Yes, 4 is about the maximum number of blocks you can log and maintain good resolution due to the slow speed of the bus. I just ran the log to see how many PID's were available from the car in real-time. I'll start off the proper runs by looking more specifically at one or two blocks against RPM.

Simon.

 

Hey Woody,

I realize this thread is about 6 months old... but you should maybe check these guys out... you too HDDP.

AutoEnginuity

Their scan tool is just a scan tool... but it supports most if not all ODBII and CAN stuff out there and comes with their 'SpeedTracer' software for doing on the drive dyno data pulls.

I may get their basic kit just for kicks... as it's pretty cheap.

 

Thanks TimeLord, I have already built a scantool based on the ELM 327 chip and it works a treat! Cost me about 25GBP to make. The biggest problem was finding out which protocol the car used. There are loads of these about now but most of the DIY stuff are ELM based and there are alot of people buying them in reboxing them and charging far too much for them. Sometimes you are paying for their front end software but there is tons of open source stuff that works perfectly well.

 

Man, I wished we could retune our ecu!!

 

I use autotap on my Corvette, you may try: www.autotap.com. I believe they also log ISO.

I am very lucky with my corvette I can log with autotap and use LT1 edit to write to the ECM...

Have you thought of running a wideband O2 sensor to see what you are running in terms of AFR ? PLX makes add on system... just a thought...

I have been waiting as well to see if anything was available to tweak the ECM on the Crossfire's even though it is still fun to beat around in...

Mo

 

After reading your replies it really sounds like you guys know your thing. So I was wondering if maybe you could give me the heads up on my Crossfire. Its a 2004, and almost every light is on the dash. Let me begin with the 3 abs lights are on plus the check engine light etc. So I took it in to Chrysler, and they preceded to tip all the wiring up from the back to the front. The problem was it was only a brake problem,they were confused because my gas light was on and my windshield wipers light was on. Maybe they thought they were flying a plane! Anyway, in the process they shorted out my ABS module, my shift lever module and my spoiler switch. About $1,700.00 worth of problems. Of course they won't admit or take any responsibility for it. And of course I'm 4,000 miles over my warranty so Chrysler Financial wont help. My question is because of there awful work, who can I take my car to that I can trust in Los Angeles? The dealership that i bought it from, Rusnak, has closed down. Also can you tell me were the modules are located? Are they both connected somehow? And shouldn't the fuses blew out first or something. One strange thing that happened right before all this,was that my trunk light blew out and actually melted. HELP?

 

RUSNACK closed ?... Heck they have been in business since I was a kid in the SF valley...
Give me a call in the next few days and I'll take a look at your car. I don't have a scan tool since they run over 7k, but I might be able to fess out some of the stuff...

 

Hi Spinney,

First off don’t panic! It is actually quite difficult to permanently damage most of the electronic systems on the car as they have to be exceptionally robust to perform in the automotive environment in the first place.

You really just need to work through things methodically and test the individual systems. If you haven’t already got a copy of the service manual then I would suggest you download that first (do a search on here for the link to the file) so you can refer to the relevant sections and wiring diagrams. There are also step by step diagnostic procedures that are worth a look.

Is the car actually running and performing normally at the moment apart from having the dash lit up like a Christmas tree? You say that they shorted out your ABS module, spoiler switch and tranny module. Do you mean that all these modules/functions are now inoperative or they tried shorting things as part of their diagnostics?

If your spoiler has deployed permanently don’t assume that this is a problem with the switch, the ABS system (Controller Antilock Brakes) actually does this when in fault mode! I suggest you check out all the connections to the wheel speed sensors (in the wheel wells and at the CAB) Note of caution though - the service manual has the wrong annotation for the CAB unit, but the wiring is fairly obvious and can be traced from the connector behind each front suspension tower in the engine bay. The CAB will stay in fault mode until it receives four good speed sensor signals when you drive off. Under the fault condition I get a 5,000 rpm rev limit on my 6-speed too, but that may not be the case with your Autostick.

The CEL (check engine light) will remain on even after a fault has cleared itself and may have been tripped when the dealer was performing his ‘tests’. So the first thing I would do if you don’t have a scantool is disconnect the battery for half an hour or so and then reconnect it. The CEL will now either stay off if the original fault/test that tripped it has been rectified, or come back on again if there is still a problem. If the latter is the case then I would really recommend spending $50-$100 on a scantool, any of the ELM327 based DIY stuff and some open source software will work for reading codes and resetting the CEL... They will also allow you to log real-time sensor data, although not all are supported (fuel pressure is one that springs to mind). As HDDP says the genuine DCX DRBlll runs around 7k but you don’t really need that to diagnose most things..

I really wish I was that side of the pond to help you out more but take HDDP up on his offer since he has been on the receiving end of most of what the car’s systems can throw at you. Good Luck with it and keep us informed of progress.

 

Woody:

Good to see you back on the forum... Happy New Year... We'll catch-up via PM.

 

Very Cool of you. Thank you for the quick feedback. I am feeling a little less overwhelmed. To answer your questions, the car first started with the abs lights came on and then it would shut down giving me only limited power. I had to restart the car and it would run for a few minutes and then shut down again. Also, I'm not sure exactly how the modules burned out, when I took it in to Chrysler it would only go in limited torque power, and when I came in to pick it up they gave it back to me in limp home mode. As for the spoiler switch it was working fine when I took it in. They also put a huge gash on the roof all the way down to the metal. They tried to say that I had the car repainted at some time, but the only problem with that b------t, was I purchased the car brand new. The car is definitely inoperative, only going in limp home mode. Just from your responses I learned more than Chrysler could tell me. If you know don't the fuses play a part in the modules shorting out? Maybe they should have blown out or something at first. Sorry, I don't know much about cars, especially one like the Crossfire. As for the check engine light it has been on for quite a while, way before the abs lights, but the car always seemed to run fine.Thanks again guys. Leighanne

 

Thanks Derek, Happy New Year to you too! I've only been online occasionally over Christmas and was away in France this week so still catching up. Not had chance to do much on the Crossfire either since its had to have been in constant service.

 

You got a little mess on your hands... First question, can you or somebody in your family disconnect the positive battery cable for 20+ minutes and then re-connect it ?

 

Well my Limey friend ... You're in for a surprise in the next week... My Crossfire has gotten some more crazy track modifications... I've gotten the weight down to 1,168 kg, installing a wing that will produce 272 kg of down force at 177 kph and moved the battery to the rear of the car to help balance the car a bit more.


I've had some problems while gutting the wiring harness' out of the car... You can imagine. OOPS, didn't want to cut that wire !!!

 

hi, i've already tried that. thanks again.