Here is the wheel deal
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Joined: Feb 2008
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From: VA
Here is the wheel deal
This is the wheel deal for you gear heads that have swapped wheels, added spacers and had to shorten your bolts. The bolts have a way of sticking into the wheel hub too far and hitting the rear brake springs.
Cutting the studs shorter is not as easy as throwing them on a grinder and shortening the stud length. The first thread is very likely not true and has a lip that will cause thread deformation over time as the wheel is mounted and unmounted.
Please let me show you a practice that I use to cut them shorter and have a good bolt when done. Get a 12 x 1.5mm Die ( die is the part that makes male threads, as compared to a tap that makes female threads). You have but to only screw the die on to the uncut bolt before you grind off the end.
When you grind the bolt the die in un screwed from the bolt clearing the threads after the grinding process. Its real simple and easier than forcing the bolt into the wheel hub to form the first thread, Getting it a little wrong is a bad thing and boogers up the threads. Remember 12 x 1.5 mm die, Tap it you wanna true the hub threads, photo shown here.
My rear threads are shorter so I color coded them to keep them straight, front versus rear wheels.
Another hint is to have a small magnet handy when you swap wheels. I have gotten tired of chasing the bolt after it is loose and in the wheel cavity, magnet pulls it right out.
Another trick is the sanding of the 17mm socket so it is baby butt smooth; to protect the wheel’s finish. I have spoken of this previously but it is cheap and till you see it you don’t know how good it really is. Chuck the socket into your impact gun and hold a sandpaper sheet in your GLOVED hand. As you run the wrench spinning the socket the front edge is smoothed and polished if you use fine paper to finish up.
When you do the wheel change and bump the wheel the socket does not take out a divot on the finish, sweet. Photo shown to give you an idea of the look, like fine silver and sooo smooth. Did I say easy??
Waiting fer the weekend WOODY
Cutting the studs shorter is not as easy as throwing them on a grinder and shortening the stud length. The first thread is very likely not true and has a lip that will cause thread deformation over time as the wheel is mounted and unmounted.
Please let me show you a practice that I use to cut them shorter and have a good bolt when done. Get a 12 x 1.5mm Die ( die is the part that makes male threads, as compared to a tap that makes female threads). You have but to only screw the die on to the uncut bolt before you grind off the end.
When you grind the bolt the die in un screwed from the bolt clearing the threads after the grinding process. Its real simple and easier than forcing the bolt into the wheel hub to form the first thread, Getting it a little wrong is a bad thing and boogers up the threads. Remember 12 x 1.5 mm die, Tap it you wanna true the hub threads, photo shown here.
My rear threads are shorter so I color coded them to keep them straight, front versus rear wheels.
Another hint is to have a small magnet handy when you swap wheels. I have gotten tired of chasing the bolt after it is loose and in the wheel cavity, magnet pulls it right out.
Another trick is the sanding of the 17mm socket so it is baby butt smooth; to protect the wheel’s finish. I have spoken of this previously but it is cheap and till you see it you don’t know how good it really is. Chuck the socket into your impact gun and hold a sandpaper sheet in your GLOVED hand. As you run the wrench spinning the socket the front edge is smoothed and polished if you use fine paper to finish up.
When you do the wheel change and bump the wheel the socket does not take out a divot on the finish, sweet. Photo shown to give you an idea of the look, like fine silver and sooo smooth. Did I say easy??
Waiting fer the weekend WOODY
Thread Starter
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Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 4,508
Likes: 30
From: VA
Re: Here is the wheel deal
Being that Iam in the last quarter of life and a C and open heart surgery survivor I'd kill for a lathe now. My 6 car and 2 car garages are neatly filledl though so your safe for now Mike.
My lathe is a black n decker 3/8s drill Chucked in a bench vise thank you.
It'll do for most small things.
Woody looking for another tool toy. Yeah
iPhone.
My lathe is a black n decker 3/8s drill Chucked in a bench vise thank you.
It'll do for most small things.
Woody looking for another tool toy. Yeah
iPhone.
Last edited by waldig; 08-12-2009 at 07:58 AM.
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 6,459
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From: Indialantic Fl.
Re: Here is the wheel deal
or you can get the correct size lug bolt from me at my cost. and not have to cut it at all jim
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...ight=lug+bolts
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...ight=lug+bolts
Administrator / Senior Member / Retired
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From: Aurora , ILL
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Joined: Jun 2009
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From: Fort Worth, Texas
Re: Here is the wheel deal
Originally Posted by waldig
Another trick is the sanding of the 17mm socket so it is baby butt smooth; to protect the wheel’s finish. I have spoken of this previously but it is cheap and till you see it you don’t know how good it really is. Chuck the socket into your impact gun and hold a sandpaper sheet in your GLOVED hand. As you run the wrench spinning the socket the front edge is smoothed and polished if you use fine paper to finish up.
When you do the wheel change and bump the wheel the socket does not take out a divot on the finish, sweet. Photo shown to give you an idea of the look, like fine silver and sooo smooth. Did I say easy??
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 874
Likes: 0
From: Houston, TEXAS
Re: Here is the wheel deal
Originally Posted by waldig
This is the wheel deal for you gear heads that have swapped wheels, added spacers and had to shorten your bolts. The bolts have a way of sticking into the wheel hub too far and hitting the rear brake springs.
Cutting the studs shorter is not as easy as throwing them on a grinder and shortening the stud length. The first thread is very likely not true and has a lip that will cause thread deformation over time as the wheel is mounted and unmounted.
Please let me show you a practice that I use to cut them shorter and have a good bolt when done. Get a 12 x 1.5mm Die ( die is the part that makes male threads, as compared to a tap that makes female threads). You have but to only screw the die on to the uncut bolt before you grind off the end.
When you grind the bolt the die in un screwed from the bolt clearing the threads after the grinding process. Its real simple and easier than forcing the bolt into the wheel hub to form the first thread, Getting it a little wrong is a bad thing and boogers up the threads. Remember 12 x 1.5 mm die, Tap it you wanna true the hub threads, photo shown here.
My rear threads are shorter so I color coded them to keep them straight, front versus rear wheels.
Another hint is to have a small magnet handy when you swap wheels. I have gotten tired of chasing the bolt after it is loose and in the wheel cavity, magnet pulls it right out.
Another trick is the sanding of the 17mm socket so it is baby butt smooth; to protect the wheel’s finish. I have spoken of this previously but it is cheap and till you see it you don’t know how good it really is. Chuck the socket into your impact gun and hold a sandpaper sheet in your GLOVED hand. As you run the wrench spinning the socket the front edge is smoothed and polished if you use fine paper to finish up.
When you do the wheel change and bump the wheel the socket does not take out a divot on the finish, sweet. Photo shown to give you an idea of the look, like fine silver and sooo smooth. Did I say easy??
Waiting fer the weekend WOODY
Cutting the studs shorter is not as easy as throwing them on a grinder and shortening the stud length. The first thread is very likely not true and has a lip that will cause thread deformation over time as the wheel is mounted and unmounted.
Please let me show you a practice that I use to cut them shorter and have a good bolt when done. Get a 12 x 1.5mm Die ( die is the part that makes male threads, as compared to a tap that makes female threads). You have but to only screw the die on to the uncut bolt before you grind off the end.
When you grind the bolt the die in un screwed from the bolt clearing the threads after the grinding process. Its real simple and easier than forcing the bolt into the wheel hub to form the first thread, Getting it a little wrong is a bad thing and boogers up the threads. Remember 12 x 1.5 mm die, Tap it you wanna true the hub threads, photo shown here.
My rear threads are shorter so I color coded them to keep them straight, front versus rear wheels.
Another hint is to have a small magnet handy when you swap wheels. I have gotten tired of chasing the bolt after it is loose and in the wheel cavity, magnet pulls it right out.
Another trick is the sanding of the 17mm socket so it is baby butt smooth; to protect the wheel’s finish. I have spoken of this previously but it is cheap and till you see it you don’t know how good it really is. Chuck the socket into your impact gun and hold a sandpaper sheet in your GLOVED hand. As you run the wrench spinning the socket the front edge is smoothed and polished if you use fine paper to finish up.
When you do the wheel change and bump the wheel the socket does not take out a divot on the finish, sweet. Photo shown to give you an idea of the look, like fine silver and sooo smooth. Did I say easy??
Waiting fer the weekend WOODY
Last edited by TerryR; 06-05-2010 at 07:56 AM.
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