I just bought my 2nd Crossfire. I have a 2004 Crossfire with 71k miles. The previous owner replaced the computer, RCM and SKREEM and ignition switch troubleshooting to get the car to run better. He had everything working except the door chime chimed when ever driver's door was open and overhead lights didn't come on without manually turning them on.


My issue started after fixing 1 of the two key fobs and replaced battery in the other. Both key fobs worked all functions. I triggered the panic button. The lights flashed as they should but the horn didn't sound. The car started for one second then died. On second attempt to start nothing. All instrument lights work etc. But nothing happens when trying to start the car except the sound of relay in the RCM box next the computer and a sound from under the air intact. I don't know what that is? I wonder if it is the crankshaft sensor that I have read about possibly being bad.


I have checked all fuses, my battery is new, I inspected the RCM looking at the 3 solders that I have read about. It looked good. I have hit the key fob unlock button twice prior to trying to start and nothing but the sound of a relay clicking. The only thing that has any response is disconnecting the positive battery lead and grounding to negative lead. This at least reset something letting the starter to turn over the engine and ran for a second then died. Next turn of the key back to nothing but the sound of relay near RCM and sound of a click under the air intake. Now only one key fob well unlock the car. Both key fobs red light comes on when pressing button. I feel that the key fobs aren't synched with the car and it acts like an auto kill feature that many alarms have. I read in the owners manual that the car should start even with the panic alarm going off so what is the deal with the problem of the car doing this?


I read about SKREEM being a problem but don't understand what it is. I haven't tried the 3 hour ignition switch on with a battery charger on and resetting the SKREEM. I've read that getting new keys and SKREEM might fix it except that sounds expensive.


What are the steps to follow to best resolve this issue?


Can this auto kill feature be disabled or is it something else?


Really upset that something like this becomes so complicated. What happen to it only being a battery, ignition switch, fuse, solenoid or starter?


Any help is appreciated.

 

I finally figured out my issue with the car not starting with the help of Rob the owner of Needswings on the Internet phone number 1-586-531-1413 10am-5pm EST Sales@needswings.com NeedsWings Performance Products The problem was the result of changing my key fob shell to a new shell. The transmitter still worked to unlock the car but caused the car to start for 2 seconds then dies. Nothing happens the next attempts which is a no start problem.

After trying everything as mentioned in original post, I decided to order a new key. I read from someone else's post that they used Needswings and we're happy. Turns out they have the best price $159 plus shipping and only took a week to get my key. I think they have express options to get a key within a few days. Rob said they can get anything for a Crossfire, just give them a call.

The new key worked the first turn of the key. Old key still opens doors but won't start the car.

I hope this helps others because I had a car that didn't run for weeks trying to figure it out. The only dealership in the area with a trained technician couldn't even look at it for 2 months. Rob suggested going to a certified Mercedes shop privately owned rather than a dealership. I have heard Mercedes dealerships don't like Crossfires and Chrysler dealerships don't have technicians trained on the cars. Bought myself a manual and started reading along with joining forum, watching YouTube videos and searching Google to try and fix the problem myself. Rob at Needswings was certain it was my key and he was right.

 

This has been covered many times in the forum. Glad you figured it out and got your second key! Just in case you didn't quite understand what exactly happened, there is a TINY microchip glued into the OEM cases that interacts with the 'antenna' ring (inductive coupled) that when the 'head' of the key inside the 'antenna' it feeds back into the SKREEM module telling it to allow the car to start the ignition/run process. When you transferred the guts of the broken key into the new body, you didn't know or see that extra chip in the original key FOB (or you did transfer it and it got damaged). IF you still have that old case, you might be able to carefully remove it (That TINY microchip) and install it in the same location in the new case you originally bought, that should make that 'repaired' key fully functional/useable. Let us know if you still have that old key case, and if you can SAFELY get that microchip out of it. If you have it you can have a third key FOB (remember carefully remove that chip, if you damage it it will not work in the new case).

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Thanks for your assistance. I still had the components of the 2 old fobs and voila the little black chips were in the corner of the base of the fob by the red plastic piece. Alcohol helped to loosen the glue and used tweezers to remove safely and put in new fob. Both work fine now. I will need a key shop to cut the key slide because it was removed previously from the flip out piece. I attached picture of little black chip.

 

I keep this picture handy.. your not the first one by far..

 

Learned something new today!

 

Rob is not the only one who says that - its just that new owners, generally, will not listen. The industry has taught people to mindlessly go to their dealer for everything.

Personally, I no longer get upset with a dealer for charging $1100 for a new ignition switch, more power to them, they've discovered a way to legally steal from people. Our prisons are too full as it is, so some theft MUST be made legal.



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Yea, I'm in a HELL of a mood today!

 

Why can't you put the original metal key into the new housing?

 

This forum is so good for all of us and Rob at Needswings has been an amazing source of info over the almost 10 years I have been on here.
Glad you are back on the road and we all better again understand the complexity of these cars and Key Fobs