I've already sort of started this thread here on the issue.

I recently bought a '05 Crossfire auto that won't start. When the battery is fully charged, and cable recently reconnected, it will initially turnover once or twice in a few tries. I do sometimes hear the solenoid clicking for the starter, but it doesn't turnover. I always hear the fuel pump prime the lines.

If the problem was just the Skreem, I think the engine would turnover on the first 3 attempts, and it doesn't.

If the problem was the key transponder, I think I'd get more than one or two engine turnover attempts in a few tries. I still wanted a nice and new keyfob, so I ordered one from Rob.

If the problem was the RCM, wouldn't I get the crazy fan and no attempt at turnover?

I'm starting to suspect it's a dead starter, since on some attempts where it doesn't even initiate the starter I hear clicking. Are there any other solenoids that would be clicking when I turn the key (fuel pump)? Is there an easy method to jump the starter and get it to turnover the engine? This could eliminate the starter as the culprit pretty quickly. I've been searching for a method, and will continue.

Below is a video I took of my typical no-start when the battery is fully charged and having recently reconnected the battery. By the way, the starter never attempts to turnover the engine if I've already unsuccessfully tried 4 or 5 times.

 

When that same thing happened to me I got a new battery in fob and resync ed key, and rehooked battery then started up, no problem since.

Don't remember process of resyncing key, found it on forum somewhere.
If I remember right, if battery is out of fob for a certain amount of time (seconds), need to resync key.

Everything else appear to be working as it should?
Good range for unlocking / locking door with fob?
Does it feel like the skicky key mod has been done?

 

Subscribed; welcome back Anthony. Good luck with finding all the pieces you need, and firing it up.

 

I think that the method for jump-starting the charger is simply shorting the connection between ground and hot with a screwdriver. You can also purchase a push-botton shorting setup. At your own risk, obviously.

If you think that it is your starter is refusing to spin, the test is to smack it with a ball peen hammer while someone is turning the key.

 

OK , been thinking, what would I do? Pull the RCM , it takes 2 people , when starter engages ,does the engine control relay function? Can you manually engage the relay to get the engine to turn over? Also there's a way to test the starter (8F-33) in the manual. You know the starter is engaging , even though, intermittently. Remove an replace (clean) the connection on the starter (+ an -). Check continuity on the solenoid. Here's where I stop, with what I see. Hope it helps, let us know.

 

The fob is in very bad condition and the remote function is not working. I don't have any experience with the sticky key fix.

Thanks

I was hoping for a safer way, haha. I did try applying 12v to the wire that connects to Pin 1F of the pulse module, but it didn't crank over. Actually, the pulse module wasn't getting 12v on Pin 1B either from the ignition, which I suppose it why it was send power through Pin 1F. However, the pulse module in the car seems to have "04 Chr M/T" written on it. So it might not even be the correct module, since mine's an auto. WTH?

I hear clicking on the RCM only after I reconnect the battery cable and only for 1 or 2 times and it's gone. I tried sending power to the starter solenoid using the wire that connects to pin 1F of the pulse module, but it didn't crank.


Thanks for everyone's suggestions, and I'll be downloading the service manual tonight. I think it's time to educate myself on how the systems work in these cars and how to read the damn diagrams. I'm currently confused at best when reading them.

 

You are correct grip, 12v on 1F of the pulse module SHOULD make the starter engage :

 

I was re-reading the other thread ; a lot of rust an water. What's disconnected at this time? I agree with you an George , in supplying 12v after the pulse module, i.e. straight wiring, should engage the starter. I'm following... help if I can. Let's get it running...

 

"You are correct grip, 12v on 1F of the pulse module SHOULD make the starter engage :"

So, power to the starter doesn't work. The starter is dumb, if electricity directly to the solenoid doesn't go vrrm vrrm, it's the starter. But make sure you are getting it to the starter. The wires could be rusted to mush, the connectors could be loose or crusty.

Edit "make sure you are getting electricity through the starter." You need a good ground and hot.

 

That -8900 on the dash means you are overdue for an oil change, 8900 overdue, I think.

Edit: that can't be right.

 

Hey man, that looks like a salvage yard marking. I don't know the history of your car, but it looks like someone might have bought this piece from a salvage yard to put it in the car. I can't speak to whether that M/T should work perfectly in your Auto car.

 

If 12v on 1F of the PM does not at least make the solenoid click, then bad wiring or bad solenoid.

 

The new key arrived today, so I'll try that this evening when I get home. After that I'll try sending voltage to the starter again. As for the oil, it didn't look all that bad. I think the PO just disregarded resetting the oil service reminder. As for the pulse module, I agree on both. I might see if I can temporarily swap it with a local friend that also has a SRT6.

Another strange thing I noticed with the car is that it key fob won't function remotely. I've swapped the batteries, and confirmed at an autoparts store that it's sending out a signal, but it won't work. I've done the learning process half a dozen time to no avail. (click lock or unlock twice on the remote, jump in the car, insert key, turn key to run - all within 30 seconds). Hopefully the new key will work this evening.

 

New key, same problem. Also, the car won't accept this key either (keyless operation that is). I even tried inserting the key first, and then pressing a button twice, but no bueno. I'm going to swap the car battery and try to program the key again. That "MT" salvage yard pulse module is looking suspect, but I also think the starter or solenoid is bad.

 

UPDATE:

I ran 12V though the wire that runs from Pin 1F and the starter and the car cranked over. I'm not sure why it didn't work last time, but it works now. I also tested and I'm getting voltage to the coils and CPS. I don't know the fuel pressure, but I did confirm the fuel pump is running by draining fuel fuel pressure from the shrader valve and seeing it return with a key cycle.

I really need a code reader that will read the deep hidden codes that Torque doesn't pull. If the Skreem was dead, would I be getting a code of some sort or light on the dash? What do you guys use to pull codes that don't trigger the CEL? I'd rather not mess with MG Star DAS if at all possible. It's going to be 3-4 weeks before I can get a trustworthy shop in Nashville to diagnose the car.

 

I was looking up , rentals for a DRBlll today (yes, I know about the card an cable). Autozone popped up on a goggle search an I give them a call. The manager looked thur his "loan a tool" inventory , said they didn't have one, but was confident they had a scanner that would do almost all the functions, I inquired about. Said he was confident it would even reset airbag lights. Give it shot,, I won't be able to get back to them till Wednesday. Tell us what you find out or I will reply back,, when I go.

 

I broke down and ordered a Skreem module from Rob today. I'll report back once it's installed.

 

The battery in the FOB has zero to do with starting the car. The battery only powers the FOB to send/RX door lock/unlock signals. Your fix was from unhooking the battery and rebooking.

 

Never seeing a video of a SKREEM not reading the FOB chip this is how I would have visioned it. How many FOBs do you have? All of them act the same?

 

I've got a brand new key from Rob and an old key. Neither key will take programming to remotely operate the doors, and both perform identically.