Hi Guys,
I am located in Queensland, Australia. I have a 2004 Crossfire with 60xxxklm.
Recently the key fob stopped unlocking the vehicle. I have replaced the battery in the fob. When I press lock, it works and locks the vehicle. When I press unlock, the car lights blink but it doesn't unlock. I can use the key to unlock the driver door, this sets the alarm off. If I press lock on the fob, the alarm stops. The car starts and drives fine. If I reach over from inside the car and open the passenger door the alarm will go off and sometimes it will also unlock the boot.
The air pump in the boot seems okay.
hooked the car up to a scanner and got: CAB internal failure - low pressure feed valve 1. CAB internal failure - low pressure feed valve 2. Pressure sensor electrical error.
Any ideas?

 

CAB ? Not sure what you are talking about; Controller Anti-lock Brake? has nothing to do with the car locking/unlocking>
First place to start is disconnect the anti theft siren under the front windshield cowl. When you looked at the air pump in the truck did you clean all the electrical connections? It could be a simple broken leaking air hose.Disconnect the air lines at the pump and place your fingers over the holes if you can reach it and see if the pump develops air pressure and a vacuum when you use your FOB.
PS. clear those codes and see if they return after a short test drive.

 

Yep, I think the engine codes I had were unrelated.

When you use the unlocking button on the centre console, it works, it just doesn't work with the fob to unlock. Locking using the fob always works. Unlocking with the fob never works but always triggers the cars blinkers. Using the button the dash will work to both lock and unlock all doors as long as they started out unlocked.

I am assuming it can't be the electrical connections on the air pump or a leak in the hose because otherwise it wouldn't work with the button on the dash to unlock.

 

Do you have only one FOB? Do both Fobs fail to unlock the car? I would also clear all the codes you have found using the scan tool.
First thing to try is disconnect the battery for about 1 minute. This will reset many of the programed systems in the car. Reconnect the battery and maybe it will correct your FOB problem. Also wouldn't hurt a thing to check every fuse under the hood. Failing that I would remove the cowl under the windshield and disconnect the siren. The batteries within the siren can leak and contaminate the circuit board in the siren's anti-theft system causing all kinds of problems.
You can also download the service manual for free here on this website ( there is a link to another website) and the entire electrical system is laid out for you. service manual
Have you tried to re program your FOB? click here; program key
PS. The car will drive fine with the siren disconnected. My siren on the Limited has been disconnected for years with no problems. You just won't get an audio alarm.

 

I think the fault lies in the pump in the trunk, the fault codes would fit the functions of the pump.Maybe an electrical fault due to corrosion or a failed internal part.
Unplug it, take off its cover and see it work with it plugged back together, I think you can do this.

 

I have a similar problem with my 04 coupe. Drivers door will not lock with the fob, but mechanism works ok with the key.
Locking with fob, passenger locks, trunk locks, gas filler door locks.
Now when you open the drivers door, the siren goes off. So I have to unlock with fob before opening drivers door. The car thinks Im breaking into it.
Diagnosing. Pump cavity all dry, no evidence of water ever. Pump seems to run much longer (30 sec) after each lock/unlock event. So I thought maybe a leak at the drivers door.
Investigating. Air lines run from pump direct to gas filler door, and with a tee from another line to the trunk
Lines remaining go to passenger side, presumably to the passenger door, and then onward towards the cowl and a left turn under the dash to the drivers side.
Line at drivers side is visible with an inline connector if you remove the kick panel. Helluva time splitting that connector. Sucked on line to door, holds vacuum.
So I'm at an impasse. Will make do locking with key until I get another brainstorm. Any ideas welcome

 

Disconnect the battery for a minute to reset the modules. Several are involved.
What about the siren/alarm? Does it work loud or is it disconnected

 

Tnx I'll try reset by disconnecting battery. Yes siren is earsplitting loud.

 

30 seconds? Really? That tells you what is wrong.

Here is the thing: The pump runs to lock each lock. When each lock does lock (or unlock), it sends an electrical signal to the CLP-SSM. Once the CLP/SSM gets confirmation that all locks are either locked or unlocked, it stops running. If one lock never responds, the pump eventually gives up, to save your car battery and the pump's internal parts. There are two wires on the door lock cylinder. The blue one goes to ground when the door locks, the black one goes to ground when it unlocks. What that means is, there will be 5 to 12 volts on each of the wires when not grounded, the line must go close to zero volts to indicate a positive lock/unlock condition. Get in there, measure the voltage on both pins and turn the key from lock to unlock, both should chage state the same - zero on 'true' and 5-12 volts on 'false'.

Fix your door lock.

 

ONE MORE THING: THere are THREE wires, the BROWN one is the ground. Make sure that one is at zero volts at all times, that is, it's grounded.
If it is not grounded/zero volts, then there is no change of state being reported to the CLP/SSM.

Now, if the door is REALLY not locking or unlocking, I'd blame the mechanism. Your "manual mouth test" is not really a test - other than you seemed to prove that, no matter what the pump does, the lock does not move. I think your lock mechanism in the door is bad - that is, the pneumatic mechanism is bad.

 

Thanks for the good info I will investigate further and confirm the voltages. It seems to me however that if the car responds with both lock and unlock by key, ie the rest of the locks lock and unlock. Therefor the system must see those changes of state. . So far I have been able to resolve all the quirky issues with this crossfire (my second one) with the help of the forum.
This one is a teaser. I will post if I find something worthy of posting.

 

The drivers door has its own pneumatic circuit and is not connected to the passenger circuit or any other circuit.
The gas cap cover has its own circuit as well which is only activated when the car is locked from the outside by using the fob.
The passenger door and the lift gate share the same line.
The heavy black lines are the pneumatic lines, the other lines are wires.
This diagram is for the coupe only, the roadster has a pneumatic line for the console lock.


This photo shows the three pneumatic lines rising from the CLP/SSM on a coupe, the right hand line rising and going up behind the roof liner is going to the gas cap cover and the line rising from the Tee fitting on the passenger door line goes to the Lift Gate lock. The two lines disappearing to the left go to the passenger and drivers door locks.

 

Tnx for the diagram! Before I pull the driver's door card, I am going to put a vacuum/pressure gauge on the line at the junction connector located behind driver's kick panel. This should tell me if the pump is delivering vacuum/pressure to the driver's door. If yes, then on to the lock mechanism, if no, a line leak, or the pump, or the logic. I'll post my results.

 

So as promised I put a vacuum guage on the drivers door circuit at the kick panel feeding back to the pump. Nada, no vacuum, no pressure. Pump still runs too long.
Pulled the line drivers door line at the pump (the middle one) and put the vacuum guage directly to the pump. Viola, vacuum and pressure! So pump is good.
Ran an air line direct from the pump to the drivers door...........wait for it.......success! All locks functioning, pump just barely runs. Instant lock and unlock.
Conclusion, I have a leaking bad line running from the pump to the drivers door. Now will try and track down where the leak is. It is not in the door or the door pillar.
If I cant find it, I'll just run a new line.

blue test line running directly to drivers door

 

Did you check where the wires flex between door and body? Or is that what you meant by door pillar.

 

I take it that the blue line is urethane, the yellow lines are PVC and get brittle. Replace with urethane, you have to abandon most of the yellow line in place as it is wrapped in the wiring loom. The flex point in the rubber conduit between the door and A pillar is the usual point of fracture.
Good luck.

 

Hi roman, yes I meant the A pillar. I tapped in at the kick panel. I followed the yellow lines, from the pump they go up to the window area and head down to the floor of the passenger side behind the seat. The passenger line re-appears centre console footwell, and right turn to passenger door.
I can only presume the drive'rs line is under the console and then a left turn to the driver door.
I tried several routes for the new line. The only practical DIY route was to follow pump lines to passenger floor behind seat, then along the back wall tucked in under the upholstery, over the hump behind the console, under the drivers side back wall, then removing drivers trim plate, tucked in behind the carpet to the kick plate.
All done and working fine. The air blue air line I used, I got from amazon it is marked TPU0604 HFW002 6 x 4 mm. I had purchased it previously to run a lock release line to my lift. It fits perfectly tight over the yellow Crossfire air lines

finally back together at rest in my man cave.