I know people get a lot of crap for starting their own thread, but I am opposed to this tagging onto an old thread. The thread title is "Pulse module" but the current issue has nothing to do with the pulse module.
Also, when you piggyback onto a thread, the tendency is to describe your issue only party, because you think your issue is related to the OP.

I really prefer a new thread for every new trouble issue, altho I know that might not be practical.

 

Responding to all
The key fob locks and unlocks the vehicle so that system is good.
The shift leaver is back communicating to the instrument cluster. I unplugged c207 and reconnected and the display came back???? and stayed communicating.
In terms of the RCM being good, I replaced the fuel pump relay with one I purchased from NeedsWings.
I have watched the RCM as wife was performing attempted start and the fuel pump relay pulled in for fraction of second so believe PCM has control over it.
Manually activated fuel pump relay and listened to it run so circuit looks good.
Traction control relay output drives shift leaver mod and as the instrument cluster displays shifter position that circuit is verified.
Engine control relay output from RCM is on pin E5 and is 12 volts. To verify checked voltage on O2 sensor and its good.
Yes I'm confident RCM is good. Even the Horn works
Regarding Fan control module, the center wire RD/PK has 12 volts when Key "on".
I have been disconnecting the battery when I'm finished for the day, so every day when reconnected I try to start. Nothing has changed. Get no start attempt, just lights on instrument cluster as previously stated.
I started the thread on the Data link connector because the manual has placed a high value on the SCI condition as an indicator of Module health and thought it may be helpful to others doing troubleshooting.
If you deem inappropriate please relocate/delete as you think in the best interest of the form. You will not offend me in any way.
Now as far as the instrument cluster displaying the shifter position, do we know for sure that communication goes through the Transmission mod and not directly from shifter to instrument cluster?
Looking for a way to verify the Transmission control module is good to eliminate it and move on. According to the module troubleshooting section of the service manual, I measure 0 volts at the Data link connector, which according to the manual indicates a bad module, but reading and performing the steps listed ( I don't have a DRB ll tool) I believe it is misleading. I connected the plug C1 to the module when measuring voltage.
My 1968 Mustang is so much easier to work on, but this is progress.
Thanks everyone contributing.

 

1sweetride, Thanks for all that info. It is all helpful!
When starting the car there is a chip in the Fob that communicates with the SKREEM ( located behind the Instrument Cluster (IC). The ring around the stater switch where the key is inserted is the antenna:


It must be able to communicate with the SKREEM for the car to start.
SO Question; could you have disconnected either of those wires going to the SKREEM having been back behind the IC lately?
Have you replaced the FOB covers, or replaced the FOB batteries ? Some people have replaced the FOB case and in the process dislodged the "chip" that does the comms and you end up with a non start.
Trying to go thru all the possibilities before taking a guess you have a SKREEM problem. Ref post number #8 Without a good scan from something like the DRB III we are all doing a lot of troubleshooting / guessing.

 

To confirm one of your questions: When turned the ignition switch to "on" all the lights on the IC light and then in about 2 ~3 seconds the air bag light extinguishes. ( I can't report on the TPMS light as mine is disconnected and doesn't illuminate). With my foot on the brake I can move the auto selector through all the ranges and the light/indicator on the IC follows with the correct letter, P, R, N & D. When moving the gear selector in the Drive position as when manually selecting gears it will simple indicate D; It does not follow the 1,2,3 etc selection as when you are moving down the road.
With your foot off the brake you should not be able to move the selector out of Park. Hope that helps!

 

Hi 1Sweetride,
I have almost the exact same symptoms that you have described - 2005 a/t roadster limited, no crank, black square showing in the instrument cluster, RCM checked by swapping with one from a working crossfire. I'm about to remove the SLA from the car (tried spraying cleaner and vacuuming the area, but no joy) to clean it out. You mentioned that by unplugging and re-plugging in connector C207 you got your IC to show the shift position. Looking at the service manual, it mentions that C207 is in the passenger wheel well, but the service manual points to the engine compartment in fig. 2. Could you tell/describe where C207 is exactly located?
BTW, I have the micropod II DRB III clone - I can communicate with the IC, the TCM, and the SLA - both the SLA and the TCM communicate the correct position of the shift lever, but the IC just shows a black square. I can command the IC to enable or disable the shift position indicator, but that doesn't change the no crank condition. So, I'm thinking I have a problem with the PCM not getting the data from the TCM and SLA - maybe my C207 connector is the issue (crossed fingers). The codes were P0600 and P0720.
Thanks, sincerely
-Jerry

 

Jerry, the plug C207 is mounted passenger side floor where the Transmission control module/ Radio amplifier is. (service manual page 1901) The description is incorrect as my C207 was on the end of this 3 plug tower. It is a 4 pin unit. I had communication between Instrument cluster and shift leave until I disconnected the plug to verify voltage from the RCM for some reason after reconnecting, it stopped communicating. Just reconnecting it restored coms. Good luck.
To others reading this, went backwards a bit and rechecked the pulse module, I measure 12 volts on pins 1B, 2B, and 2A. I believe for the car to start, I need a low voltage on 2A from PCM. Is this correct??
I just have this feeling I'm missing something obvious, so checking fuses, and connecting my Autel AL619 to the Data link, but it is reporting no MIL or outstanding DTC.
Starting to think It might be smarter to get a couple of modules out of a boneyard to swap in

 

I have not replaced battery in the key fob, or performed any work on ignition switch. I have never had the 3 start SKREEM problem.

 

Thanks, so my dash is responding normal. Eliminating it as part of the problem.

 

1sweetrise, I think most of use agree with this "I just have this feeling I'm missing something obvious,"
However, several people have reported SKREEM problems without the typical 3 start attempts, then nothing as reported again in the above post #8

 

Hi 1Sweetride,
Thanks for the response. I'll check it this weekend.
-Jerry

 

GOOD NEWS
When I stated I felt like I was missing something obvious I went back a few steps and started again.

I posted that on the pulse module, pin 2B measured 12 volts (good)
I also measured 12 volts on pin 1B when key in start only.
I also measured 12 volts on pin 2A Sensor Gnd from PCM. There was no engine start.
I then removed 2A from the plug so as not damage PCM.
Then, I installed a 70 0hm resistor from pin 2A to gnd to pull it "low" (measured 5 volts)
When the key is moved to the "ON" position the engine cranks, but did not start. The fuel pump relay did not pull in.
I then manually activated the fuel pump, and tried the procedure again with no start. Can not explain why start happens when key is in the "on" position, so measured pin 1B (start from ignition) and it was 0 volts.
While measuring the "start from ignition" pin 1B I turned key to start and voltage went to 12 volts and engine started. WOW. Problem is starter motor was still engaged so shut it down immediately.
This time, reaching in the car to turn the key, when the engine started I removed the resistor on the pulse mod, released key to the on position, and engine continued to run. I got in the car and was able to shift through all transmission positions and all was fine.
Repeated the the procedure again and while engine running pulled off my cardboard wedge on the fuel pump relay and engine is still running.
I just need to explain why engine cranks when key is in the "on", unless this is normal with the sensor gnd pin 2A at 12 volts until key switch goes to start, then the PCM pulses 2A low for the start sequence.
I do remember that when the key is turned to "on" the fuel pump relay should pull in in anticipation for engine start and I do not have that. Will have to ponder a couple things and look forward to suggestions from the forum.

 

On a mercedes The starter runs until the engine starts even with the key relaxed back to the "on" position. Once the key is moved to start the sequence begins, relax the key back to the "on" position, and starter continues to run until car starts. This is normal for every Mercedes I have driven.

 

Update: started the car today and NO the fuel pump relay does not energize. My cardboard wedge must have stuck the relay armature on. Today I used a jumper to keep the engine going. Took the car for short trip to bring it up to operating temp and the transmission shifted up and down just fine.
I believe the following modules to be good: Transmission control, shift leaver, Skreem (key fob lock and unlock work) pulse module, and RCM.
Pulled all connectors from PCM and reseated to be sure, and no improvement.
Rechecked all fuses under the hood and all good.
Check engine light came on, Po161, O2 sensor2/2 heater circuit.
rechecked RCM fuse 2 and it is good.
Tried resetting the code but it will not erase.
Have run out of time for today.

 

Hi 1sweetride,
Sounds like you're making good progress. Thank you for updating us. I hope you're successful since I seem to have a similar problem. I just had a question/clarification on the terminology you're using - when you say pin 1A, do you mean pin 1 on pulse module A connector? Also, what do you mean when you say "used a jumper to keep the engine going" in your second post? A jumper from 2A to ground or something else?
Thanks, sincerely
Jerry

PS. I disconnected connector C207, and checked the continuity between it and the SLA connector. That all checked out. Next, I'll check the continuity between C207 and the PCM. The service manual has two errors with regards to the C207 connector- one is that the C207 connector is actually shown in figure 3 not 2, and in figure 3, C206 and C207 labels are swapped. I'm working on taking the TCM apart to see if any transmission fluid is in it - the wires feel oily, but that probably is from the electrical tape, but I want to be sure.

 

Jerry; When I said pin 1A , yes, pin 1, A connector of the pulse module. I have now connected a momentary contact switch for safer testing between the 70 ohm resistor on pulse mod pin 1A and grnd.
The jumper I installed to keep the engine going was across the fuel pump secondary circuit, pin 2 and 3 on RCM connector B.
I have since ran a speaker wire from the primary side of the fuel pump circuit RCM pin 3 connector E and Bat neg, inside the car to a volt meter to monitor if the PCM tries to turn the fuel pump on. So far, the PCM has not activated the fuel pump relay.
I tested the fuel pump relay circuit by applying o volts (gnd) through a 33 ohm resistor to pin 3 connector E with the key in the on position and the fuel pump relay works just fine.
So far I have 2 circuits of the PCM that are not working, engine start and fuel pump. Cannot figure out why when the engine does run under the use of jumpers.

 

Hi 1sweetride,
Thanks for the information. I wasn't able to try it this weekend, but I was able to find some comparable resistors to use (50 and 20 ohms, 1/4 watt). I was working on fixing my HVAC controller - replacing the potentiometer and modifying the case. Good luck with your troubleshooting.
Sincerely
-Jerry
PS. I noticed you mentioned you have/had a 68 mustang. I have a 67 mustang that I'm replacing the old points ignition with a solid state add on from C.J. Mustangs.

 

HI 1sweetride,
How is your troubleshooting going? I was able to spend some time on my car this weekend. When I perform the steps you do above, my car won't start - no joy. I unplugged all the connectors on the passenger's side interior plate under the glove compartment, TCM, C207 extra, sprayed contact cleaner and wiped all of them before I put them back together. I still have the black square where the shift position indicator should be - that's probably why my car still won't start. I think my next steps are to test the pins on the PCM, figure out how the CAN bus works, and take a part the SLA.
-Jerry


More details: I measured all of the pins on the RCM and pulse module with the ignition key in the on position. I measured that it takes 160mA to activate the relays in the RCM. I pulled down the fuel pump secondary relay coil using a 5 ohm resistor on pin 3E (pin 3, connector 3 on the RCM). This activates the fuel pump relay to apply 12V to pin RCM 3B, fuel pump power, but I didn't hear the fuel pump go. I bled the fuel rail schrader value, connected rcm 3E back to ground, watched the fuel pressure climb, and measured 60psi from the fuel pump. Fuel pump seems to be okay. I put a 5 ohm resistor on pulse module connector A, pin 2 and connected that to ground through a momentary switch. If I close the momentary switch nothing happens, but if a turn the key to start, and close the momentary switch simultaneously, the start motor engages (12V on PM 1B gets connected to PM 1F). Unfortunately, the car still doesn't start.
Couple of other things: to jump the connector pins, I opened the back panel on the connector. To protect the PCM, I pulled the socket out of the connector (RCM 3E or PM 2A). The space between the pin coming out of the RCM side connector and the plastic of the connector plug was very tight, I couldn't squeeze 16 gauge wire in there, but a 1/4 Watt resistor lead worked pretty well. Initially, I tried using a 100 ohm resistor to ground, but that didn't work - the relay didn't close, but it turned out that you need at least 160 mA to activate the relay (the spec sheet for the relay says 120 mA min, you used 70 ohms, so that works why your setup worked - 12V/70 ohm = 171mA ) The momentary switch I used is an old fashion remote start tool that I usually use to jump the relay in my 67 mustang.

 

I'm writing this not only to YOU two but to any who read it. You have both tagged onto a thread entitled "Pulse Module". You are cramming the thread with a back and forth discussion about, well, everything having to do with a no start/no crank.
You are welcome to continue, altho I may close the thread and remove some or all of your posts in a few days to make things cleaner.

I Know that members get all snotty and snark at those who start a new thread for an old issue. But I seldom do that. The thread you are in now has the two of you chasing your individual issues. This makes it WAY too much work to help either of you, which is why I have given up.

I'd suggest you each create a thread of your own, there are many of us here who can and will help, but you can't make it so hard on us - I know neither of you had that intent, but the thread is a nightmare and I have too much of a life to sit there and sift thru it all.

PLEASE start your own threads. If you put them in the wrong place, Gary or I will move them and leave an automatic re-direct, so you browser and bookmarks will still work.

Also, I commend anyone who grabs a meter and starts investigating, far too few understand how to do that or and even less understand that they MUST do that in a lot of cases.

It is far better for each of you to start your OWN thread with a GOOD title (none of this "Need Help" or "issue with car"). Make ONE post with what is wrong, add what you have tried, add what recent work migh have been done leading up to this failure. THEN we can go from there.

If someone jumps on you about "do a search before posting" or "don't start a new thread on a problem we've discussed", IGNORE THAT ASSHAT.

 

Hi Pizzaguy,
Yes, I was thinking I should start a new thread since it looks like my issue and 1sweetrides issue are different. Maybe the best thing to do is label posts by the symptoms instead of a guess at what the solution to the problem is since the path to the solution may go through many "solutions". I was thinking I'll title my new thread "no crank, no start, black square in the IC". That way it's not specific to a single component or system.
-Jerry

 

Hi pizzaguy do you know this person who resolders RCM's I may need his assistance I understand he replaces the relays and does all soldering for about $50 bucks
Thank you Ufarley