The '05 SRT-6 I just bought has no interior or trunk lighting. I've checked out the lighting fixes and it doesn't mention this problem. Note: my '07 Ltd. coupe (for sale soon) interior lights work perfectly.

So I know about the upper switch and this one isn't doing anything. I'll admit I've not checked fuses, so if that is the likely problem. Is there a specific fuse that most likely is the problem? If so I forget where the numbering is located for the fuses.

 

Good time to learn more about your car, keep looking.
Hint, where would the fuses be.
It's almost like an Easter egg hunt, bit late but still.

 

Let me rephrase that, the overhead and trunk lights work when 'mechanically' turned on. However they stay on indefinitely. The slider switch does nothing.

I see nothing in either the interior or lighting categories regarding this problem.

The #9 fuse is fine (has continuity). I did notice that the trunk light plastic cover is warped and brown in the center. It's light does not seem any brighter than on my '07 Ltd. The limited's trunk light cover is fine. The bulb in the SRT-6 is 10W and made in France. I'm assuming it is original to the car. But why the heat build-up?

FWIW: the '07 Ltd coupe has 57K and the '05 SRT-6's has 56K mileage wise.

I'm inclined to think that the problem might be the sliding switch itself. Does one pop-off the outer plastic or just the sliding switch? OR...?

Also, where is the Central Locking Pump specifically located. I thought I read it is in the trunk. If so, where in the trunk?

 

I think you will find the the central locking pump controls the interior lights.
The fact that the cover is distorted would indicate to me that at one point the light was on for a considerable amount of time. The bulb is totally exposed at therear of the holder.The pump is in the trunk and a search will show you pictures of it. I have put them up here in the last couple of weeks.

 

I feel I'm chasing my tail and might have to simply live with no 'automatic' interior and trunk lights. Once again, I can't believe I'm the only one who has this problem.

The Central Locking unit was inside four Happy face bags with two plastic ties around the tubes. It looks new to me.

I have not a clue as to how to remove the cover. Oh, I could get it off, but not without bending and prying.

And best I can figure out it has nothing to do with the dome lights.

In front of me are three separate wiring diagrams which include the dome lights. They all indicate the dome lamp control is in the Body Control Module.

After that I'm totally lost unless there is a diagram which indicates what each of the 16 (or so) modules are for.

I assume that hot swapping is not a good idea.

If anyone out there has found the correct module for the dome light, please let me know. There is a small, single, white one which I suspect 'might' be for the dome light control.

 

It is very simple. With the switch on the overhead in the center position, the BCM applies a ground to turn the dome and trunk lights on and off. With the switch all the way to one direction (I think right) NO lights EVER come on. WIth it all the way to the other direction (I think left) they come on and stay on. So, center=automatic.

If lights won't come on in the center position when you open the trunk or either door, I'd blame the three position switch OR the BCM. The door switches wire to the central locking pump/security module and the clpsm uses the CAN BUS to tell the BCM that a door is open. So it COULD be a security system issue.

If you are trying to isolate your problem without the wiring diagrams in the service manual, I don't think you will get very far. I'd download the service manual (from this site) before we went any farther.

My money is ALMOST on the switch in the overhead......

 

Someone else on the forum can confirm this but I believe the bulb should be a 5 watt not 10 watt bulb. This might explain the excessive heat issue.

 

It was worth a try, but no cigar. The dome light unit from the SRT-6 works fine in my Ltd.

So back to square one.

 

onehundred80, I'm replying to the post you made on the other thread. There are four holes in the bottom. If there was supposed to have plugs in them, they're aren't there now.

I want to add that the end case has absolutely no indication that someone has managed to pry it off. I've undone the six tabs along the sides but I still can't pry it off.

I imagine that was the idea of making it more than somewhat difficult to be able to open it up.

As I said before, I can get it off, but not without mutilating it. And if it is critical there are supposed to be four plugs in the bottom, then that becomes one more problem to deal with.

 

This post (CLICK) shows the method of opening it and it has pics of the insides.
I have a spare pump and there are no plugs in the four holes.
The pump could be a replacement but the plugs would be OEM if there are no splice connections.
I think that the four holes are for air circulation and drainage, putting it in a sealed bag is not too smart I would say as the pump needs air to operate and the pump may lose air one way and then run out of air and be unable to operate, and if the water gets to the top of the bags you would really be in trouble anyway.
The pump will re lock the car if a door is not opened in so many seconds after using the fob to unlock the car, could this timer be the one that operates the interior lights timing sequence?

 

It's not that I've read all that much in my service manuals, but it seems as almost anything you do, it says to disconnect the battery first.

Perhaps an old wives tale, but it is my understanding that the car runs like crap after the battery is then reconnected.

So...did you disconnect the battery before removing all of the wires on the pump?

 

That is a spare pump, I never removed it. I have never found that disconnecting the battery did anything bad.

 

I finally mastered the little tricks for removing the four separate connectors. Best I can see is that the interior couldn't look much newer. It would be great to know which areas apply to the dome/cargo lights. But also should the 'connections' for the electric spoiler be included. The M-B # for this pump is 1708000848.

I don't know if this is a big deal or not, (battery is disconnected) but I just got continuity on one of the female pins on the small black connector. I will say that the connectors appear to be clean, but feel a good blast of high quality contact cleaner might help.

Unless there are 'things I can do', other than use contact cleaner, I'm guessing this is as far as I can go.

 

Biba, you won't find anything about the spoiler in the locking pump, that is controlled by the Body Control Module.

BTW, had a chance to have a quick look at the module you sent me.
It should work fine, it will require :
1. a 2 way momentary switch.
2. 2 wires run from the module ( wherever you should decide to mount it ) to the 2 leads on the spoiler motor.
3. a switched 12v source of at least 15 amps.
4. a good ground.
5. wires to connect the switch to the module.

[ it appears the module is merely 2 relays with an op-amp timer ]

It will work like this :
You hold the switch in one direction, the wing will either go up or down. You can hold the switch as long as you like, the module will cut power at about 10 seconds.

I would recommend mounting the switch so that up on the switch makes the wing go up, and down of course down.

The module will not know the wing position, if it is already up and you hold the switch up, it will supply up current to the motor anyway for either 10 seconds or until you release the switch, whichever occurs first.

 

Is it possible to hook this back up with the lid off and see what happens when you lock doors, open the locked car with the fob and not open a door for 20 seconds and watch it lock up again. Maybe see if any thing moves when you shut the door and open them, maybe something is not turning on the lights and the reason can be found. Also put the lights on and open and shut the door to get the fogs lighting and going of by the timer, I an sure the timer is in this security module.
You would have to sit in the car and peek over the back or look through the hatch glass.
This would be first for this experiment and worth writing up.

 

"Second that"

 

I didn't do the tests you asked for since I had the rear latch off. Yes, the negative battery cable was unhooked. Removed everything, squirted a lot of contact cleaner in all of the connectors and buttoned it up.

Better than nothing but I now have lights on with the passenger door and the trunk light, but not the driver's door. At least that narrows it down.

If you're in the same boat and haven't unearthed your Central Locking Pump, do so and at least clean your connector contacts to see if it works for you.

I had gotten continuity on the trunk light's connector with one on the black connector - next to the similar white one. Small holes so I used a needle with the other connected to it.

I'm going to pontificate and will admit perhaps I've been lucky but I've had virtually no water in either of the XF's trunks. By all means adjust the rubber trunk stops so that it really closes tight. Both cars are in the upper 5K mileage, so for me, I consider them to be pretty new.

Oh yes, what does this do?

 

That is a picture of the "tow away" sensor.

 

What triggers the dome and cargo lights to come on? I was naive enough to think it was by door switches.

Drawings of the dome light removal are in volume 1 of the service manual from 8L-151 – 158 - but no mention of trigger switch (other than the ones on the dome light).

The wiring schematic of the dome and cargo lamps is on page 8W-44-2 of volume 2 service manual. Again, no details of any trigger switch.

 

No switch. Here once again the BCM ( Body Control Module) rears it's ugly head.
( remember the info on it controlling the spoiler ? )
The BCM monitors the door and cargo switches and it decides to turn the lights on for you, and to also do that slowly dimming to off function for them.