Hi,

I have a 2004 with a manual transmission, that refuses to roll over. It still had the original varta battery, so my first attempt was to replace the battery (as the original was definitely going bad, starting to noticeably roll over slower on chilly mornings.), but same results with the new battery.

When I turned the key to start, the car would roll over and fire, but then promptly quit. This would happen twice, and then it wouldn't even attempt to roll over. I've had this happen multiple times over the past few days, and it finally wouldn't start at all, so I switched the battery. When that didn't help, I pulled the RCM, checked, and resoldered, any joints that looked questionable, and then reinstalled, but that didn't help either.

This morning I went out and tried again, and now it doesn't even fire and quit the first two times, it just doesn't attempt to roll over at all.

Have full power, all electronics are booting up, lights on the dash are on, horn works, and the fuel pump is kicking on when the key hits the ACC (first click) position. I'm wondering if it's related to the switch on the clutch (although doubtful, considering it would fire and then quit), or if it's possibly a starter issue. As soon as I have a second set of hands this morning, I'll try jumping the starter.

Any input/suggestions would be appreciated.

Thank you.

 

Umm.. disconnect the battery and try again.. two attempts and "dead again".. search here for Skreem module .. good luck..

 

Thanks, Mrmiata!

When I disconnect the battery long enough, I do encounter the same issues. Two attempts to start, and then nothing until I disconnect the battery again.

I read another post from SuperStar where he disconnected the battery and the module, reconnected in the opposite order, and everything started working again. (Had also tried just disconnecting the battery, multiple times, to no avail) Considering I just replaced an old battery, I'm going to try the same to see if it might just need a reset.

On another note, I've called two different Chrysler dealers for a price on the SKREEM module (referred to it as the Sentry Key Remote Entry Module) and neither could pin down the exact module. Their closest guesses were the Control (Door Lock), which was roughly $200 (I assume this is not it, as the service manual shows it being located in the door), and the Module (Homelink), which was $405 (Which I also assume to be the wrong part, as I think this is just the homelink module in the roof of the car). Anyone have the exact part number, or know where I can find it? Not having any luck in the service manual.

Thanks again.

 

Lets touch base on a couple things.. you have great timing.. LOL. Last night I swapped my electronics into a new fob.. the RFID chip had actually slid back about 1/4" further than where it should sit.. Two cranks and nothing.. You haven't been playing around under the dash have you by chance? There is a ring at the ignition that reads the chip.. and if by chance you knocked the wire off.. you get the picture.. LOL.

But the skreem module is in the service manual.. in fact I posted the location and pic in a thread within the last six months ( I think.lol) .. the module is buried under the dash along the steering column area. Others have reported the replacement cost at $600.

 

Thanks, Mrmiata! Problem solved.

I had been under the dash recently, as I had to repair the "sticky ignition" issue. Prior to posting this thread, I had torn the dash back apart and made sure all the wires were connected properly.

In the process of the repair, I accidentally broke my key fob into pieces and snapped the key into two pieces right underneath the rolling pin that holds the key in. I used vice grips on the key after the repair was complete, and drove the car five miles from my shop to my house (with the key fob in my front right pocket, right underneath the ignition). When I got home, I parked the car, threw the fob in the passenger seat, and walked inside. From then on, I have had this issue. Never even thought about the possibility of the fob being the issue, as I drove it home without a problem after the sticky ignition fix (but it must have been just close enough in my pocket, to still communicate with the receiver in the ring).

Walked out this morning, held the fob up next to the ignition as I turned the key, and it fired right up. I'll be ordering a new key from the Chrysler dealer today.

Being the IT & Operations Director at a global manufacturing company, I'm a little disappointed I didn't think of this on my own...

But thanks again!

 

Dealer !!!! Noooooooo !!!

and look up the DIY on putting your key's guts into it.

 

Glad you got it resolved! Sometimes the devil is in those little details huh.. LOL.

I'm surprised your chip read in your pocket.. mine had only slid back in the fob maybe 1/4" and wasn't going to play!

And if the metal key is still fully intact.. as noted just buy the fob blank off ebay and save yourself $130 bucks or so..

 

The fob I got from Ebay came with a blank metal key. Anyone know if a good locksmith shop can grind these ( if you have the original ) ?

 

Hey George. I had the blank key cut at a local hardware shop that was recomended to me. It cost like $18 and was called a "laser cut". Operates the ignition fine and I was suprised having heard this was not possible. I just discovered that it will not open the door lock. May take it back to see if they can tweak it a bit for the door.

 

The metal key is not in tact, it snapped up inside the housing at the thinnest point (right underneath the pin that holds the key in the housing).

Figured I'd hit the dealer just to eliminate having to search for someone who can properly cut the new key, and for the assurance that it's going to work on everything, all the time.

I also hate the thought of buying a new fob and breaking it while I'm swapping out components. I'm fairly certain I could do it without any issues, but I'll just save the headache and spend the money.

I completely agree with you though; the Chrysler dealership is the devil.

 

Big thanks for everyone's help. I've owned this car for five years and have been a frequent visitor to these forums. The best part about it is, this is the first time I've ever actually had to ask a question; normally I find the answer to any question in the first or second search result that appears.

 

You also can get a new Chrysler key from someone here in the forum, much cheaper than the stealership!

 

Actually we are looking to get a new spare key for the wife's roadster.. Had ordered from KeysRuS (whatever the name was).. and she got PO'd over there chain dragging two days later email "and we need this".. cancelled the order after informing them stool sample was in the mail to verify.. LOL. Called the local dealer and they weren't that far off of Needswings price. She was tempted since it's local (to deal with), but I told her just support a forum sponsor and order from them.

 

Key OEM Replacement

Nuff said.