NOT MY CROSSFIRE.
My 300 had the ESP/BAS and ABS lights come on when my wife was driving it yesterday. The CEL has been on for ages and it is a Short Runner Valve problem (P1004), I may have fixed that finally this am. The valve is turned by a solenoid and the valve gets stuck up in some cases, mine was jammed and I cleaned and freed it with carb cleaner, so hopefully it works. If not its $150 for the solenoid. I cleared the CEL but the emissions light says fault pending, hopefully a few drives will clear that.

The big shock is the ESP/BAS and ABS lights coming on all at once, I searched on the 300 forums and found nothing specific. Curiously no codes were set for these problems. So has anyone any ideas?

I have three weeks until both cars are due for the emissions test and it will not even be tested with these lights on.
Meanwhile I'll keep searching.

Answer?
Ask the right question and you get an answer, wheel speed sensor. If so which one?

 

Amazing, I have answered lots of questions and nobody can answer a question for me.

 

I vote your ABS pump and or controller went south.. forever.. LOL. Have a feeling this is my issue since I did change out all 4 sensors ... just for the experience apparently..

 

First and easiest fix is to re-seat the 44 pin connector on the ABS module itself. Mine had a bad connect and threw no code but the ESP/BAS light was on with no code so I replaced all 4 sensors and I even replaced the brake fluid sensor along with some other brake related stuff to no avail. I was about to give up when I was messing with the large wire harness on the ABS itself and just for grins removed and re-seated the whole wire connector and that finally fixed my ABS problem the lights went out on the dash and the light in my head came on! I spent 4 months looking for that fix and it was as easy as re-seating the connector. I had never messed with it but it somehow wiggled loose or got disconnected enough to cause a problem. I still don't know why it didn't throw a code but was happy it was finally fixed.

 

Thanks, that is just too easy, I can just hope. I'll report back.

 

Try the unplug-replug thing, if that fails to correct it, trade it !!!

 

I am going to do that this morning, I think I still have the other problem as well.
I cannot find any info on putting a multimeter to the SRV solenoid.

 

any help ?

 

That shows six pins and mine has five pins, pin five in the diagram is missing.
I really do not understand the diagram, Does it say I should touch pin one with 12 volts and ground the body?
I am not in to sparky stuff as too often I get sparks when I shouldn't.
Service manuals often tell you how to check individual components electrically, quoting voltage in the plugs ans resistance in the socket, my manual does not even mention the P1004 code. The Crossfire manual may be a bit vague in spots but seems to have the bases covered generally.
I'll go look at my old LH manual and see if the same part shows up there.

 

I've never had a similar problem with my 300C. Just the transmission leak and front end clunk. (still clunking) I'll see what I can find out. Oh, air conditioning system took a dump on year 8. $$$$

Les

 

Here's what I found.

"There's a TSB for it. "Cars built before 2/5/07 need a PCM reflash and should follow the TSB 18-003-07 procedure. - Cars built after 2/5/07 likely need a new actuator"

Then I found this: "the SRV solenoid houses a 3 circuit position sensor. just because the valve actuates, doesn't mean the PCM sees it."

This guys solution: "I pulled the actuator off and found the valve stuck so I kept working it till I guess I finally wore down whatever the valve was getting stuck on..... I havent had a code thrown for 2 days now."

I hope this helps. lxforums is the best place for finding solutions to 300 problems.

On the lights:

"There is a STAR case relating to steering shaft protrusion in relation to the ESP light coming on from SAS calibration. It involves removing the steering wheel & SCM (plastic collar containing clockspring, cruise switch, SCCM, Multifunction Switch and SAS)and measuring the shaft protrusion. But... you say it comes on when making left turns. I had an 08 with this exact same problem. Found the STAR case and saved some time. I didn't measure the column, but skipped ahead and just tried the repair procedure for if the column was ok. It worked. The procedure mistakenly instructs to use a T25 Torx screwdriver. You have to use a T30 Torx screwdriver, not a replaceable bit type. Here's the procedure:

Repair Procedure:

1. Through the hole in the bottom of the SCCM (refer to illustration) insert a T30 Torx driver and loosen the clamp screw approximately 4 turns. Do not remove the screw.
2. Pull the SCCM upward on the column tube toward the steering wheel as far as possible. The amount of movement is limited because the clamp screw is captured within an oval shaped hole in the tab on the casting of the column tube.
3. Re-tighten the screw.
4. Test drive the vehicle.

Les

 

Thanks for spending the time on this Les, I can see I will be spending some nice money here.

Quote:

Originally Posted by velociabstract

Here's what I found.

"There's a TSB for it. "Cars built before 2/5/07 need a PCM reflash and should follow the TSB 18-003-07 procedure. - Cars built after 2/5/07 likely need a new actuator"Les

I saw threads like this and some threads said The PCM flash did nothing. The amount of info is at times overwhelming and confusing.
I'm leaning toward buying a unit and sticking it on and crossing my fingers.

Quote:

Originally Posted by velociabstract

Then I found this: "the SRV solenoid houses a 3 circuit position sensor. just because the valve actuates, doesn't mean the PCM sees it."Les

I am not sure the valve actuated before I loosened it.

Quote:

Originally Posted by velociabstract

This guys solution: "I pulled the actuator off and found the valve stuck so I kept working it till I guess I finally wore down whatever the valve was getting stuck on..... I havent had a code thrown for 2 days now."Les

I saw this one too, so I took off the actuator and sprayed carb cleaner down the pocket, It was tightish before and is now looser, light still comes on and code is P1004.

Quote:

Originally Posted by velociabstract

I hope this helps. lxforums is the best place for finding solutions to 300 problems.

Yeah I have been on that forum searching as well.

On the lights:

Quote:

Originally Posted by velociabstract

"There is a STAR case relating to steering shaft protrusion in relation to the ESP light coming on from SAS calibration. It involves removing the steering wheel & SCM (plastic collar containing clockspring, cruise switch, SCCM, Multifunction Switch and SAS)and measuring the shaft protrusion. But... you say it comes on when making left turns. I had an 08 with this exact same problem. Found the STAR case and saved some time. I didn't measure the column, but skipped ahead and just tried the repair procedure for if the column was ok. It worked. The procedure mistakenly instructs to use a T25 Torx screwdriver. You have to use a T30 Torx screwdriver, not a replaceable bit type. Here's the procedure:

Repair Procedure:

1. Through the hole in the bottom of the SCCM (refer to illustration) insert a T30 Torx driver and loosen the clamp screw approximately 4 turns. Do not remove the screw.
2. Pull the SCCM upward on the column tube toward the steering wheel as far as possible. The amount of movement is limited because the clamp screw is captured within an oval shaped hole in the tab on the casting of the column tube.
3. Re-tighten the screw.
4. Test drive the vehicle.

Les

This a bit more work than I am wanting to do in this weather, the car sits on the drive, the Crossfire hogs the garage with my sons '66 Mustang which goes this year.

Sadly I have had nothing but trouble with this 300 Touring/Limited - one or the other.
The AC went last fall and has to be fixed.
Transmission had a solenoid problem and went into limp mode.
Brakes have suffered from rust seizing them up enough to get uneven pad wear. two or three times in 70,000 miles
Parking brake drum mechanism did not have rubber covers over holes that you adjust the shoes through, rusted up completely.
Clunks from the front, fixed bushings on something or other, forgot what.
Clunks coming from front and back now, somewhere on the suspension.
Front driver seat vinyl trim on seat cushion cracked and peeling off.
Front tire had a belt split and sounded like a bearing gone.

When it's running it is OK, generally though I have to say it is a POS.
Having had a Concorde and an LHS before I can say this car is half the other cars. Mind you the other cars were not without faults, AC being one of them. The wife worked at a dealership at the time and fixes were at cost +10% for parts and $20 hour labor. I never worked on those cars, cheaper to let her take it work and drive home with it fixed.

From my code reader I get;
calculated load of 29.80%.
STFT B1 -1.56%
Fuel Sys 1 CL
Fuel Sys 2 CL

The load is way less than some other % i saw somewhere but they used a different term than the word calculated.
Here is what i found;

• When Monitored: With the engine run time above a calibrated value, battery voltage greater than 10.4 volts, ECT within a specific range, and the Short Runner Valve Assembly (SRV) control active.

Set Condition: The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) compares the circuit feedback to a calibrated closed range, between 75% & 85% Pulse Width Modulated (PWM) duty cycle, when the circuit is de-energized or to a calibrated open range, between 35% & 55% PWM duty cycle, when the circuit is energized. If the value is determined to be out of the calibrated range in either the de-energized, greater than 85% duty cycle or less than 75% duty cycle, or energized, greater than 55% duty cycle or less than 35% duty cycle, state for more than a calibrated amount of time, this DTC will set.

 

Hi Dave, As you know I have a fleet of Chrysler 300C SRT8s and have been running Chrysler 300Cs and SRT8s since '05. I've experienced your problem before. It is definitely one of the wheel speed sensors but there is no easy way to determine which one. The problem does not throw a trouble code and actually all the functions are still working even though those three trouble lights come on (ESP/BAS/ABS). This issue will not throw the CEL light so if that's on it's related to another problem. The three lights will go out after a few ignition on / off cycles because the problem with the wheel speed sensor will be an intermittent one. I would not bother to do a repair until you are "in there" doing something else like a full brake job THEN you can replace all four wheel speed sensors. Sorry you have not been real happy with your Chrysler 300. All of my cars have been absolutely fantastic. I run them up to about 300,000 miles before flipping them. I have NEVER had an issue with any of them (12 cars so far) and some have never been back to the stealership for anything. Just routine maintenance . . .

 

Dunno - just found that on the web.
I do have the AllData for my '02 Concorde Limited, but it's a 3.5.
Is your 300 a 3.5 v6, or a Hemi ?
( 300C might mean it's a V8, I don't know 300 stuff )

 

He has a 300 either a Touring or a Limited (he's not clear on that) but it's not a Hemi . . . He either has the 6 cylinder or could maybe even have a 4 cylinder. 300Cs are 5.7 liter Hemi and 300C SRT8s are 6.4 liter Hemi (formerly 6.1 liter Hemi)

 

No headway made today at all.
No codes set. None of the ESP/BAS or ABS systems work.
Looked at fuses , disconnected the battery, tried to take the connector off the ABS pump module and I cannot get my hand in there and release the locks.
I have to have this all fixed by March 6th to get my tag renewed. When I say fixed I mean have enough miles on the car to set the computer back to square one. No miles even if no lights and it will fail the test these days.
I like to run a car for 100,000 miles or so until I have no faith in it for a long trip, minimal maintenance to keep it safe, not abused. Then keep as a second car or dump it for a few thou. This car I would love to torch though, this is the worse car I have ever had. No more Chrysler's for me, I have had it with them. This car was made just down the road from me, not ten miles, maybe I'll torch it on the front lawn.

 

Dave, I worked on the electrical infrastructure when that plant was being built in 1984. Let me know if you need me to pick you up on the front lawn. My '95 LHS was my last Chrysler built car.

 

I think you'll find that the systems are actually working even though the three trouble lights are on. The lights should go out by themselves after a half dozen or so cycles of running the car. Be patient. When you go in for your testing there will NOT be any trouble codes stored in the computer related to this issue.

 

I took this down my snowy road and threw it into a corner, no assists anywhere and the brakes lock up solid. It was fun.

 

I had a '94 LHS with <50,000k on it when I got it. Great car except for some problems I got fixed cheaply at my wife's place of work. That car was a marvel compared to this 300. Thing was though the LHS cost more new than this car did and this is 13 years newer. It was a bit of a cream puff though, 5 years old with <10,000 k per year on it. Serviced like clockwork.