I just bought a heavily used crossfire a week ago and it won't start at all now. I've re-soldered the RCM already and checked fuse #11 and I don't know what else it could be.

 

Does it have any codes? That would get us started. Please follow up.

 

It has a code for the secondary air injection system. The code is P0410.

I've read a lot about the SKREEM Module but I'd like to make sure it's definitely that before I take it on.

 

Will the doors lock and unlock with the key fob?
I repaired my P0410 with a new relay in my ECM. I would send it off to Tighed1 just to make sure it is good. Its only like $60.
If my memory serves me if it is the SKREEM Module your Fob will no longer open the doors.
I see with your previous repairs you have viewed the mystery no start thread.
There are three relays the middle three in the ECM that engage when you turn the ignition to the on position. One opens again in a few seconds that's the fuel relay.
I would disconnect the battery pull out the ECM remove the cover reconnect the battery have someone else put the car in the on position and watch those three middle relays.
If that is well. Then check your fuel pressure. You can get in line gauge off of amazon. If the fuel pressure is good. Then I would recommend the crank sensor next.
These things is just what I would do. I am sure were going to get many opinions. There are some really great people here with years and years of experience on these cars.
Remember if you do buy new sensors only get Bosh or MB except no substitutes.

 

You need to correct your post, RCM only not ECM.

 

Done thanks!

 

The FOB didn't unlock the doors when I got the car, and it started then. The FOB also didn't have a battery in it, and it hasn't started since I've put the battery in. I won't have time to mess with it until Monday morning due to work.

Another thread I've read about the SKREEM module suggested that it could be fixed by unplugging both the battery and the SKREEM module itself and leaving them unplugged for an hour or so. Do you think there's any legitimacy to that? I would love for it to be that simple.

After testing different things Monday, I'll probably just call my local Chrysler dealership as they service Crossfires. Is there anything else you'd suggest?

 

Yes my advise. First do not take it to the stealership! I would take it to a local European auto repair shop. Or do the repairs yourself. Remember you are riding mostly in an SLK320. Most Chrysler stealerships have gotten rid of the test equipment required to adequately repair our cars and MB won't go near it.
Please note our FOB take two batteries you stack them.
The SKREEM module does have to be programmed to the VIN I do know that. I also know there are some places you can send it off to be repaired. They are listed in a thread on here just search SKREEM.
Every little thing you notice about the car can help us determine what is wrong the more information the better.
After you turn the key to the run position how many times does the engine turn over.
Are you required to disconnect the battery and reconnect the battery and try again for it turn over/start again?
If it does run for how long?
All these answers matter. There are a lot of very good people here and they will do what they can to help you.

 

I would suggest a visit to the bank first and see about a large loan.😜

 

Resoldering the bad joints won't fix your RCM if one of the relays is going bad.
You can check the operation of the relays as Doc pointed out.
Or send me an email at tighed1@hotmail.com and I'll give you the details on having me refurbish your RCM. I redo bad solder joints, replace relays AND add the Me So Horny mod (horn works w/o the key).

 

UPDATE

I disconnected the battery and waited a while before reconnecting it.
While reconnecting it, the car made a sparkling noise from down and behind the engine area, sort of in the direction of the transmission.

I also tried to start it and it didn't do anything on the first try, second and third try it turned over but stopped immediately before the car would've started, and then nothing on any later attempts to start.
This leads me to believe it's not the SKREEM Module or the RCM, but I don't know what it could be. I appreciate any suggestions.

 

How old is your battery?
Have you had the starter itself checked or checked the connections to the starter?
There is a engine to chassis ground down on the drivers side near the area you think that sound came from. Take a look. If it is highly corroded I recommend running the new chassis ground that many others have ran on this forum. Just search chassis ground.
Let us know the answers to the above questions and that gets us a step closer.
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...le-engine.html
Above is the link to the additional chassis ground i spoke of.

 

That it turns over three times could be a Skreem issue. That's exactly how the immobilizer system works. But you have definitiv also a other problem, because the car wouldn't start for a second.
To exclude the Skreem module you could buy a test kit from my Skreemulator from Rudy, he then also programs the ECU to match with the Skreemulator.
Or you can send it to Needwings or SOS Diagnostic to have it checked and possibly repaired, if you want to go original.

 

UPDATE 10/12/21

I've taken the car to a mechanic and he's got someone who specializes in Mercedes/Chrysler electronics.
The mechanic has told me that he thinks it's the cars computer system. He told me that the computer system is non-replaceable as it's programmed to the particular car.

I'm trying to figure out what the price is if the car can still be fixed so I'm still wondering if he means the SKREEM module, PCM, or something else.
He's replaced the Relay Control Module entirely, but that only allowed the car to start once and run rough, but not start again.