Hello,

I'm having some trouble with my 05' SRT6 (135k miles). It's stranded in a parking lot currently because it won't crank or start, when I put in the key all the lights on the dash come on, but when turn I turn it to start there is no starter engaging. No engine codes, either.

So far, I have done the following:
- Tried to jumpstart the car
- Taken the battery out and had it tested at Autozone (it's fine)
- Removed the RCM and reflowed the problem areas and checked them with a multimeter
- Bought a new RCM and a spare CPS just in case
- Installed the new RCM

Based on what I have read on here, I think it is an issue with the starter (or its solenoid), or the pulse module. I'm not sure how to test those parts short of just replacing them, and I would really rather not replace the starter in a parking lot. Any other suggestions would be welcome.

 

Were there any early symptoms or just all at once? You say you bought a new RCM but did you install it? Be sure to check the battewry ground connection.

 

Could be the neutral safety switch.
Hold the key in the START position and slowly move the shift lever through the gears. See if that works.

 

check my thread! Same type of issue there’s a tutorial on how to diagnose the pcm and trouble shoot a few things

 

No symptoms before today. The first time I started the engine, it got up to a few hundred rpm and died within a second. Haven't heard the starter since then.

I did install the new RCM, after reflowing didn't change anything.

Ground connection looks clean, as does battery, no corrosion in sight.

 

Just tried this, but still nothing.

 

To check if the starter is good open the Pulse Module and close the starter relay. Stater should turn on.

 

Okay, this made the starter turn when the key was in the ON position. Does this mean I need a new Pulse Module or can it be repaired?

UPDATE - I read somewhere that putting the key in really fast and trying to start it might work and it did, but then promptly died. This happened a few times before all the lights on the dash went out and I needed to disconnect and reconnect the battery. Starting to think it might be SKREEM or ignition switch, any thoughts?

 

Hi, I have the same problem, no crank, 2005 automatic roadster. I was looking at the wiring diagrams in the service manual and it looks like if the key is in the on position, and you manually close the starter relay, the car should start, run for a few seconds, and die if it really is the SKREEM - if its not the SKREEM, then the car should run until you turn it off. Can anyone confirm that before I or UnaidedPizza try it?

 

There, that is essentially correct. If it is not the SKREEM, the car may still die after it runs a few seconds, as in the case of a weak/bad fuel pump or a throttle body that is insane.

The idea of manually closing the starter relay is simply to verify:
THe starter and starter solenoid are OK.
The battery is capable of providing enough current at sufficient voltage to power the starter and turn the engine over.
There is no severe corrosion/resistance in the battery-starter-block to chassis to battery loop.

If closing the starter relay spins the engine, you know you have an ECU or SKREEM or clutch/park/other interlock issue or an RCM issue.

 

I can hear the fuel pump turning on, but how do I check an "insane" throttle body?

 

I just had a similar issue as I've stated above, take a look at my thread. The trouble shooting listed there covers everything needed to test the rcm & pcm. I just replaced my starter & after following pizzas suggestions it in fact was that!

 

SOLVED - I sent my ECU to PrecisionECU and had them do a SKREEM delete, car now starts and runs, but I had to pull the alarm fuse as the sirens goes off while driving now.

 

Good news. Thanks for posting the solution.

 

That's because the Skreem also handles the keyless opening of the Crossfire and deactivates the Alarm when you open your Crossfire with the remote of the keyfob.
So I think that you now can't open your Crossfire with the keyfob, or?

 

Initially I followed their instructions online to not reinstall the SKREEM module, however I tried reinstalling it without the CAN wire attached, and the key fob began working again, as well as stopping the siren issue. So everything is back to normal.

 

That's excellent news. Thanks for keeping us posted. I think I have to do the same thing. Is the CAN cable the white cable coming from the the SKREEM in the picture on PrecisionECU website? Also, did you send both the ECU and the SKREEM to them? Thanks again for the info.
-Jerry

 

Yes, that is the CAN cable. The small black cable above it is labelled ANT, which I believe is what allows the key fob to still unlock the car.

Yes, I sent both the ECU and the SKREEM.

Good luck, and FYI be gentle with the old Chrysler plastic in the dash, I broke several places where the screws hold the dash together!

 

Sorry for belaboring the point, but I haven't been able to get to removing the SKREEM and ECU until tonight. After re-reading all of the posts, before I remove parts I just want to check if my symptoms still indicate a SKREEM problem. About 4 months ago, I pulled into my driveway and turned off the car. The next day I tried to start it, and got no crank - dash lights went on, windows worked, door locks worked, but no crank. After reading some of the suggestions, I left my key in for more than 30 seconds, the fans didn't go on, and still no crank. Tried the quick key thrust, nothing. Disconnected the negative terminal for a day, put the battery on a charger. Connected the battery again, the rear spoiler went up, still no crank. Tried to move the shifter out of park, won't move even with the key in the ON position (is that also a symptom of a bad SKREEM?) and the rear spoiler won't go down even when the key is in the on position. Starter and solenoid are good - jumped the pulse module. I do have rodent problems - the recent issue was they chewed through the windshield washer motor cable, and the reservoir sensors located under the battery (could they have chewed something else that is preventing starting?) I guess it can hurt removing the security program, but if I don't have to spend $450, I don't want to.
Thanks in advance,
-Jerry

 

That all don't sound like a Skreem problem. Because the the car would crank three times and run for seconds. Look at the RCM for bad solder points or defektive fuses. That the spoiler comes up after you charged the batterie could also be a singn that the batterie is dead.