Hey Folks,


Thought I would do a quick write-up on a recent issue and fix I've done to my car. There had been talk about similar issues on the forum, a lot of folks suggesting fixes, then nothing to be heard of an outcome.


This week I had random issues with the alarm going off sporadically, initially I thought it could be an bad door switch or trunk latch, but then again, as of this year my car only has 13,007mi and vibration/bad/loose contact issues shouldn't be showing up on a car with low mileage. A quick search of the symptom began to go down the worm hole of SKREEM module issues and no real outcome or fix. With a few folks suggesting to replace the alarm siren, and others looking towards the SKREEM system..


A few nights ago, I take the recycling out, and notice the 4ways, and fog lights randomly flashing, as it would be if the alarm was set off, but with no siren. A quick unplug of fuse 9 solved the issue temporarily, but I wasn't able to lock all the doors.


A quick search indicated that there are issues with the internal batteries inside the siren leaking, and that MB had an updated part which now included a lock/unlock audible chirp. Obviously with leaking batteries inside the module, and our cars creeping up in age, this will be an issue that all Xfires will encounter. Especially since the alarm module communicates thru can bus, and can cause a lot of random gremlins to show up even if not directly related to the alarm system.


The new part from MB is 2198203226, and this includes the Door lock/unlock chirp. The part is actually quite reasonable from the MB dealer here in Canada, even more so since I have an account with them. It came to around $190 after TX. This is the only time other then the IC pump that I had to forcefully replace a part on the car.


Install was a breeze, all you need is a Nylock M8 nut for the new siren, T20 screwdriver to remove the lower windshield valance (good time to clean out the rain gutters as well), and to make life much easier get yourself a mini wiper arm puller.
You will see a Security torx on the original siren, just remove the siren bracket, and unplug from car. Just clamp the bracket in a vise and give the siren a good twist, and it will come loose, enough that you can hand unthread it.


Unplug old siren, plug in new.. NO PROGRAMMING IS REQUIRED (there was some talk of this floating around, but its all fluff), and your good to go again.


I dissected the old siren to see how bad things were. Honestly, I know folks have been replacing the cells and re-sealing the box.. But honestly once the acid leaks into the board, and gets between the layers, its only a matter of time before random odd issues occur. Plus I really wanted the door lock/unlock chime.


Also keep in mind, my car has been stored in the garage for all of its life with me (not climate controlled, but I would consider it decently pampered).. Those who live in warmer climates will most definitely see worst leakage and probably more extreme corrosion.


There is a blown component on the board as well, and some serious corrosion in the center on a few of the transistors.


Honestly I would recommend folks to replace the siren before issues happen, there is a minor risk of this module being defective and causing damage to other can bus modules in the car. And honestly I would never expect sealed Ni-MH batteries to last more then 10yrs in the hard thermal environment of a car.


There are also known issues with water ingress into the trunk where the door lock vacuum pump module is, so keep this in mind as well when troubleshooting alarm issues.

 

Hello all and especially the helpful fellow in Bradford (Sik Srt-6), Ontario:
Thank goodness for this forum!!
Do I have a new siren in my future?
Could there be other issues that should be checked when the module is replaced?
Could my "random gremlins" be all due to "the internal batteries inside the siren leaking"?

Sequence of events:

• One week ago, my 2004 Coupe sat in direct sunlight for about 2 hours on a 30 degree C day.
• When we approached, we noticed the rear red lights flashing.
• Seconds later the alarm went off.
• The hubunit pressed various buttons on the remote but the alarm continued.
• He put the key in the ignition switch and started the car. The alarm screamed on.
• He dug out and frantically searched the manual. The alarm stopped on its own before he got through the index.
• When we got in and drove away we noticed the heat/cool fan would not work at any speed.
• He checked the manual to see what else is on that fuse.
• Before we could pull over and search for the fuse, the fan (and air conditioning) came on. It has worked fine ever since.
• The alarm did not go off for several more days but later in the week I was advised by a neighbour that I had "left the lights on". When I checked, it was not the lights or the four ways, Instead, the fog lights, side markers and rear reds were flashing, as described here by others. Unlocking and locking the door solved the problem on that occasion.
• Yesterday, after sitting out for hours on another hot day (about 28C), the aforementioned lights were flashing again and the alarm went off a couple of times. But this time, it quit when the hubunit inserted the key in the door and turned it one way or the other. He had to do that a couple more times over the next few hours.
• It seems that when the car sits in bright sunlight the lights start flashing a few seconds to a few minutes after being locked with the remote AND, for even more fun, the car automatically locks itself if it is left unlocked, (again, if it is in hot sunlight).
• Parked in a cooler place the problems mostly disappear.

Thanks again!
Crossfire Maggie

 

Remove the wipers an cowl , then unplug the alarm siren. The part of , the doors locking themselves , that different. It could be the car is fine an the "hubunit" needs repaired...rotflmao....

 

The siren can be replaced with one of at least two sirens that beep. CLICK


The cowl removal is covered in this PDF. CLICK


Battery replacement in the siren if it is not damaged. CLICK

 

Re: "It could be the car is fine and the "hubunit" needs to be repaired"
Ha; too good!
If I had not witnessed the phantom self-locking myself, I might have thought he had lost some of his marbles.
M

 

Yes replacing the siren module will most likely resolve your issues. Order the new part number posted above, and replace.


I cannot comment on the fact that your AC blower fan is delayed, but if the blower unit is on the Can bus line (haven't looked in the wiring diagrams), there is a possibility that the module is causing issues with the communication on the Can bus.

 

Thnx!!
Will do.
Maggie

 

This also sounds like it could be the module in the lower trunk/hatch. See if there is water in the bay below the Styrofoam pieces down there. A member suggested sliding a paper down past the Styrofoam, if it comes up wet you have water in that module. Hope it isn't! Remember, the siren does not cause the lights to flash, a wet module definitely does.

.

 

I agree with GG, the locking of the doors and flashing lights is solely the result of the CLP/SSM in the trunk being at fault, it also controls the siren if the siren is in good working order.
The CLP/SSM gets ruined when it gets wet and all sorts of weird things happen.

Disconnect the siren and see what problems remain. If you have the same problems then the siren is OK.

 

Hello GG:
"This also sounds like it could be the module in the lower trunk/hatch . . . "
Below the Styrofoam?
I have never noticed anything like that in the trunk.
I will search on Yt and see if there is a vid and try the paper test.
Thnx!
Maggie

 

Hi Maggie, the other alternative is to remove all the trim areound the hatch (inside the hatch area) and that involves a lot of work. The lower 2 (left and right) styrofoam chunks in the lower hatch can be taken out. Lower right area is a foam wrapped module, that is the CLP/SSM module. If it got submerged, your going to have multiple problems. As suggested, tale a paper sheet and slide it between the Styrofoam and body, in a couple places, and see if it comes up wet. If so, you'll have some work to do. You can also try to cut a couple slices in the rubber plugs under the rear where that cavity is located in the rear. Those lead right into that hatch bin below the foam inserts where the tire kit and jack is. Good luck getting to the answers you need!

.

 

[QUOTE=GraphiteGhost;906698] Hi Maggie,
Tthe other alternative is to remove all the trim areound the hatch (inside the hatch area) and that involves a lot of work. . . Good luck getting to the answers you need!

Hello GG:
In a word: WoWzer!
I have a really capable young mechanic and will provide your good guidance to him.
Thanks to you and others who replied,
CM

 

............................

 

Wrong Dave, my 08 has TWO rubber plugs under the Styrofoam blocks. One on the drivers side, another on the passenger side. I cut an "X" into the two so if any water finds its way there, it'll drip out of those large rubber plugs. Don't know about previous years but I doubt they would have modified the bay area on the 08 for two plugs. Tell you what I'll do, I'll crawl under my car tomorrow and see if in fact there are 2 or only 1. Hows that?

.

 

..........................................

 

Dave, I said they were UNDER the Styrofoam, please reread them again ( 08 has TWO rubber plugs under the Styrofoam blocks )?

.

 

............................

 

The sentence before the one you highlighted ( You can also try to cut a couple slices in the rubber plugs under the rear where that cavity is located in the rear ) refers to cutting the rubber plugs under the car. If your lost in this then maybe Maggie isn't. I know the module is in the right side, when Maggie opens it up she'll see that as well. Comprende?

.

 

OK kids, stop fussing and eat your porridge

 

I give up entirely.

I shall erase all my posts on this matter, no matter what I say the sentence that is wrong is ignored by GG.