Not sure if this has been documented anywhere, but thought if not I would add this quick help guide.
This applies to the NA models, I don't know about SRT6's.

To replace the alternator :
1. Disconnect the negative battery terminal ( VERY IMPORTANT !!! )
EDIT: Forgot to add : Now remove CAI tube or the two OEM air intake tubes.
2. Remove the radiator fan shroud ( one wire plug, 2 clips and a bunch of wiggling )
3. Remove the serpentine belt. ( 17 mm socket and pull bar or long socket wrench )
4. Remove the 2 alternator mounting bolts ( E14 Torx socket )
5. Rotate the alternator counterclockwise about 45 degrees.
6. Wiggle the alternator to the front until you can access the wire plug in and the big cable nut.
7. Remove the plastic cap from the big cable nut by prying at the base with a big screwdriver - DON'T DROP IT !
8. Remove the 13 mm nut and pull the cable off the terminal.
9. Unplug the wire plug.
10. Wiggle the alternator forward until you can remove it. ( IT'S HEAVY )

Reverse all steps to install : HINT: when you are ready to put the mounting bolts back in, use the big screwdriver to pry the top of the alternator up so the top bolt will go in, then you can rock it back and forth to get the bottom one in.

My alternator is a Valeo, not certain all this applies to a Bosch.

If you have an air or electric wrench, this is about a one hour job, out and in.

EDIT: Tools required :
Shop light
10 mm socket and wrench for the negative battery terminal
17 mm socket and wrench for the belt tensioner
13 mm socket and wrench for the alternator B+ terminal
E14 Torx socket and wrench for the alternator mounting bolts
Big standard screwdriver
Whatever tools required to remove CAI tube(s) ( if that is what you have )

 

Thanks! Saved for future reference.

 

And, George, why did you feel this was the time to post?

Hmmmm?

 

Thank you for this informative thread
I have "stickied" it here

Gary

 

Thanks I saved it also.

 

To answer Max's question for everyone :
Chris ( latemodel21 ) send me a 65mm SRT6 alternator pulley to try.
I didn't have a impact wrench short enough to fit and remove the 24 mm pulley nut with the alternator in place, so I removed it.

Turned out that the SRT6 pulley would not work due to a small extension on the rear face that the NA pulley does not have.

Before you start, yes, I know that we are talking 6 rib vs 8 or 9 rib ( whatever the SRT6 uses ) belt, but in theory the 6 rib belt should work for a test run if the rear sides of the pulleys line up, which they didn't.

The object of this exercise was to see if a 25% underdrive using a lightweight aluminum pulley would both give you 2 or 3 extra HP, while at the same time keep the voltage at @ 14 v even at the 25% reduced speed.
This is about 5,600 RPM alternator speed at 60 MPH as opposed to OEM 7500 RPM )
( in theory, there is enough slack in the current belt tensioner to accommodate the pulley size increase. )

Chris thought maybe we could get a batch made up that would be in the range of $60 - $70 IF this worked, but that is all shelved now that we could not do the experiment.

As a side note : If anyone has an old alternator pulley from an NA, if you could send it to me or Chris, he said he would see about getting a prototype 65 mm aluminum 6 rib pulley made and we could try again.

 

I didn.t mean to do that, friend.

But thanks for the review/preview. Well done.