured is not a good way on that side) Once everything is loose you can bend the little tab at the top of the mounting point. I could not bend the back ones but doing the front one helped a bit.
Now that everything is loose take one side off completely. Lube up inside of bushing, spread and place onto bar with the slit facing the FRONT of the car. (pictured is incorrect) Slide bracket onto bushing and start the nut on the front side. You can pull the entire bar towards yourself to make things a bit easier. Once that is started head to the other side and get it to the same point.
Now the fun begins. The Bracket and Bushing are just a bit too big! Twist and push/pull the bar as needed to get the bracket onto the mounting bolts. The bracket that holds the wire is a pain to get back on as it was originally, I put them on backwards/whatever way was easiest. You can bend and play with the placement later. (I think I ended up on the opposite side as pictured) Once you get all 4 nuts started just tighten them all a bit at a time until everything is snug. Can take a bit of convincing and work.
Hook everything up and your back in business. (Drivers side looks better)
I think the biggest issue is the width of the inside of the bracket and the curvature at the base. The bolts are close enough together than the nuts are rubbing up against the bracket. Also because the bracket and bushing are a bit deeper they mount where the bar starts to curve. If they were offset a little towards the middle of the car (and straight part of the bar) i think they would fit much better.
Here is a my pretend mockup. (Nut size made up, bolt hole position taken from og bracket) Red dots are where the mounting bolts are and the white circle is the nut. The nuts are just a tad to close to the inside of the bracket because of bolt position.
If the bracket was drilled out like this I think it would go on better. The new holes would be facing the outside of the car so the bracket sits a little further back. That way the bushing would be on the straight part of the bar and not hitting the curve.
I have an 04 NA though, could be different?
Last edited by Airscape; 09-30-2012 at 01:44 AM.
Re: new rear sway bar bushings polyurethane install
Last edited by Airscape; 10-01-2012 at 06:09 PM.
Re: new rear sway bar bushings polyurethane install
I got the 9.5123G 19mm bushings in as well with brackets, that were split without grease nipples.
I installed the polybushings last night. Made the noise go away and made a noticable difference this morning on my way to work. The rear feels more secure and the rattling is gone.
the nuts are require a 13mm deep socket (except the front nut on the passanger side, for some reason is aligned a little different than the driver side and a suspension arm was in the way causing the deep socket to be too long and at an angle), I installed the new brackets with the nut towards the front of the car before the one facnig the rear. The first bushing install was a breeze, the second was difficult because the sway bar was so hard to manipulate with the first poly bushing already being installed and torqued. If I were to do it again I would install one side at a time, but not torque them down until both are installed.
I installed the polybushings last night. Made the noise go away and made a noticable difference this morning on my way to work. The rear feels more secure and the rattling is gone.
the nuts are require a 13mm deep socket (except the front nut on the passanger side, for some reason is aligned a little different than the driver side and a suspension arm was in the way causing the deep socket to be too long and at an angle), I installed the new brackets with the nut towards the front of the car before the one facnig the rear. The first bushing install was a breeze, the second was difficult because the sway bar was so hard to manipulate with the first poly bushing already being installed and torqued. If I were to do it again I would install one side at a time, but not torque them down until both are installed.
Re: new rear sway bar bushings polyurethane install
Not sure I quite understand what you need. The original part # that I ordered that didn't work is listed in the first post on this thread. I still have them laying in the garage as it would cost just as much to ship them back as they cost.
I found links for the new ones here on a google search https://www.google.com/#q=energy+sus...w=1920&bih=918
Re: new rear sway bar bushings polyurethane install
anyone have any problems with the sway bar mount tearing loose from under the car? I am having some creaking and squeaking and have already replaced one sway bar adjustable rod end which I thought was the culprit but the noises still exist. I haven't noticed anything like the entire bracket mounting area cracking or anything yet..... The new sway bar bushings don't seam to have quieted the noises down either.
Re: new rear sway bar bushings polyurethane install
anyone have any problems with the sway bar mount tearing loose from under the car? I am having some creaking and squeaking and have already replaced one sway bar adjustable rod end which I thought was the culprit but the noises still exist. I haven't noticed anything like the entire bracket mounting area cracking or anything yet..... The new sway bar bushings don't seam to have quieted the noises down either.
My thoughts as of right now. Bushing bracket might not be tight enough and is slipping down a couple threads under load. Sway link not keeping enough load on the bar so it's going limpish/neutral and snapping back into place. Have to swap to winters soon so may play this weekend. Will stick camera back there again if I have to for video of wtf is happening, I'm still trying to grasp exactly how things are moving.