I didn't want to hijack Kolme's thread started here, so, I figured I should start my own. My problems started like this:

Started yesterday (Friday), when the key fob didn't unlock the car. Manually unlocked it and carried on thinking 'I need to replace those batteries..' Later in the day try to start, cranks, dies.. try again, cranks, dies.. In my head I'm thinking ' what's going on here'.. try a third time and nothing..

Battery is new and charged, terminals clean, replaced batteries in fob. Towed it home and checked the RCM. It looked OK, but I hit it with some solder anyway just in case. Nothing.

I'm not sure if it's taking out the RCM or disconnecting the battery, but, when I hook it all back up, it will crank exactly 2 times again.

Fob's still don't work even though everything else does.. except the starting part of course

I bought extended warranty with it so I guess I'll see what happens Monday if no one else has any ideas.

2005 Crossfire Coupe (not SRT) auto

Kolme provided some tips for me which I am going through now:

1. Put the key in the ignition, Press both the lock and unlock buttons at the same time for a moment, then turn the key to the run position shortly after - it''ll reset that key to the car.
2. Others have reported that charging the battery have relieved SKREEM symptoms as well.
3. One user reported that disconnecting your battery a bajillion times along with the SKREEM module itself (behind the dash), eventually relieved the issue. But getting to the SKREEM module kind of sucks. (Incidentally, this tip came from an owner who also had the less common FOB symptom)

Starting out this morning I am still unable to sync the FOB to the car, I'll try again later.

Yesterday, I noticed EXTREME oxidation on the ground cable connections on the battery the body. Though I cleaned the terminal yesterday, I didn't clean the chassis connection. This morning I disconnected that and sanded the connections till they were nice and shiny. Yesterday I did the same with the terminals, applied acid rings, and sprayed the terminals down with oxidation preventative.

While I have the chassis connection removed, as I type this, I am charging the battery for a'bit to make sure it is at full capacity.

Regarding step 3 above, I'm curious at what point I hit a "bajillion".. haha..

I don't want to have to access the skreem (behind the instrument panel) if I don't have to, but, I'm dedicated to doing all I can before resorting to the dealer.

I will update through the course of the day..

Thanks all

 

Discovered something new..

If I remove the battery power then get in the car and cycle the key from off to start a few times, when re-connecting the power, it will turn over exactly 3 times.. not the 2 times like yesterday..

Hadn't gotten to the SKREEM yet..

 

3 times cranking makes it look like anti-theft measures.. pointing back at SKREEM?

Do any of you more knowledgeable folks really think reseating the connections on the SKREEM will do anything?

Car is currently sitting with battery unplugged and key in ON position to try and burn off any residual power. In computer world, clearing NVRAM..

 

I'm not an expert by any means. There's a lot of "gurus' on this forum, but I have learned that ANY malfunction in the very sophisticated alarm system we have. tells the computer and sensors that the car is either insecure, or trying to be stolen. In this case, the car can stop running. Not being an exoert in which comes first and what leads to what, my suggestion is to pull the cowl by removing the wipers and taking out the 7 torx screw, and unplug the siren. There is a connector under the cowl for the heated washers, and the bracket for the siren needs to be taken off to get to the plug. Just sayin, but worth a try. It seems that the siren goes before most other things, at about the 8 to 10 year mark. There are unreplaceable, rechargeable batteries in the siren that corrode and fail. I did mine, and replaced it, with no more problems

 

A siren failure very often results in the siren going off either while driving or while parked. They usually are somewhat sporadic and the sounds themselves can be skewed, sounding something like a dying animal at times (mine did). They can or cannot be accompanied by flashing lights as seen when using panic button on a remote. He doesnt really have any of these issues so I'm not sure I would point toward the siren (which you might have been confusing with the SKREEM module which is located in the dash and not the cowl, deff an easy mistake given the name of the module). But perhaps someone else has had experience regarding the SKREEM malfunctioning as a result of the siren?? (i havent heard of it yet, and getting off those wiper arms is TERRIBLE)

The more and more updates I see, the more I feel that this is very likely the previously mentioned SKREEM module (Especially after troubleshooting). As for that "Tip #3", the original poster claimed he disconnected and reconnected the battery and skreem 12x. However, his case was a bit different from yours in that his SKREEM symptoms began when he attempted to reconnect his car back to a battery after disconnecting it for a very long time (months i think). So his problem may have been atypical.

Im curious about your idea for removing residual battery power. Im a bit worried it might not work since the skreem apparently has its own internal battery hiding somewhere, but it seems like a clever idea to atleast attempt (deff update with the results!!).

At this point though, if your current strategy doesnt pan out, I would prepare to get the car towed to the dealer (if they plan on charging you towing, you might consider getting a uhaul car transporter and hauling your crossfire with your truck if you own one). I too hate going to the dealer, but sometimes its the only place that can help.

Keep us updated and good luck!!

Kolme

 

Actually when I overhauled my fob to a new case.. the transponder chip slipped back about 1/4 of an in from where it's supposed to sit.. two cranks and dies and then nothing.. Ironically when I went back in the house and discovered the "slipped chip" and put it all back nice and neat.. went back out and she fired.

I was fully expecting to have to disconnect the battery.. Just wanted to throw out a personal experience into this mix..

 

Well, it's headed to the dealer this morning. I beat my head against it all weekend to no avail.

Thank you extended warranty!

I stopped by the dealer on the way to work this morning and the key checked out fine.

Updates will follow..

Thanks Guys!

 

This could be what is wrong with my car right now. Thanks, you said the dealer checked your key did they needyour car to test it? I almost went to buy a new one. I will try the resetbefore I go in.

 

The extent to which my dealer could test the key was to see if it was sending out a signal, which it was. They didn't need to have the car to test that.

 

Please be sure to share your outcome with the rest of us.

 

Hope you don't mind me coming in on your thread. I have a 2007 Chrysler roadster and it was experiencing no crank when turning the key. I did have all instrument lights, radio, headlights but car would not start. I had it towed to dealer today and he just told me it is the SKREEM module. I was thinking it was the CPS or Relay Control Module. They said it came up with code for SKREEM module. Does this make sense, they wanted $800 to fix. I hoping it is covered under my extended warranty. I never had symptoms of car starting and then dying out.

 

No crank is often the RCM problem, with the SKREEM problem the car cranks three times and then quits cranking until it is reset with a battery disconnect, it then repeats the cycle.
The RCM repair is cheaper, dealers often say the most expensive repair is required and then have you pay for the wrong repair and the correct repair. Which of course is even more expensive.

 

Autumn, do you recall if when you tried to start the car if this series of events occurred: it first started and then died after about a second, it started a second time and died after one second, and on the third attempt it would not crank at all.

If so, this could very well be a skreem issue as described previously. So your dealer could very well be correct. However 800 seems steep. In the past the whole thing put me down about 500 or so through the dealer. So you're being overcharged a few hundred bucks.

Keep us updated!!

 

[QUOTE=Kolme;766803]Autumn, do you recall if when you tried to start the car if this series of events occurred: it first started and then died after about a second, it started a second time and died after one second, and on the third attempt it would not crank at all.

If so, this could very well be a skreem issue as described previously. So your dealer could very well be correct. However 800 seems steep. In the past the whole thing put me down about 500 or so through the dealer. So you're being overcharged a few hundred bucks.

Keep us updated!![/QUOTE

Unfortunately the series of events didn't happen in my case., My situation was I drove the car on a Saturday, went out to start her on a Thursday and she wouldn't start (heard no sounds, one time faint crank, but did hear a whining noise behind air vents. The dealer is ordering the SKREEM part today hopefully it will be here in a couple of days. I don't want them to have my baby on the lot too long. With a new SKREEM installed I was wondering if both my key FOBs will still work. Thanks again for everyone's help. I'm hoping the code that was read was correct.

I'll keep you posted.

 

Autumn, It may be that your RCM, as onehundred80 noted, could be the issue since there was no skreem like start up symptoms. The skreem issues will usually have those weird start up problems. To recreate them after the third attempt, as one hundred noted, just unplug the battery for a few minutes and reconnect and then try to start the car. If it indeed is a skreem problem, then the car will start 2x, die 2x, and then not crank. You could run over to the dealer and have them perform this check. It might at least put your mind to rest or save you money by avoiding a skreem module you might not need. Although a skreem module code does sound a bit indicative of a skreem problem and was present when I had a mine replaced both times.

 

The failure could be due to one of many part failures. The SKREEM is just a single component of a very complex system.

OPERATION
The Sentry Key Remote Entry Module (SKREEM) has the following functions: receiving and evaluating the Radio Frequency (RF) keyless entry remote signal, actuation of door locks in conjunction with the Central Locking Pump/Security System Module, and enabling the vehicle theft security alarm with confirmation via the turn signals. When the RKE transmitter is operated, an RF signal is transmitted. If the SKREEM recognizes the RF signal as valid, it actuates the Central Locking Pump/Security System Module through the Body Control Module. The vehicle is then locked or unlocked through the power locks system. Connected to the SKREEM is a Sentry Key Antenna Ring which surrounds the ignition lock cylinder. When the ignition is switched on, the Sentry Key Antenna Ring is supplied with power. A data block is transmitted inductively via the Sentry Key Antenna Ring to the SKREEM and then on to the Powertrain Control Module. If the antenna ring data block content is invalid or if vehicle battery power is too low to build up enough power for the antenna ring, the Powertrain Control Module will not receive the proper signal. This is displayed with the message “Start Error” in the Instrument Cluster.

YIKES!!!!

 

This sounds so familiar to me!!! My SRT Roadster was off the road for 3 months while we tried to figure out the exact same problem you are talking about!!!

It turned out to be the Skreem module which cost me (here in UK) £1200

For your information, You CAN NOT replace the skreem with a second hand unit as it will not pair with the ecu, it has to be new!!! you can use second hand parts but you have to change the ecu, the skreem and the key barrel as a set from one car!!! You will need the correct set, there are two, one for manual and one for auto. They will not work if you try putting a system from an auto into a manual or the other way round.

Not saying your problem is 100% the skreem unit, just passing on my experiences with a very similar problem, hope it helps and good look.

 

Lol for this reason, i feel that our 70 Buick
Gsx is waaaay more reliable than my crossfire even after 43 years of breathing gasoline.

 

LOL
Likewise the '66 Mustang rusting away in our garage. It too just needs the basics, gas, air and a spark or two. The security on that car is a simple key and nobody has stolen it in 47 years. Although sometimes I wish they would.

 

I too replaced the casing on my key fob and then itaccidently fell on the floor and broke a part could this be the issue??

I too can take the battery cable off and it will start fortwo second and shut down X2 and then no crank at all. All your post are very helpful thanks

I am dealer bound and am not going to be happy to have change the SKREEM