Hello,
last week i bought a 2004 coupe with spoiler problems. The Spoiler up/down button does nothing and the LED never lights up or makes signal noises.
During the ride home once i was over ~120km/h the spoiler came up since then never came down. i checked fuse #20 and it
seems okay. i disconnected the negative part of the battery and unplugged the part where both limit switches come together.
from what i understood from the repair manual is that if the spoiler is fully up/down either wire #1 and #2 or #1 and #3 have to be connected (see pictures)
meaning the limit switch is pressed. i couldnt find any connections between those 3 wires. does that mean my limit switch for up position is messed up? or
did i measured it wrong?

Pictures:






Maybe i should mention the central locking pump doesnt start but i think these two problems dont have the same reason.

i would appreciate any form of help.

 

First things first; Do you have a good battery???? Please be certain that the battery is fresh as a weak battery causes problems with the wing.

I'm guessing but I think you will find one of those wires is a ground (probably #1) the other two are both 12v. One of the others, guess #2 is powered when the wing goes up and the other, #3 powers the wing down. The switches when activated stops the flow of electricity. You should not have power to the motor when the switch is activated and thus no continuity between any of the wires leading to the motor when the wing is fully up or down. The "limit" switches are located near a plastic wheel/gear which rotates as the wing goes up and down. There are knuckles on the gear which push on a metal arm and opens the switch. I have had my wing off to reseal it, but had no electrical problems. I'm just guessing on the power to the wing. I do not have the service manual available as I write this.

There may be a connection between the failure of the locking pump and the wing; Most likely is the plate the wing is attached to has lost it seal and is leaking water. That water finds a way to reach the bottom of the vehicle in the rear were the pump is located and cause the connections to corrode on the pump.
You really need to remove the wing from the car and get that sealed properly when reinstalled.

 

thank you for your reply zip439.
i checked the battery its 14V+ it seems fine. the spoiler is fully up as seen in the pictures but none of the
limit switches seem to be pressed. there is no water or water damage i can see.

 

Do you have any codes? Is the BAS/ESP light on? I would pull the CLP/SSM pump and take a good look at those connections.
The more information you can give us the better we can assist.
Let us know what you discover. We will do what we can to help.

 

thank you very much for your reply.

When i disconnect and reconnect the battery die BAS/ESP light comes up but goes away after moving the car a little bit.
i tried two different OBD2 Scanner but got 0 error codes. i just ordered a micropod 2 witech. its being delivered from china so it might take some time.
when it arrives and i cant find the problem with the scanner im gonna pull out the locking pump and check the inside.

 

Did you remove the wing from the car?? Have you physically inspected the gear I spoke of in my previous post? If you can not actually see the gear you can not see the switches and you do not know what positions the switches are in. You can not determine the switches positions via volt/ohm measurements because your system is not working correctly. You may have a problem with the BCM (Body Control Module). There may be something in the BAS/ESP system that is causing that light to go on, or the BAS/ESP module itself (CAB) could be giving you the problem.

Have tried to calibrate the steering angle sensor? There are instructions in the owners manual. After starting the car you move the steering wheel fully left then fully right and then back to center. Please read those instructions from the owners manual and give that a try. It may just clear the BAS/ESP warning light and if that clears your wing may work properly again.


The air pump/security module SSM/CLP has nothing to do with the BAS/ESP warning light. I only brought it up because you are already at the wing and the wing is known to have seal failure which can cause additional damage down under the trunk. NOW, is the time to re-seal the wing while you have access to it.

PS. Good luck with the DRB III emulator; If you can get that downloaded and working properly you will be much closer to getting this problem sorted out.

 

Hello, thanks for the replies zip and doc. i have a small update. i bought a new Varta 77AH 780A Battery to be 100% sure its not that. it didnt change anything. i also got my drb3 emulator which i think i managed to setup right. im not able to connect to the body control module or the central locking pump. i am getting "NO Response from BCM pin 1" and "NO Response from CLP pin 1". i recorded a short video of the emulator.

i am able to connect and read parts of the car like the engine but other parts fail. is it possible to screw up the setup that only half of the functions work? how should i proceed now?
@zip: the wing parts/gears look all good to me. there is also no visible water residue in the trunk area. but i have to say that i still have not unplugged the locking pump and opened it up.

 

I am not familar with the DRBIII emulator.
Ok so the battery is good thats one thing down.
Have you done the manual reset of the steering angle sensor by starting the car turning the wheel all the way left then right and back to center?
Without codes it is very hard to say what exactly is going on.
Wish I could help more.
Keep giving us feedback. I'm sure some one with the emulator will chime in and give you a hand.

 

I've had that happen to me with other modules with the DRB 3 emulator. Try disconnecting your battery for 30 minutes and try again. If that doesn't work then follow what the service manual says which will be either the modules are defective, clean/repair connectors etc.

 

What on earth does resetting the steering angle sensor have to do with the spoiler being stuck raised up??????? There is less of a chance to read codes when he can't even communicate with those two modules.

I really don't understand the point of some of your posts especially when you are guessing or simply giving "inaccurate tech advice" as someone else pointed out to you previously. Do you just to have to reply to just any post no matter what?

 

The BAS/ESP light comes on. Please refer to post #5. Thank you for your input and your attempts in helping the OP.

 

Sixkay, The problem is now to know why pin one does not communicate.
My first reaction to to be certain all pins on the underdash diagnostic connector is working correctly. There are specific instructions in the service manual to accomplish that.
The problem may be in the connection between the BCM and the CLP/SSM. You must get a copy of the wiring diagrams and try to ascertain the pins which connect those two modules.
The actual problem could be in the BCM and thus that is why you have no comms.
The service manual is down loadable from this forum.
You may try to contact "Toolman" via a personal message as he has a DRB III and is a good guy who has helped many here.

PS Congratulations on setting up the emulator; that in itself is no small task!

 

Yeah so and he says it comes on after he disconnects the battery and goes away after he moves the car a little bit which is perfectly normal after disconnecting the battery. So you either drive the car or move the steering wheel left to right to reset. Still has nothing to do with the spoiler staying up. Seriously how are you helping at all?

 

https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...ollection.html
this link will take you to the multitude of manuals available on this forum.

 

Half of your posts are the link to the manuals, do you have it saved in your clipboard?

No answer to my question how you are helping.

 

I feel sorry for anyone who comes here and chases the rabbits you throw out there.
PLEASE DO NOT WASTE TIME WITH ANY OF THIS FOOL'S ADVICE.

 

Sounds like this person is trying to help go down the check list and mention someone who will help. I don’t see you helping. Seems like you are nothing but negative. I’m here to learn. Not here others talk badly about people who are trying to be kind and figure out the issue together. If you are so good what do you recommend.

 

small update: today i tried to defrost my rear mirror for the first time and found out it doesnt work. fuses are ok. the cable from the mirror to the defroster module are also ok. so my spoiler and defroster dont work and when i got my crossfire the air tube for the rear was broken in the bending part of the rear. i read in another thread about a position sensor that detects if the latch is open or closed. could it be that my always says up? where can i locate this sensor. no clue how it should it look like.

 

update: replaced my bcm. now the drb3 emulator can communicate with with the bcm and clp.
i deleted all stored DTC from the BCM and after that i did the "system test - retract spoiler 1sec" and the spoiler went
down a little each time i did. after 4 times or so the spoiler was fully retracted! the spoiler up/down button is still dead.

i will find out how to measure if the switch is simply not connected to the bcm and will update again.

edit: i found out the drb3 emulator can test the led of the spoiler up/down button. the led lights up.