No, but from under the car I found that pulling the bottom of the rotor inwards moved the A arm where it needed to go. I couldn't pull hard enough from under the car. I didn't think it was a good idea to pull on the rotor in the first place so I put the wheel back on and had my helper push in at the bottom and pull out on the top of the tire. Then the bolt slipped right through.

Les

 

let me know what you think once you do a test drive. any updated pics?

 

I went for a test drive and the car feels like it did stock or perhaps a bit firmer. I have some cord showing on a few of the tires so I wont be racing until the new ones get here. It could take a couple more weeks because I chose the cheapest shipping method. Here are the pics I just took in the basement. (work space) I may have to raise the rear a bit.

Les

 

sorry to hear about the lost nut. so did it level out nice with the fronts done now? i can not tell where the pics are noisy

 

I never had that much of an issue, plus my springs now are so short I dont have to unbolt the lca. Just the swaybar and shock then i can pull the spring out.

Im working on making some spring pad shims tonight

 

The back looks good. The front is still too high for my taste. But, who cares what I like right?

 

The front is higher than I want it but I can't go lower without rubbing. I think the back will need to be raised a bit to look even. I'm going to wait a while to see if the car settles a bit more or not.

Les

 

With the car leveled out it throws the weight balance off bad, with the raked stance it handles so much better

 

It's good to hear you got it all back together. Next time will be a charm.

IMO - I think the back wheels looks great and the fronts need to drop just a touch more.

 

What do you plan on for F & R camber adjustments?

 

I have -2º camber on the drivers side and -2.29º on the passenger side. (more left turns on the tracks I go to) On the back I was running -2º. The tires wore evenly but I have problems getting the power to the ground with the negative camber in the rear. When the new tires arrive I'll be using a longacre probe pyrometer to nail down the best pressures and camber for the track. I'm tired of guessing.

The weight balance front to rear is super front biased with or without the rake. My opinion has been that a lower back end of the car would transfer some weight to the rear where we have more tire. It's possible that lowering the rear messes up the geometry. I plan to put the car on scales sometime this year and have the geometry checked. Again, I getting real tired of guessing.

I'll make a change, wait for track day thinking how much better the car feels, go to the track and run slower. So much for sensory input from the butt. And I don't think anyone else's is better calibrated than mine. Don't get my complaining wrong. The car is stupid fast and has better than stock grip in the corners. But the modded Suby's and Evo's and even Honda's eat me alive in the twistys and get on the gas way before I can. I'm not judging my handling by comparing to other SRT's but by the other modified cars I run with.

Les

Photos of the 3 fastest cars this sunday. (I wasn't competing, just spectating)

 

I took some new pictures today to show the drop. The front isn't rubbing so I'm going to leave it alone for now even if it would look better a bit lower.

Les

 

It looks good Les, but I think the guys are right.... it would look even better with the front down a little more with the back where it is....


I just changed one of my front springs...by myself...... it was easier than the rears.... I did cheat and use a spring compressor...

Know that the bolts are keyed and needing to do a little pushing here and pulling there sure was good knowledge to have ahead of time too...... I'll do the other one in a while.... dang work

 

Looks good, but like 1/2 more in the front and you're golden.
I've had my front suspension apart so many times I can remove and install springs in 30-45 minutes. but my springs are so short all i have to do is unbolt the shock and swaybar and pull.

I'll see if I can go get a pic here in a second

 

Got the last front spring in today. After doing it once it was so much easier. It took 2 hours and with a better workplace I could do it faster. Now I'm waiting for new tires and an alignment before I pass judgement on cutting the springs.

Les

 

any comments on how it drives/feels so far?

 

My first impression was that it felt like stock, but stock was a long time ago. I did a run to walgreens and the supermarket and I do believe it's a bit firmer and bouncier. Tomorrow morning I'm taking the car out to the sticks to bed in the brakes so I should have a better feel for it afterwards. But remember, I've had everything in the back and front apart and my alignment is weird to say the least. The steering wheel is not centered. That won't affect the feel of the springs but I wont be testing the absolute limits in the curves tomorrow.

Les

 

yeah the bouncy part is what i was concerned of. thanks for all the info i appreciate it

 

Les, maybe you need to go to a track with longer straightaways...lol
Those ricer go-carts wouldn't stay with you there...

Seriously, I think why our N/A friends are so good on the twisties, is gearing. Having the stick and a higher rearend, makes for very good cornering. The other note, is our throttle only gives us 60% at shift, so you aren't getting that surge coming out as you would with a stick...but once you are free and onto a staightaway, I bet you pull them just fine...good luck....

 

Not too many track choices here in P.R.

That Suby has 450 at the wheels! The Honda is ....... a freak. He drives it with a full roll cage as a daily driver. He arrives at the track with his wheels in the back, tools, tent, hammock, BBQ and wife. Takes the seats, windows, gosh darn everything out of the car. No carpets, undercoating, door panels, just painted metal inside. The number he uses is 225 to the wheels. I'll bet the car only weighs around 1600 lbs. He ran 13 at 109 at the drags and is quicker than some race cars in the curves. He did an engine swap but it's a Honda engine. The Evo I can take pretty easily on the straights but with 4 wheel drive he gets on the gas much quicker than I can. He's quicker in the curves too. All 3 brake with the best.

I'm happy with my power levels, I believe that now I'll be braking equal to the best cars out there. (The stock brakes with Porterfields stopped better than most already) Now if I can get the right combination for the suspension. I'm hoping the cut springs will be a step in the right direction but I'm not convinced. I cut them as an experiment more than anything else. I figure I'm shooting in the dark anyway and this won't cost me money and I may learn something. In the near future I may seek professional advice.

Les

Oh, by the way, it's raining cats and dogs today so I won't be venturing out with my bald tires. Sorry mrphotoman.