You are correct, the SKREEM is sometimes referred to as the door lock module.

 

Perhaps it may be best to have the car towed to a Mercedes dealer for repair since the entire electrical system is Mercedes (if Mercedes will have your CF?). 8 weeks is really unfair and an indication that Chrysler may not be able to diagnose the problem (or multiple problems). This forum is most likely the best resource for diagnosis. Rudy Compart use to travel (or still does travel) to other cities to work on CF. You would have to contact him through the forum to check his availability. If you message me, I'll forward his contact info to you. At the same time, demand that Chrysler pay his costs under your warranty (good luck with that), but I would try Mercedes first. I would also take the position that if towed and repaired at Mercedes, that Chrysler warranty pay for that, too. What a pain, I'm sorry that you are going through this ordeal.

 

BisB,


Thanks for the info, sounds like a good idea. I'll check around with MB dealers first. I think some dealers take advantage when a women brings a car in for service. I'm getting the impression that Service representative is trying to pull a fast one, think I been very patient with him. I love my car and just want it working again.

 

The entire security system is quite complicated and involves a lot of parts and anyone of them could be the cause. In the service manual there are the tests for each part. I think that is the only way to go to isolate the problem.
Here is the circuitry of the security system. (Click)

 

What's missing from that is how does the HomeLink tell the SKREEM to tell the BCM to tell the CLP/SSM to lock/unlock.
I'm frankly amazed that it EVER works at all !
A bunch of "he said, she said"

 

Yes, women may be taken advantage of (or simply ignored) in male dominated automobile repair situations. My wife hates dealing with any car stuff so I'm elected. My suggestion is to find a male friend that will accompany you to deal with the CF (at mercedes once to is towed). The CF is a wildcard for repairs. The Chrysler service techs (my experience) don't like the CF because it is not really a Chrysler, just may have the Chrysler emblem on the exterior. Find a friend to assist you and see if the Chrysler warranty will cover repairs (most likely a reimbursement to you) from the warranty you mentioned. The warranty service may have towing reimbursement, mine does. Also, all 3 warranty repairs on my CF acquired 2 years ago all entailed DETAILED discussion with Chrysler repair managers and also Chrysler warranty inquiries. Frustrating. You will get this resolved, stay on it, I wish I could be more helpful!

 

You have to start somewhere I guess and adding all the parts attached to the SKREEM, halo etc would only complicate things farther.

 

Thanks everyone for your help, your suggestions make sense. Will keep you posted, nicer weather coming soon, I hope!

 

Aloha all,

My 05 Roadster did the 'won't start but everything works' today.
The key fob would not unlock the doors, thought the fob batteries died.
When I got in and tried starting the car it did not turn over but all dash lights lit up fine.
Then the alarm went off and I could not stop it. The fob did nothing. Inserting the key did not shut off the alarm. Locking the door with the key did not stop the alarm.
Alarm would stop on its own after a minute. Then the side marker lights would blink for several minutes. (seemed this was a way of saying the car was immobilized) I could hear a clicking or sound like a blinker behind the dash/vents. Sorta like the wipers on intermittent mode...
I tried rolling the car back a little, swapping the fob batteries, and nothing worked and the alarm would go off again.
Open the hood and the alarm would go off. What an embarrassing situation. Everyone in the parking lot was eyeballing this.
Not much I could do as the few tools I had were stuck in the locked trunk.
So a call to roadside assistance and a tow to the shop was needed. A quick check of the car battery and it was fine.
After a while the guys at the shop figured out if you pull fuse # 9, a red 10 amp fuse, that isolates the door locks SKREEM etc.
I could then start the car. No interior lights, door, console, or trunk locks though. Oh and Sprint Booster was disabled too.
But while the car is running I had them put the fuse back in, of course the SKREEM sets off the alarm but I could unlock the trunk and center console and car stayed running. Whew.
So in an hour they figured out that fuse 9 was a bypass to that SKREEM module.

So I am driving it with no worries. I will order a used Ebay SKREEM module (door lock control) and see if it works. If not able to program key or something I will send one to SOS for repair/programming.

Hope someone else with a SKREEM no start problem tries pulling fuse 9 and can post their outcome.

Cheers!!

 

Of note.
You'll need to remove fuse #9 after you unlock everything, or alarm will go off as you drive, or while car is running.

Also if you take the battery cable off 30 times it will fry the ECU.
This is a safety feature MB designed into the cars. It appears to the car that you are trying to steal it and drive it without proper key, etc.
So DO NOT REMOVE AND REPLACE THE BATTERY TERMINAL REPEATEDLY OR YOU WILL FRY THE ECU.
A couple times is fine, just don't get carried away!!
On another site my tech showed me the conversation he had with a MB tech about the SKREEM and the battery cable removal.
They pointed to a Mercedes forum where a dealer did remove the cable after alarm would go off while diagnosing and chasing the problem.
The car owner had the dealer put in writing that they had pulled it 30 times, 21 more times, it was their fault if the ECU fried.
The dealership did sign the paper and yet continued to pull the cable off.... The dealership ended up buying the car owner a brand new ECU when they fried it.
What is funny is my tech had to run out to the bay and stop the mechanics from repeatedly pulling off the battery cable. Guess they didn't want to buy me a ECU
So if your ECU was fine, then it is fried (check codes if possible with OBD scan tool before towing or dropping off at dealership) I would ask them to replace the ECU at their cost since they did not know what they were doing.

Good luck with the fuse #9 temp fix and don't pull that batt cable more than necessary til you get SKREEM replaced.

Aloha!

 

UPDATE*

Aloha my fellow Crossies!
I spent some time messing with Xfire as it was a slow day.
I started the car.
I replaced the fuse. Alarm went off and key fob would not shut off alarm or lock/unlock doors.
I pulled #9 fuse again.
I turned of the car.
I replaced the fuse in #9. Alarm went off, but I re-tried key fob. It shut off alarm and doors locked!!!

This may have reset the SKREEM, etc.

Anyhow it now works. Start stop panic lights alarm all work fine. Was perhaps a glitch in its system.

BTW I had tried a new fob and my original fob (best to have a whole nother spare fob)

Thanks for listening and if this helps just one other Crossfire owner I'll be happy!
Saved me taking off the cowl, or the instrument cluster and buying another SKREEM or having mine repaired. Wish me luck that this is solved for now. The SKREEM siren does have a built in battery and you must replace the whole siren/batt combo if that is a problem on your Xfire.
I sent an Email to SOS about the VIN specific issue for the control module. I will relay their info when they respond.
I do believe a good used module from Ebay would solve other associated problems. No way would I pay more than $135 bucks for one, even new with warranty. Don't know why Mopar-Chrysler list two with the same part number and one at $900 and one @ $155. I would buy the $155 as there is no difference I can see except perhaps internal "programming".
These module devices should program themselves, replace unit, reconnect battery, insert key, turn key to #2 wait a minute and then try starting car. If the module (used or new) came from the same exact car with alarm it 'should' be plug and play. We'll see what SOS says.
Till then Aloha!

 

Reply from SOS

We have helped many Crossfire owners, however, we have to say up front that Crossfire immobilizer faults are nearly impossible to diagnose in many instances. Due to the limited abilities of the dealer tool, there is no diagnostic information available for the immobilizer system.

If the fault is only in the hardware, and all software is intact, the charge for a refurbished module is $485. The charges include programming and a 1 year exchange warranty against defective parts. You can generally expect a 2 business day turnaround time for this service.

Parts needed:
Immobilizer module
ECM (engine computer)
Keys
Shipping forms

So there it is, if you want the new or an replacement SKREEM programmed you need to send all your junk to them...whew!
If yours fails it looks like a week before you will have a working car.
And have to pull the ECM and Immobilizer, guess you won't be using the key so might as well send it.

Also ala_xfire has the fix for the dead siren batteries replacement, may still be easier to replace the unit @ $150 bucks that way your sure to have a new circuit board and updated chirp alarm. But if you want to try to tackle the battery replacement I say go for it, what can it hurt

Here is Raodster Guys replacement guide,
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...tml#post791593


Battery replacement
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...rm-module.html
or PDF,
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...save-money.pdf

Cheers!

 

If the circuit board is OK, then for the little effort involved in splitting the case apart and an expenditure of $7 for two batteries from China you can have a non beeping alarm again. Seems to me that may be a real bargain.

 

That price is a bit high compared to the info in this old post of mine. Like $300 + high.
CLICK

 

Thanks, yes farther up the post I said I would not pay that. $155 with a warranty. Max.
But yeah that was their response.
So try pulling #9 red 10 amp fuse first to kill that siren!
check fob batts
Check car batt
Try turning ignition to on but don't start car for a minute. Then start car with fuse out, replace fuse, try fob, pull fuse if necessary.
With car off try replacing fuse, try fob out of ignition, try to start car, if no start pull fuse. Start over or go through other options.
Perhaps checking that relay board by car battery for burnt connections.
Check Skreem Siren and batts- possibly disconnect.
Check Skreem Module and connectors.
Wiggling and checking are free, rest can get spendy for new bits.
Any other tricks tips?

 

Folks,

First time post. Working off this last thread entry on the fuse #9. I am now suffering the SKREEM fiasco. I was trying to locate a short in the vehicle (radio is behaving erratically and somehow battery is dead after 12 hours) and pulled fuses systematically in the main distribution fuse box to locate the culprit. After running through nearly the entire lot, had to run over to Home depot and replace my digital multi meter which for some reason began to behave erratically during the troubleshooting. Unfortortunately, I Suffered the SKREEM module symptoms and so never was able to replace the DMM. I noticed that the FOB stopped working and the two vehicle start/stop symptom was executed three times after a batt disconnect each time. So ran thru all these threads to find out that a simple fuse replacement should have fixed the problem. Not in my case, since I replaced all the fuses up to the point where the DMM stopped working. Upon confirmation that the SKREEM somehow malfunctioned, I worked along with a Smart fuse to indicate a hot connection on the remainder of the fusesin the box. I'll be working on this fiasco over the Thanksgiving holiday.

 

Hello Cablespeed,

So sorry you are having such a hard time with your CF. Electrical problems are obviously the worst to diagnose. You are brave to attack the issues as you have detailed but if I were you, I would find a Chrysler dealer that has one of those mechanics who were trained back in the day to repair the CF. You may do more damage to your CF. Every time I try to tackle a CF detail, 9 times out of 10 I wish I had taken it to someone who knows the Crossfire (like Rudy). You could contact Rudy who knows the vehicle. Not sure if he does house calls like he use to but you can ask. Good luck, I hope you resolve the electrical issues/Skreem module.

 

Unfortunately, I also messed up the fob by replacing the key cover. Now, my SRT-6 doesn't start. I'm going to the dealer tomorrow morning in order to buy a new key. Hope this solve this annoying problem.

 

DONT,DONT,DONT,go to a dealer. Contact Rob @Needswings.com. It will save you at least $500!!!

 

Do not go to the dealer, go to Needswings as mentioned before.
If you just left the chip in the old case move it to your new case. Easy peasy.