I was wondering if this has happened to anyone else. My batt. has a voltage of 12.8. At low idle 700rpms. it jumps from 12.4 to 14.1 volts. At high idle 1100rpms it at a constant 14.2 volts. The reason I even noticed was I was sitting in park an noticed my dash lights were fading in an out as well as my driving lights. I removed my generator /alt. an took it to a repair shop an it tested fine. All grounds are clean as well as cables. If anyone can shed a light on this for me I would greatly appreciate the help! Thanks

 

Those voltmeter readings look fine to me. In fact, what you report is exaclty what I'd expect to see.

NOW, when I brought my newest (and third) Crossfire home, I noticed that my lights would flicker and fade at times. Before I could sneeze, that is, in a few days, the alternator failed completely. I'd suspect you are headed in the same direction - "tested fine" means little, other than it was fine right then. MINE was fine the first six days I had the car!

 

Have you met Jonathan and Murphi? They live in Knoxvillle - in fact:

You should click here:
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...-4-2016-a.html

Dont make me add you to post 6!

 

How old is the battery?

 

You know that little voice in your head that says "I know I'm right just do it", then an (expert) tech says I don't see a problem; the whole time your brain is saying it shouldn't do that if its working right. I ignored that voice an it only cost me an hour (off then back on). I am going to rebuild it. Post #6 no way, I had my baby 3days an I was
coming this past fall, then the boss said " We haven't planned an have you seen the weather forecast for them", being 3" of rain! This spring I don't care 4 flat tires an a blown engine will just mean I'll be the one on the rollback. lmao. Thanks for the reassurance I was right even though I was talked out of replacing it. C U SOON......Steve

 

Battery is only 3months. Even load tested it! Thanks 180 for link to switches an cover, got a good deal.

 

The alternator consists of two items, the alternator and the voltage regulator. The regulator may be fine and the voltage regulator may be the problem. They can be separated quite easily.

 

Dave meant to say the alternator may be fine ......

 

At least if you have it rebuilt, you need not worry if it will fit. My alternator went out, the first replacement had to be modded to fit, the plastic housing around the A+ stud was not the right version, so I cut it away.

Two months later, the replacement died! Ordered another one - it fit just fine, the plastic housing was shaped differently. So, there are, indeed, two versions of the Valeo alternator.

 

Well that is a surprise, GM has not used a seperate regulator since the '70s Guess Merc is a bit behind the curve: REGULATOR. Alternator. Bosch. . ST 68053747AB.

Lights flickering is common if there is a bad connection to the battery or battery itself is bad as the regulator switches in an out.

In a good system the battery itself acts to stabilize the voltage.

 

Having my alternator rebuilt should cover everything. New brushes and new regulator an windings cleaned. I'm thankful it's a Bosh and not Valeo. Every body, parts house, alternator supply houses that rebuild, them they love the money that is made off of them but they just don't like to work on them for whatever reason. One guy even told me if it wasn't a Bosch he couldn't fix it. That's why I work on my own car I have more time than money, an @ $100 an hour, I have all the time in the world!

 

Yup, Valeo, in my experience, means trouble. It this one fails out of warranty, I'm putting a Bosch on and will deal with the non-compatible A+ lug on my own - I WILL make it fit.

 

Your the WINNER! $35 voltage regulator @ a .com for an 04 slk320 instead of $78 for an 04 xfire. Never in my life would I have believed that a M-B part would have a better price than anybody! FYI there are 56 combinations of alt. an voltage regs that will fit a coupe.(All being a Bosch 120amp, 14.4vv.)

 

The Chrysler parts are Mercedes parts with a large markup, that goes for most of the parts on a Crossfire. You must always remember this, buy the Mercedes part and not the Mercedes part with the Chrysler label stuck over the Mercedes label.
Practically all the parts have the Mercedes part number molded into them, even the Parts made specifically for the Crossfire such as the lights have a Mercedes number on them it is like this A 193 XXX XX XX, 193 is the number Mercedes gave to parts made for the Crossfire model series, they may appear later in a true Mercedes car.

 

Please explain to us.

 

The numbers are to many to list , but short version they appear on Volvos, Audi's VWs Vw buses Mitsubishi trucks,etc. This quest started as a p/n I was unsure off and began as a world wide eBay search(literally). Going to a call w/a Bosch engineer named Mike, who surprisingly to me, called me back three times. Going to a Gauss catalog(PDF) then on to a FOOM p/n sell sheet. Long and short, I was bored an spent a lot of time an" effort" doing nothing.

 

[QUOTE=onehundred80;855006][SIZE=4]. (""The Chrysler parts are Mercedes parts with a large markup, that goes for most of the parts"") .You are so right,180 an I will say "Amen". My wife has been watching box after box roll in from .com's. I show her what I have bought and spent THEN I show her chrystealers.com's price an she's proud of me for being a bargain shopper! (If she ever sees this I'm dead) But for now,I'm busy an out of her hair. LOL

 

I can only think that the combination of numbers is made up by using the different numbers each individual manufacture gave to the same Bosch parts.
The parts being an alternator body, a voltage regulator, a six rib pulley and a eight rib pulley.
I cannot see Bosch having 56 different assemblies for a Crossfire. It does not make sense.

 

Yes180 that is the case ! Except the pulleys. Its a combination of cross referenced numbers amounting to 120amps an14.4v. Bosch themselves will only recommend , to john Q public, the original part number given to you by your authorized Chrysler dealer