My car was in need of a new Crank Position Sensor, so it kept dying in traffic and whatnot. I took it to Chrysler because I have a powertrain warranty. The part wasn't covered, so I bought it and replaced it myself. While I was there, they told me I had a leaky trans seal that they replaced under warranty.

Now, my car does this thing when I'm driving 70-95 mph and I floor it, it will lock at 5100 rpm and some speed in that range. I'm not sure if its just not shifting up or what. I've taken it back to Chrysler to check everything they did, and they replaced the trans seal again making sure to do it correctly and told me they didn't see anything wrong. I'm still having this problem.

I can get past this speed range by accelerating slower, but this is still a problem. I've gotten a transmission service (fluid, filter, gasket), a new Relay Control Module, a new Crank Position Sensor, new spark plugs, and new spark plug wires. Still does this! Any advise would be appreciated. Thanks!

Btw, its an SRT6 coupe

 

Just for kicks, if you shift manually, does it happen in every gear?

 

I can't reproduce this in manual mode, only in drive

 

I just saw your post and wondered about shifting manually. Is there some place that I can get the info on how this is accomplished. I haven't been able to figure this out. (old ya no)

 

When you pull the lever all the way back, the indicator will say "D", this is the automatic mode.
If you then blip the lever toward you, you will see '4', then '3', '2' and finally '1'.
Blip it away, and you'll go up a gear each time.
If you leave it in '1' and floor it, it will shift up to each gear at about 5600 RPM, until it finally ends up back to 'D' at somewhere over 110 MPH.

On the other hand, if you are driving in 'D', you can also downshift by blipping the lever towards you.
You can downshift one gear at a time, or hold the lever toward you and the transmission will automatically downshift in a manner to not overspeed the engine for a given speed.

The "S/W" switch somewhat alters the shift points, and also caused the car to start in '2' when in "W" position. This is to reduce torque to the rear wheels in icy conditions.

For max performance ( drag strip start ), put it in '1', turn off the traction control, hold the brakes hard and get the engine up to about 2600 RPM.
Floor the pedal, drop the brake at the same time and HANG ON !

 

Hey All~ One of the advantages of going to the regional and national get togethers is that you can learn stuff like Paddle Shifting from the other attendees. They'll usually even give you a ride along tutorial! XF folks are VERY helpful at providing sound guidance and personal help. I hope you will consider showing up at the local gtgs so you can meet great people AND learn many things of which you now know not.

 

If anyone could please help me with the original question, that would be great. Thanks

 

Thank you. That was what I was looking for. I will try it today, most of it. Not the 110 MPH though. LOL. NOW while I have you, any idea about the chirping sound from (my brakes I think) ? New pads and rotors about three months ago. Ceramic pads.

 

I've uploaded a short video of the problem I'm having. It seems like my car won't find 5th https://youtu.be/5tpTRekYN80

 

I think it's tranny slip. Maybe a low fluid level caused by the leak damaged the transmission. You might want to check your fluid level.

 

If something is holding it back, that should have set a trouble code. Do you have any ? It is possible that the rev limiter subroutine has become corrupt and is shutting you down at 5100 but more likely a trouble code is set and "limp home" mode is limiting RPM.

 

I have no codes. Twice, the BAS ESP light has come on, leaving me powerless until pulling over, turning off the car, and back on. I've dealt with the limp mode problem in the past and they replaced my TCM and Electric Plate. This is not limp mode

 

Then something else is limiting it. I'd want to test while logging things like Pulse Width, MAP, and commanded throttle position. To hold 5100, something is backing off. Does it just hold 5100 or does it die there ?

(Torque Pro can do this and provide a .csv log file).

 

It's not always exactly 5100. Yesterday it happened at 5900. Chrysler had specifically told me my fluid level wasn't low or high. This doesn't always happen; sometimes I accelerate right up past 100mph and it shifts up just fine. It normally just holds it there a couple seconds and then I back off and slow down. Twice, it has lost power and givin me BAS ESP light, revving oddly and irrelevant to my input, but without power as if in neutral.

 

Had the same problem after NAPA CPS was installed. Mine quit at 4600. Put in a new BOSCH CPS and problem solved. There is a thread here detailing all the folks who have had a problem with aftermarket CPS.
Found mine on Ebay at a reasonable price. Easy to install --- Google the install procedure.

 

I was having this problem, installed new Bosch CPS, still having problem