A week ago my battery indicator light turned on. I checked the voltage when the car was on and it was reading 11.79 volts way to low it needs to be around 13.25-14 volts.
that only means my alternator is bad so I replaced it then the freaking light returned ugh!
I took it back in my car to the alternator shop. The owner did a few test and noticed my battery was low he asked if he could charge it up for a few minutes so i agreed.
The battery was on the verge of dying, so I bought one from him.
I have a new alternate and battery all should be good right? No the alternator wasn't delivering the right voltage the diodes were fried!!! This happens when your battery is low and the alternator does not charge a battery it just maintains the voltage. If I just changed out this old battery my original alternator would have been just fine.
The shop fixed my alternator after a $179 alternator $111 battery scraped knuckles and a wasted Friday morning..
She works now I had to drive a few miles to get the battery light to reset al is well...

 

Seriously people, these are 2 bucks each and would save many battery/alternator heartaches.
I've had them in my cars for 5 years now .....
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Yes sir, don't leave home without one.

 

I look forward to your next post, cause I don't think this saga is over.

 

I am not sure of the above statements, I have had cars for 50 odd years and all but one had an alternator, I have had batteries die on me and I have driven the car to get another battery. I have had to replace only one alternator in that time and it was because I could not put it back together after looking for a bad bearing.
The battery acts as a buffer and spikes are absorbed, running a car with the battery being disconnected after starting or jumping may cause problems though.

 

Well that`s exactly what happened to me

 

I was reading the comments and saw this statement, I was hoping i did`t have a next post but sadly I do.
So i ended up getting another alternator and everything was fine, till I drove it to work and the ride home the tranny would`t shift out of 3rd gear (it`s an auto). i drove it a few miles i got off the highway turned it off, then back on and everything was back to normal. I immediately logged on to this forum , the issue seams to be limp mode. I have a couple questions
1 could this be related to my battery/alternator issue
2 will this issue continue
3 how can i repair this or must I take it to a dealer

thanks any advise will help.

 

Are you sure you didn't accidentally bump the selector into 3rd gear because if you did it will not upshift past whatever gear you have it in, that's the way mine is.

 

The car goes into limp mode when there is trouble in the transmission to save it from damage and to keep you moving. It is often the solenoid plate causing the problem. A solenoid jams and the trouble starts.
See if someone can read the code for you. I am not sure if the normal reader can find tranny fault codes though.
This would not be caused by the alternator or battery.

 

Hello Everyone..., so , I replaced the alternator on the rescued SRT, it had begun whining. After finding that Rock autos, " fits both versions" did not fit both and got their Valeo no-core charge replacement instead, it was a closer match and able to be mounted with connections made. Its quiet with no bearing noise, but now, at 2500 RPM or higher, the battery light comes on and goes back off when the RPM's settle down. Belt seems tight, reckon it's slipping or is this some other issue? Thanks in advance...Peace

 

More than likely the belt or the belt tensioner or combination of both.

 

I do not think the alternator would slow down with the belt sliping, why would it put the brakes on?
Maybe the voltage regulator is shot and fails at higher revs.

 

^^ I agree.
First, get one of those el-cheapo cigarette lighter voltage readouts and watch what is ACTUALLY happening.

 

I changed the Alternator in my SE last year, the replacement lasted maybe three months (about 2500 miles) and did the same thing. I can't understand just what was going on, but it would not charge at the higher crank speeds. NAPA gave me a free replacement and this one has lasted to this day. The Valeo seems to be much more of a failure item than the Bosch.

But I STILL would take a close look at belt tension and condition before I order a new alternator. If the belt is loose enough to slip, it will be obvious - and it may also cause some power steering issues as well. Have you had any indication of overheating (water pump pulley slipping)? Again, for it to be that loose, it should be obvious.

 

If the belt is original and depending on mileage I would say change the belt, overtime and with the application of heat the belt material becomes glazed and hard and is prone to slippage under acceleration.😉

 

But why would the light come on?

 

It would have to slip enough such that the alternator produced less than battery voltage, that is how the light works -and given that the alternator can charge at idle, I'd say the belt would need to be damn loose -seems to me the power steering and maybe even water pump would be effected.

I'd check the belt tension, but I'd also bet $20 that the alternator is just plain flaky.

 

You think that the belt drives the alternator up to 2,500 rpm, the belt starts to slip and you think the alternator then slows down and drops to such a low speed that the light comes on. I do not think that makes sense.

 

I don't actually think that cause it does NOT make sense - like I said, if the belt is THAT loose, seems like the steering pump and maybe even water pump would be suffering, too.

 

Had a guy bring his coupe by a couple of years back that had a severe oil leak. The belt was like spaghetti and the alternator was still working OK.