Hello everyone.

A query on my own car now…

I had disconnected the battery whilst working on the car and I closed the passenger lock by hand (UK model). Now the passenger door lock does not function with the central locking fob or with the centre console switch. The pump runs for about 30 seconds after activating.

I have found this thread here that suggests that there could be a problem in the vacuum line but thought it strange that the malfunction occurred immediately after reattaching the battery.

https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...cking-fob.html

Is there anything else I should check first? Have disconnected and reconnected the battery to no avail. I wonder if I have inadvertently set it to manual function? Also does anyone know which of the three vacuum lines would operate the passenger door of a UK model?

Thanks so much all. This forum is a godsend considering the little idiosyncrasies of these cars.

 

The fact the pump runs for so long is your first clue. I have never experienced this, but apparently there is a sensor in the pump that detects the rise and fall in pressure/vacum to determine when all locks have completed moving. I have a bad pump here at the house, and I found the diaphragm in it that appears to be this mechanical sensor.

This implies to me that you have a lock that is defective/damage, a hose fallen off a lock somewhere, etc. I'd suspect the door you mentioned. WHY this would happen, I sure don't know, it should not be a problem. THe fact that all locks work but the one leads me to believe the pump is OK, and it's the lock in that door, disconnecting and reconnecting the battery, in my mind, is not related. Sounds 100% mechanical to me.

IF you can determine which line from the pump is that door, you can disconnect that line, plug the linen with you finger, and have a helper activate the locks. If the pumps acts normally and runs 2-3 seconds and all other locks work, then you know it is that one line or lock.

The manual claims that the passenger lock is operated by the same line as the trunk latch lock. Does the trunk REALLY lock and unlock? If not, that would also point to a big air leak in that line, caused by a goofy lock or broken air line.

 

I had a similar problem with the drivers door on my coupe, it was very slow to lock and unlock. I could hear air leaking inside the door while it was trying to function.

 

Hi everyone

Apologies I left this for a while because I had some exams but went back to it today.

I removed the passenger door card and unclipped the yellow hose. There is no pressure or vacuum here when activating the lock.

The control module in the boot has pressure from all three outlets when I disconnect the hoses and put my finger over them.

I assume that there is an air leak somewhere but it might be impossible to figure out where. Strangely I noticed that the fuel cap stays open at all times and that the trunk lid functions normally.

I wouldn’t mind living with it but the hazards keep flashing and running down the battery. I assume this is because the control module thinks that the door is open. I find this confusing because surely the door ajar/open is communicated by an electric switch and so should be independent? Any ideas appreciated…

 

Have you disconnected the alarm siren under the cowl, in front of the windshield? They short out with age and the flashing lights may be from that. This would drain the battery.

 

Hi Zerracer no I haven’t. Do you know if there is a link here on how to do it? Will use the search in the meantime….

 

Step 1. To access the module, the plastic cover under the windshield wipers must be partially removed. a. Put the hood in the completely upright position. b. Remove the 2 plastic cover caps ( If you still have them ). c. Remove the 13mm nuts by holding the wiper arms. d. Place the wiper arms in the upright position, gently rock the part on the knurled stud up and down until it comes free. If this doesn’t work, you will have to use a small puller. e. Remove the fastening screws, push down on the 2 metal harness clips to free them, cut the 2 tie wraps. ( you’ll need 2 new ones for the reinstall) f. Wiggle the cover free and disconnect the wiper spray heater connector. You can now position the cover out of the way. Step 2. Unplug the alarm module in the center. Clean your drains while you are in there.

 

The pneumatic line for the doors pass through the ribbed hose at the bottom of the door, these are flexed every time the door is opened or closed and as the hose is vinyl they harden and crack. All replacements should be urethane hose.
The passenger door and the hatch are on the same circuit at the pump. The gas cap cover is a separate circuit and only locks when the car is locked using the fob. When the car is driven it remains open, it opens when the car is unlocked. I would look for a leak at the point it enters the door from the car body. The hose could quite easily be replaced with a urethane hose or the leak fixed in the leak area with a urethane hose which is a tight fit over the vinyl hose. The original hose is incorporated with the wire loom so most of it is left in place.

 

Thanks Zeracer I will disconnect the siren regardless tomorrow.

Onehundred80, I suspected that the failure is in that conduit but I couldn’t figure out how to get it off. Do you have any ideas..?