Unfortunately, the saga of my SKREEM-related issues persists, and after many bouts of troubleshooting, I'm out of ideas. This feels like it may a niche corner case, so I figured I'll share my experience so far (hopefully formatted in a useful fashion), in case it's of benefit to someone else in diagnosing their car, as well as in the hopes that someone might point out another possibility or something that was missed:

:::Summary experience and troubleshooting progression:::

-I leave the lights on overnight and the car battery dies. I determine that I am an idiot.

-Battery pack is used to jump the car. Cranks, engages, then dies.

-Installed new car battery. Issue persists; now clearly a SKREEM issue (engine starts and is promptly killed. This can be done twice before battery needs to be disconnected). At this point I figure the low voltage from the battery being drained may have damaged something sensitive in the SKREEM module. However, remote lock/unlock function still works, so the module is still functioning to some degree.

-Decided to rule out other possible issues before forking out for a new SKREEM module.

-Replaced batteries on keys (shouldn't matter) and tried each of three keys.

-Used

RFID detector

RFID detector

to determine that the sentry ring is at least attempting to interface with the chip when key is inserted.

-Pulled fuse #9 to rule out issue being caused by auxilary system on that circuit (even though it should not matter).

-Checked fuses (each and every one of them) with a multimeter and applied

DeoxIT

DeoxIT

to clean up any oxidation.

-Checked connections of RCM/PCM/ECM. Visually checked for damage and reconnected securely.

-Pulled apart the trunk and checked for moisture. Tiny amount was found in lowest part of the trunk, under the Central Locking Pump. Checked the Central Locking Pump; visually checking connections with a loupe, and then deoxidized. No moisture present and all connections look good.

-Checked Security System Module (Siemens module next to Central Locking Pump) in same fashion, and deoxidized connections. No moisture present, no visual damage on plug, and all internals look good as well.

-Ordered new SKREEM unit from NeedsWings. Waitlisted indeterminately by Fiat-Chrysler (queue frustration). Rob from NeedsWings is extremely responsive in addressing my questions and keeping me updated on order status. Finally received, installed (but did not swap out old sentry ring), and everything fires up. Am happy to have the problem resolved and the car running again.

-Car works fine for 3 days, but then will not start again. I opened up the dash and replaced the sentry ring for the new one that came with the SKREEM module from NeedsWings. Car fires right up. I put the interior back together and call it a day. Car fails again the very next day.

-I assume at this point that some cable/connection is being moved in some fashion when the dash is opened up and then closed, or from driving the car for a few days. I open up the dash again, ensure all connections are secure (3 to the SKREEM module, 1 on back of lock cylinder, and 1 on front of lock cyclinder to the left of ignition). I also snug up the ignition cylinder to the steering column and tighten it down. I remove some of the foam padding from behind the instrument cluster in case that's causing some kind of issue when everything is closed up. No luck; the issue still persists with or without the dash opened up.

Brothers and sisters of the Crossfire community, I'm now without any clue in how to proceed. What might I be missing, and what might explain the car working again for a few days, failing, then working, and now failing again?

 

So with the latest no start is it actually starting and then immediately dies? That is the SKREEM symptom.

Or is the starter now not turning the engine over?

 

The starter is turning the engine over, and the engine is starting, then killed.

 

Are you stating Rob can now get replacement Screems and keys?

 

No, I received mine months ago. I can't attest to the current state of ordering a SKREEM. Seems they are backed up until January 2020, from what I've been reading.

 

From the evidence it would appear that jumping the car with the battery pack caused the problem.
I would suggest that these not be used to start our cars, we should also avoid attaching cables to a battery on car with the engine running.
Is it possible that some failures are caused by faulty regulators on our cars? This would appear doubtful as people have replaced SKREEMs and solved their problem. Spikes in the voltage have been suspected to cause damage before.

 

Really good point. This would fit the bill in explaining how the problem progressed, and continues to persist. If damage was caused by a jumper pack, is there a typical suspect that it could be localized to, e.g. the ECU/RCM? Any ideas how I may be able to further troubleshoot without a DRB III scanner?

 

.


After the SKREEM was replaced, you might have a NEW PROBLEM. Did I miss where you RECENTLY (after the replaced skreem) pull (or try to pull) codes?


.

 

Good afternoon,

We at Mobile Diagnostics and Programming LLC, www.mdp-services.com have found a solution for the SKREEM module failures that is so common on these vehicles. We are able to repair the SKREEM modules. We have test vehicles that also allow us to test and validate repairs. All we would need is the Key, SKREEM and the ECM. Feel free to send me a private message or contact us through our website.

Thank you,
MDP

 

Who are you and where are you located or is this a secret?

 

Maybe he is speaking for Mobile Diagnostic Programming which is located Penellis Park, FL

https://mdp-services.com/programming-services

 

I wish there was a solution, and now that the car is under cover at a very competent shop, I could do this pretty easily. So who are you? Address, not just email address. Any reviews by anyone who has had this done? Credentials? I'm not of a mind to send this to a hacker in a truck with no fixed address. I' had one of those contact me and I ended up spending a lot of time explaining to him what the SKREEM does. Anyone less skeptical than me that tries this please post details.

I prefer to try to force FCA to meet their ethical obligations to their customers.

 

I sent a PM as he requested asking all these questions.
So far, no answer.
EDIT : I did get a reply, same as his updated info above.
Not cheap ( $450 ), but better than parting out a good car.

 

Good morning everyone,

Yes, my company is located in Pinellas Park , FL. Here is a link to my website. www.mdp-services.com. I have edited my post a few spots above to include more information as to who my company is and some of the services we provide.

Thanks,
MDP

 

Do you bypass the system or repair? If the screem has failed, are you saying you can make it work again? If this is legitimate, you will undoubtedly get quite a bit of business. Unfortunately since it is impossible to get new parts most are afraid to take a chance and part with what they have. Are you able to program virgin keys?

 

considering what they offer, seems as if we have a solution:

 

MDP many thanks for posting your capabilities, and helping Wolfstalker. He has not installed the components yet, but we are all optimistic it will go well.

 

This would be really a great service. Extends the life of our Crossfires after MB/FCA abandon our cars. Will be following this closely to see if results are as good as indicated.

 

WELL?
I sure hope this is not another dead end, but silence from Wolfstalker and MDP is not re-assuring. It stands to reason that, as cars age and this becomes more of an issue, SOMEONE is going to figure out a way to make money by providing a solution.

Let us hope that MDP is that someone.

 

Wolfstalker is posting in his own thread just today
How many Crossfire Owners need a new SKREEM unit?