okay, so just happened upon the SKREEM threads and luckily upon the 'remove fuse #9 remedy" to keep me from having to tow it home (although not sure how I would have even gotten a tow out of the parking garage I was parked in at the time... anyway)... CF is home in my garage now without Fuse #9 in place.


Question is... if I am not concerned with my alarm system (siren has been turned off since I bought it 4 yrs ago anyway), the key fob functioning (will just deal with unlocking it manually) or the interior lights (not that functional or bright anyway and always have my phone which I can light whatever I need to see if it's dark out)... what is the harm in simply leaving Fuse #9 out permanently so I don't have to deal with the replacement of the SKREEM module? (Or trying to find a technician who has experience with a Crossfire). Any downsides other than those I've mentioned???


Thanks for potentially developing a work around to having to inform my husband that we need to take my baby to a dealership and drop a sizable check to keep me happy.


Thanks for any insight.

 

That sounds simple, too simple in fact.
Explain what caused you removed fuse #9 please.

 

Thanks for the response Onehundred80,

Had the "hmm my key fob isn't unlocking my car, that's weird, fob battery must have died" moment yesterday, followed by the "no problem, I'll just go old school and use the actual key part in the door", followed by the "oh crap, now my car alarm NOT siren (cause the actual siren is not hooked up) but the crackly, scratchy sound accompanied by all my lights flashing is happening right here at lunch time in my employment parking deck and everyone is looking at me) moment, then swiftly followed by the "Jeesh! Let me just get in the damn car and put the key in the ignition so it turns off thought". Then the start the car... Car dies... "That was weird" moment, rinse and repeat and then the "my car won't even crank experience", which concluded with the text to my husband saying... "Um... Got a second? I think something is wrong with my car".

Did all the checks most others have done in this situation (which I learned after getting home and pouring over the forums) and finally realized we'd give the Fuse 9 option a try since there really was NO chance of having it towed as I was parked on the 4th level of the parking deck and there was definitely not enough clearance to get a tow truck in there so I was just desperate to get it started and out (and home if I could). Spot on removing Fuse #9...started like a champ and home we are with no other issues I can detect ( other that those mentioned previously by leaving Fuse #9 out, so... Can I just leave it out and forgo the convenience of a remote key, alarm and interior light until I really want to tackle what I'm pretty sure seems to be a SKREEM issue or am I tempting fate for something else to pop up by delaying the work?

Really appreciate the insight... Love my CF and would hate to cause it addition issues by delaying but I'm totally cool with the things mentioned if it won't cause any other issues.

 

No siren hooked up? That scratchy sound is the siren when it fails, look up 'alarm? on crack.' The alarm is the siren. Pull out fuse #9 and the siren/alarm will not work when told to by the SKREEM, but the lights will flash. Door locking/unlocking is done with the CLP/SSM in the trunk being actuated by the fob, if both doors, hatch and gas cap cover unlock with the key then the pump is working.
Car not starting and then starting sounds like an intermittent RCM and or SKREEM problem.
We have smarter people here on this kind of subject so I'm probably wrong here somewhere.

 

This is really interesting! Apparently I missed noting this from somewhere else in The Forum. Thanks!

 

Same here, missed information on pulling fuse #9. I have had to replace the SKREEM Module 2 times on my convertible and once on my coupe.


Thanks for posting

 

You may have several issues. See post #4. Using a DRB II diagnostic code reader see what codes are pulled. GET THE EXACT NUMBERED CODE!!! not some goofy explanation like "It's the air pump" Some of those suggested in 180's post #4 are inexpensive; others can get real pricie. Get the codes and go from there.
As to running without the fuse 9, seems to me it is just a matter of time before your stranded. Check the rear for water around the locking pump. You all had a lot of rain the past few days and your problem may be there.

 

Thanks for the insight Onehundred80. So, drove it in this morning to see if this "fix" (leaving out fuse #9) might just give me some time to decide what I really feel might be going on. both locks and trunk unlock with key, so thinking the pump must be working. Obviously fob is out of commission but I can deal with that.


Sorry for the confusion, I really didn't use great language in describing that the alarm is not hooked up, so the 'siren' part of the alarm doesn't work (like you said "failed"), was like that when I bought it and I really don't drive it or leave it parked in areas I would feel I'd need the alarm, typically either in my garage or in our employee parking deck or another family members driveway (I've always been cool that the inconvenience of being 'that' person whose god awful siren is going off because it got bumped or there was a loud noise that set it off is actually deterring someone from trying to steal it so I never tried to have it corrected). So, yes, it did do the 'failed' alarm crackly scratchy thing trying to sound during all this and also the lights flashing but now that the #9 fuse is out, seems to be good. Gas cap good also, had to get gas this morning and no issues there either. Seems like I need to just research, diagnose, more research, and try to find someone knowledgeable who can then take what I feel it's displaying symptoms of (SKREEM, RCM, CLP/SSM...) and run with that.


Thanks again for the insight and I'll post back with anything I experience in the time the fuse if out as well as what it ends up being just in case it helps anyone else the way the other posts helped me.


Thanks!!!

 

Welcome to forum.

You could try changing battery in fob, then if that doesn't work try to resync.

To synchronize, aim the transmitter eye at the vehicle and briefly
press either the Lock or the Unlock button twice. Within
approximately 30 seconds, insert the key in the ignition
and turn it to the ON/RUN position (just the position no need to start)

I was still having a issue so I unhooked battery, sat 15 min then rehooked car battery, then it worked.

Nothing worse than being 3.5 hours away from home in a hotel parking lot with a car acting up

 

Thanks zip439, good stuff...


I am trying to find a DRB II code reader to do just that. read quite a bit about it needing to have the multiplexer cable so trying to make sure I don't just run out and have it scanned and get back not what will be helpful.


Read through the posts about the water issue with the locking pump, we did have a LOT of water on Sunday and while I don't usually drive it under those conditions, that day I had to and did. I don't remember going through any standing water but still want to check that.


Also forgot to mention in all the mayhem the day this happened, the first thing we did was run to Walgreens in my husbands truck to get new batteries for the fob... no luck... didn't make a difference but hey, I have new batteries now.


I think we do need to at last revisit syncing the fob again though, we were working on a pretty sparse landscape of resources, only phone to try to pull stuff up, no tools really to speak of except what my husband had on his work truck and dark out by that point. Also not to mention all the well meaning folks coming out of my place of employment (there are over 3000 who work in that building) wanting to 'help' which only frustrated my husband more because they all thought they knew what it could be... now that it's home and we can sit and run through "do this, did it do this? okay, do this" scenarios, we may be able to pin point a bit better as well as get a code that will help also.


Thanks for the feedback!!!!

 

Haha, know how he feels.
Check the blinker fluid.
Was she wearing red, did outfit match car.
Mb sensors on interior judge the person to match the car.
Hahahahaha

My hatch was leaking at the rubber boot connects between the hatch and the car body, I pulled the boot from the car body, put some clear silicon on it and re attached then cleaned excess silicone that squeezed out, I caught mine before water got very far, I also pulled the trim pieces from the roof on top and ran a bead of silicone on the body panel joints under the trim.
it is pretty easy to check if moisture is down there, if not good, but putting alittle silicone on that boot might be good to make sure it will not leak later.

And thank you for giving us as much info as you can.
Usually we don't get but 10% of the info you gave.

 

Okay, so just keeping this thread updated with my progress... Day 2 of driving with the Fuse 9 removed and no issues other than those deactivated functions previously mentioned (alarm, key fob, and interior lighting). Granted I only drive 6 miles each way to work so I'm taking my chances but not a huge risk if it lets me sit, I can call someone.


Have determined no water leaking in the rear so I'm ruling that out as a potential cause of my initial issue. Still thinking this is isolated to the SKREEM so continuing to troubleshoot until I'm positive but at least I'm not grounded with no car until that happens and we are able to get it resolved.


Will continue to update just in case my experience assists anyone else. I think I'm out here in no man's land by leaving out the fuse but we'll see what happens and maybe it helps someone with what seems to me (now) is a pretty common occurrence (SKREEM failure) and looks to put folks without their CF until dealerships/garages can get the replacement module and work on the vehicle (weeks from what I've been reading). Maybe my renegade actions will help someone at least be able to make the decision of whether leaving out the fuse is the right one for them in the meantime until they can get theirs fixed.


stay tuned...

 

If I had this problem the first thing I would do is uncover the siren which is situated under the cowl in front of the windshield and disconnect it. Unplugging it does nothing except stop it working.
Then I would have a car that is basically back to normal. Disconnecting the battery when doing this may help reset the cars electrical system
When removing the cowl there is no need to disconnect any of the wires attached to the windshield washer nozzles. Then replace the cowl and the fuse #9.

If the batteries are out of the fob for too long or the batteries have failed while in the fob the fob will need to be re synced to the SKREEM, as removing fuse #9 does not affect the fob.
The method to reset the fob is in this list of the re settable Crossfire features. CLICK

 

I can not open the link on my phone, is that the same process as I posted the other day?

 

Good stuff onehundred80, going to print that info for the siren and work on that tonight with my husband.


Thanks for the insight into disconnecting the siren which (for me at least since I've owned this vehicle) has never worked anyway and I'm not looking to make it work in the future.


Thanks!!!

 

A simpler method that seems to work.

 

pictures no loady Dave

 

No pictures attached actually.
But if you want to know what I meant here it is, CLICK, you have seen it before though, others I guess may have not.
The procedure to reset the Fob is toward the bottom of the list.

 

Thank you for the link to the procedures! Not kidding, I think I was more excited about the procedure for how to disable the seat belt chime than the key fob!!!


Reason, we have a fairly long driveway and I stop and get mail when I pull in and then really don't want to put my seat belt back on in my own driveway (pretty sure I'm not going to get into a huge accident with anyone where it would be necessary) but for the two years we've lived in this house have either yelled numerous times to my car "I KNOW, I KNOW, SHUT UP!!!" because the stupid chime will ding the entire way to the garage OR put my seat belt back on after getting the mail just to not have to hear it....


THANK YOU, I'm almost more happy to do this fix than the whole SKREEM issue I'm dealing with! Doesn't take much

 

Just to be certain did you determine this by removing the trunk liner and removing the foam from around the locking module?

We have had several reports of "trunk is dry" to later dig into the underside to find standing water around the module.