Yesterday I pushed the unlock button on my fob twice. Every other time I have done this the passenger door and trunk unlock. This time it did not. Only the passenger door unlocked.

What I have done:
~Read the owner's manual.
~A search on this site and Internet in general.
~Read the Common Crossfire Problems section (of very valuable information).
~Checked appearance of all fuses.
~Replaced the fob batteries. Now the red bulb will shine when programming. I am not sure it did before.
~Synchronized the key to the car with no change. I did this by two presses while pointed at the mirror and by the procedure of putting key in ignition and pushing the tabs then flipping the switch
to on.
~I have followed the directions to go from drivers door only opening with one click to what should have opened everything and back. I may have gotten the fob to switch which single door would respond but was not successful in getting both to. In no setting could I get the trunk to respond. I have gotten the gas filler to respond.
~The passenger side interior header lamp comes on in response to the fob but not the drivers side. I have not checked if a bulb burned out or even if I can control this.
~The car responds with two flashes and three flashes at different times and the alarm light on the dash flashes and indicates the alarm is engaged when locked by the fob.

~I have not checked for dampness in the truck (and do not know how to get given the conflicting suggestions - but do have the Roadster tool thanks to MrMiata).
~I have not replaced fuses that looked good.
~I have not checked to see if the top will raise.
~I do not hear the firm sound of the truck release making an effort but may have heard a light something drivers side rear.
~The locking portion of the alarm system works as intended. The siren is weak to silent.


I use my Crossfire infrequently and think something may have gotten confused between the fob and what it speaks to. The system performed flawlessly until yesterday.

My inclination is to undo the negative to the battery let it set for an hour or so to see if that resets something. Any warnings or suggestions ?

The weather is going to be great this weekend and I would like to get her out and into it.

Thanks in advance.

 

The trunk should open when you open the passenger door, if it is like the coupe. It is on the same air line as the passenger door.
The gas door only locks when the car is locked using the fob, when you open the car it opens and stays open even when you are driving. It is on its own separate air line.
The driver door is on its own line and either opens with the gas door or in tandem with passenger door and trunk/hatch depending how the fob is programmed.
I guess the roadster has a locking console as well, I do not know about that, I'd guess it is on the drivers door circuit.(?)

Your problem I'd guess is the air line to the trunk has broken, can you hear a hissing noise near the top of the trunk lid?

 

Thanks for the response.
~Today I got the passenger door to open with the fob but not the trunk and not at the same time as the drivers door.
~The gas door and console both lock and unlock as they should.
~I have not noted a hiss like air escaping but may have heard a small click.
~The drivers door and the passenger door have taken turns responding to the fob after different settings leading me to think it is electrical and most likely some sort of confusion due to the fob battery getting low.
~It is possible that the trunk may have gotten inconsistent in response to the fob over time.
~I wonder if the interior light not being lit on the drivers side indicates something.

Will disconnecting my battery throw anything off in your opinion? Jaguars seem to like that.

 

I think the light inside is connected to the pump in the trunk, so if one comes on they both should.
The siren is something else again, it has its own circuitry. It is just a dying battery in the siren itself.
Disconnecting the battery upsets the pollution test readings, these being reset over time. It also upsets any settings done that have changed the default settings on the car, such as repeating seat belt chiming, fob settings. So it could reset the door opening sequence but it would be the first I had heard about it in your situation. What have you to lose?

If it is electrical it is the pump, it's not good. Ever seen water in the trunk? If you lift up the trunk carpet and peek down the front side of the foam on the passengers side you might see water, you can also push a twist of paper down there and see if it comes out wet.

But if the passenger side door opens that release the trunk as well as they share the same air line from the pump.

 

Up Date:

~ I have disconnected the car battery for an hour with no change produced when powered back up.
~ Discovered there is a whirling sound produced in the trunk of 10 second duration but still have not heard a hiss.
~ Found there is an emergency procedure to open the roadster trunk that does not entail being in it first but have yet to try it.
~ Determined I have an interior bulb out (drivers side) and will replace in case that somehow contributes to the problem.
~ Verified the the three blinks at lock and one at open.
~ Confirmed dash switch will now not open passenger door. Will retest if it locks it.

Off for a bulb.

 

Sounds like you need to look for moisture................ Or just go drive the Dragon till the problem doesn't bother you anymore.

 

Thanks for the input.

~In my ownership the car has been rained on twice, otherwise it has been parked day and night under cover. The previous owner claims to have always garaged it but I cannot state there is not moisture until I get the truck open.
~Both interior lights now function as they should.
~I was not successful in getting the truck to open per the directions as I understood them in the owners manual.
~I have verified the top works as it should and that it looks like a brand new car in that section. All hoses felt rock solid.

~It appears I could raise the top partially and unbolt the area where the lowered top sits. It appears this section could be folded up and I might be able to reach into the truck and undo the emergency release handle.

Does this appear to be the next step and way to determine if there is any moisture or loose tubing at the pump?

I may have knocked something loose in the trunk the last time I used the car. I did some cleaning and rearranging in that area when I got back. I seem to recall something about the handle not feeling exactly the same in operation as it had before.

 

Yes, if you can get the top raised with the tonneau open, you can drop the trunk divider and pull the emergency handle. Not guaranteeing the handle will override a stuck electrical solenoid however.
There are 2 lockouts on the trunk latch, the pneumatic one and the electrical one controlled by the top pump module.

 

Mark Christopher broke his emergency handle attempting this .. I have to wonder if that is from the "top in motion" locking mechanism.. Just a thought.. and there have been a couple cases of trunk locked.. then mysteriously they unlock..

 

My money is still on a broken air line that is for the passenger door and trunk lid.
The whirring is the pump operating. Is it possible for you to have some one push the trunk lid down and release it just after operating the fob opening button? May be power on the lock would be less allowing it to open.

 

Remember, the fuel pump operates upon key rotation to 'ON' until fuel system pressurization, there should be a whirring at the right rear wheel well underneath inside frame. Can you have someone press the interior lock/unlock button (upon command) a couple of times until the system can be reliably isolated as the right pump motor noise? Listen closely at the lower right rear bottom of the trunk (car not running), so you can hear how long the pump for the pneumatic locking system is/is not running? Since this also involves the passenger door (sometimes, correct me if I am wrong) it is like 180 is focusing on, an air leak in that branch line somewhere. I haven't seen (or remember seeing) a schematic of the tubing routes/ports so there may be a long way to go for that trunk actuator. A small leak may open/close the passenger door but being at a threshold where it sometimes doesn't open the passenger door actuator (but) in all cases the trunk actuator is starved for the necessary activation all the time. The dash button should work better than the FOBs, as it is direct wiring not effected by any interference or other EM/battery influences. If the dash door control is not working in one position (wasn't clear enough it operates the rest without problems in lock/unlock mode), you have more problems than a possible line leak.


.

 

I think the fuel pump runs continuously, with the lines full and at pressure the excess fuel pumped is diverted back to the tank. I think that is what you mean but that is not the way it reads in your post.

The trunk actuator line runs forward to the bulkhead up the inside of the car and then through the right hand corrugated grommet at the top of the hatch and down beside the glass under the trim to the actuator. This has got to be close to 8' of hose, the normal break point is in the corrugated grommet between the hatch and the car body.

In the following photo you can see the three hoses coming from the pump which is bottom center under the foam, the first hose (marked red) goes vertically to the gas filler door, another line has a Tee in it, the Teed line goes up and on to the hatch with the line continuing on to the passenger door. The third line goes to the drivers door and I suspect that on roadsters it is Teed and goes to the console lock.



In this schematic of the pump circuit it shows the left hand door line ted for the hatch/trunk lid, this is an error as it should be the passenger side door that is Teed.

 

Thanks for the update 180. I was using my 2002 Camaro key cycle as a reference (key on, engine off, fuel pump runs until pressure reached then cutoff). I've never listened to the fuel pump in my XF. In case that was the case, I mentioned where the fuel pump is and where the locking module pump is for user isolation during troubleshooting. My exhaust is too noisy for me to hear a slight hiss (I suspect) so I was saying to try with the key on and engine off. Your clarification of course is most necessary. Sometimes, one confuses when posting because we are too close to it. About the hoses, am I reading the three lines are 1(red) to the gas fill door, #2 to the hatch and passenger door, and #3 goes drivers door and console (in roadsters)? If so, I would suspect the leak is in line 2 (as you say possibly a hatch/frame pivot point fracture? It may be just large enough of a leak to allow intermittent activation of the door module based on how much leakage is occurring at the precise instance each failure happens (hatch/hatch-door). No matter what location it is at, the troubleshooting SEEMS to be line 2 of the pump module, would you agree? If it is at the hatch/frame pivot point, there have been some repairs (if I remember correctly) posted in the forum using a male/male barbed aluminum or brass tubing connector sized to the tubing.


PS: Is that 'block diagram' of a RHD system, as it seems to 'reverse' the door connected to the hatch? I didn't see the block diagram until after I replied (used the picture then the text).


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It is a North American book, so I assume it is an error copied from somewhere. The Manuals are full of errors, I guess they were translated from German.
I think one fix was to use a slightly larger hose and jam the broken ends in it. I think it is poor quality line, someone on here who was in the pneumatic industry said that type of material had not been used for hoses for ages. Cheep cheep is the buzz word in the auto industry.

 

Thanks for the help and suggestions. I am headed in to a MB mechanic and see if he can find a solution. I will update the thread when the answer is found.

Thanks again for all the input.

 

Thanks to the great information, diagrams and pictures on this site The trouble shooting went much easier and a dialog was enabled.

Mike of Jarek's in Knoxville quikly found the rub spot on a line which was leaking air at the compressor. All is fixed.

Thanks to all who helped.

 

As a service to others with this problem it should be noted OneHundred80 got the diagnosis pinpointed in the first response.

Thanks again to all that helped.