Just a tongue in cheek comment, no offense meant.
What kind of food will you be serving? A restaurant will keep you busy all the time and a good one even more so. Good luck with it.

 

I figured as much. I was in your area on December 20, brought the Graphite one home from Sedona and now have the Red one for sale.

Kinda wanted to stop and say hi, but we were in for a LONG DRIVE - 1950 miles!

Good luck with your new adventure, I can only imagine what it's like. (Asian or Oriental, isn't it??????)

 

Good luck with your new adventure!

 

Unbelievable! If I'm ever in Arizona I'll come down and buy you several large beers! I've had my 04 Crossfire almost two years and had the mystery no start problem five times, always a few months apart.

I've been stranded in the car park of my local airport twice, heathrow once and had the problem twice at home. I got towed once and it worked fine at the garage, left it at the airport for 24 hours another time and it worked the next day. I've joined the RAC (rescue service) at £130 per year purely because of this problem and the time I called them the guy fiddled with the ignition key for a while and it started by chance.

Today it happened again at home and the thought of selling the car crossed my mind but I thought I'd google one more time and came across the original 'mystery won't start' thread. Previously I searched for 'immobiliser problem' and didn't find it. The trick this time was to search for 'crossfire won't start' simple huh? :-)

I was so sure you'd found it that I've just removed the rcm at 10pm in the dark, soldered it and the car started after 24 hours of nothing, parked on the driveway.

I'm now relaxing with a celebratory glass of wine and so happy..!

$10 is way too cheap to relieve this much stress. I almost feel guilty that I used your info to fix it for free..

Thanks so much from here in the UK :-)

M

 

Oh man, good luck with that!

 

Welcome to the forum, there's lots of great information here. Keep searching you'd be surprised what you'll find!

 

Thanks so much for posting the repair info. A friend of mine resoldered the RCM and also repaired the horn. Now if I can only get the damn check engine light to go off. P0400 code!

 

Wooow. I really wish this had been here August of 09! I held up traffic(it was on the radio) on I-5 the first time this happened to me I was on the verge of tears. Lol! Spent almost 800 at the dealership getting this repaired..thank you at least now if it ever happens again I have this!! =)!!! This forum is the best thing everrrrr.

 

RCM problem relay nearest firewall has black contacts. CLEANED THEM sanded them. No more p0410 code. Worked for a day now code is back. Car runs fine. Is the relay replaceable? I know its the air pump but the light is annoying.

 

Well I had my RCM replaced at at a Chrysler, Jeep, Dodge dealership. The cost was $245.00 after a 25% Employee discount. My recommendation is the tighed1 $10.00 repair job.

 

Congrats on opening up your own place Tighed1! You must be a "glutton' for self sacrifice-totally pun intended!! That's a huge amount of work, and I'm impressed because that's a business you really have to know well. My best friend in Cincinnati has been in it all his life and so I know what he puts into it.

I'll send my RCM into you when it goes, as to be honest I absolutely suck at soldering. Thanks so much for doing these. That's a swell thing for you to do. Best wishes on the new gig! Mark

 

Want to send out a BIG Thanks to blackwellnorfolk (Dwayne) we now have a second Loaner RCM!
Sweeeeeeeeeeet!

 

Today I repaired my RCM and it was ready anyday. At first glance, it appeared to be fine. Then under a lighted magnafied glass, you could see the studs were not soldered in properly on two of the 3 joints.

But my biggest suprise was the corrosion(?) I found on plug B. I sprayed it out with circuit board cleaner and found no damage on any of the contact pins. Before going back together, I put a light coat of Truck-Lite anti-corrision compound on all the plugs/pins. See pics.

Thanks again DJ and a great forum for information.

 

Thanks alot for this great fix...Im actually going to show it to the dealer and let them do it, Im a bit worried I might not solder it right and screw it up. Do you think this falls under the 90 day dealer warranty, or I also have the extended warranty.

 

Do you actually put the gun's hot tip on the post to heat it up or just next to it ? If Im reading your pics right...it seems the bad ones have the post exposed with little to no solder on them and pretty nicked up. The better posts seem to be somewhat covered with solder ? Just dont want to overheat the board (any tips)...(.yea dont hold the gun to long)

 

You want to heat up the post so the soldier will adhere to it.
Otherwise you end up with what you started with.
A bad connection.

 

First off, Thank You for your help,greatly appreciated .

dealers response to what could be wrong with my "mystery
start"...Gee I dont know I work on Toyota's...ok next !!

Hey since Im stiil in the 90 day warranty and bought the extended warranty is a new rcm module covered ?

Feeney chrysler in Elgin,ill was recommended by a forum member, maybe they can do it. OR with all this coverage should I just go to a mercedes dealer ?

 

I would like to send you my rcm for repair but
I cant go without it , however I would still like to send you $20 for patience and help. How do I do this ?

Until I get this rcm fixed, is there any secret to restarting the car. Im almost afraid to drive anywhere, eventhough its only died on me one time.

 

To do this properly you should remove all the solder that you can with de-soldering tape, clean the posts with a small file or fine emery paper and then re-solder.

These were dry joints when they were made because the post did not get hot enough to allow the solder to adhere to it. Vibration was not the problem as has been mentioned in the past.

Adding more solder to the joint will not really solve the issue as the post must be clean to allow the solder to physically adhere to it.

Use resin cored solder only or one that says it is for electronics, that solder you used for your copper plumbing is no good at all.

 

Also, be aware of the wattage of your soldering iron/gun. When working on PCB's, you want to avoid overheating the board or components.

Definitely avoid solder intended for plumbing as it will be lead free and have a higher melt temp.