Check all the easy things first. The clamps on the Y pipe, throttle body, just revise them all. Check the torque on the long bolts that hold the manifolds on. If some are loose you found your problem. I'd check them to 15 nm so you don't break them loose if they're still tight enough. (spec is 20 nm) They have a thread locker on them and if you break them loose you'll need to remove them and reinstall with loctite blue or similar. Also, the torx head is made of soft metal (lot's of these on this engine) and you'll round out the bolts head before over tightening. The stock gaskets are fine for stock boost but when the boost gets around 18 or more PSI they filter boost ...... at least that's my experience. Post up what you discover. BTW, great write up on the motor mount mod. You'll need tips if you use the cork gaskets. I messed up several times before I figured out what I was doing wrong.

Les

 

Sorry to pull this back on topic...

So I've done a bit of reading on the Motor Mounts (WIS), and I'm just wondering how to get around needing an engine hoist to lift the motor.
What is the key point I can use to jack the motor up and then ....I suspect chock it with some wood to protect my little fingers whilst I remove the jack and get underneath to do da business.

keeping in mind I gotta change the headers and will be changing the tranny mount as well.

b22b

 

Just an idea, but you might think about it.
As I am a cheap bast**d, I built a rig for my old '89 Ford Probe cause it's on it's 4th clutch now.
I used a 2x6 that reaches from inside fender to inside fender across with another 2x6 down piece about 1.5 feet long on either side ( screwed to the cross piece ).
In the center of the cross piece, I drilled a hole and used a circle-end bolt that I had cut a small section at the end out of to make a kinda inverted 'J' bolt. This bolt was 6" long.
I then connected the 2 motor lift points with some cable thru the 'J', and could tighten the bolt on top of the cross piece to lift the engine.

I ONLY SAY THIS BECAUSE IT IS ***NEVER** A GOOD IDEA TO TRY AND LIFT AN ENGINE FROM THE BOTTOM !!!!

( I now have a cherry picker, so I no longer use this rig )

 

ha! LOL - I love the cheery picker idea!

 

Cherry Picker is slang around here for a portable engine hoist .......

 

I would like to jump on the waiting list for the jig. I have a set that I can play with now. The driver side was in two parts.

 

I second "alaxfire" comments about a temp hoist (albeit cautiously).
I had a similar need on my old saab. I had to remove the trans (which is underneath the engine and is also the oil pan, and thus what supports the engine) and support the engine in very tight quarters while the trans was refurbished. A cherry picker would have blocked the garage door from closing, which is frowned upon in an apt complex

This poor mans engine support also provided me with much needed access underneath the car whereas a cherry picker takes up a good deal of realestate.
One side of the support rests on the drivers side crossmember whilst the other hits the floor with a cross piece.

Another bit of fun was reversing the gears in a ratchet strap to lower the trans from above...and then hoist the new bit back in place.

MotorSupport8.jpg
DCFC0028.jpg

 

ABSOLUTELY LOVE IT !!!!

But dude, you are **** - I hereby reject you from membership in my shade-tree mechanics club for taking the time to fabricate the metal reinforcement plates .......

 

Will PU mounts be like concrete in cold weather?
I would imagine they will be.

 

UPDATE: The Polyurethane filled stock SRT6 mounts have already failed. (GOD I'm hard on cars!).

The driver side post has pulled out of the Polyurethane. Even though the engine is heavy enough to push it back, it's toast. Without some kind of mechanical backup, post and crossbar link inside the mount this will just happen again.

I've put back the E-55 (?) mounts that were sent as temporary units and will contemplate this further between now and Christmas. *sigh*

The E-55 units should be more than heavy enough to withstand my abuse. We will see.

 

I feel for you buddy.....
all that work...!

 

Have you considered just pouring in the poly in place of the factory fluid and not drill out all the rubber? I know it is not ideal but may help without a completely new mount being engineered.

 

I have looked at the issue from a few different angles (pun intended) and I believe that the heavier E55 style mounts would hold up better if they were filled, but I also believe they will hold up better over all with the torque that is produced by the SRT6 engine.

The stock SRT6 mounts are extremely thin in the area anchoring the center post to the outer base. Even if you simply drilled, drained and filled a new stock set, they WOULD fail. They are just not thick enough to take the abuse. Plus there is no mechanical alternative in the event of failure.

It IS possible that I just did not get a proper bonding to the center post rubber that remained, but I suspect the torque is exceeding the shear strength of both the rubber and the polyurethane.

I will tear down the original mounts containing the polyurethane and see what I can come up with regarding a physical backup anchor. My first thought is a crossbar type solution, but I'll make a few sketches and see what I come up with.

In the mean time the heavier mounts are holding up fine.

 

Well thought I'd dig this up to find out how MMZ went with either the E55 mounts (still in?) or gen 2 poly mounts?
Any luck MMZ?

PS - he's a snapshot of the mounts you posted as having received from Steve - suspected to be E55's and below it is a snapshot from AutohausAZ's current cattledog

As per others comments - if no better info on successful alternatives, the cable tie down may be the best.

 

cable ties only work if the mounts are good. if they are blown the cable will keep the motor from rocking but won't eliminate any vibration from the blown mounts

 

Billy22Bob,

So far the E55 style mounts are holding just fine. If one is blown, maybe I put it on the passenger side where it would simply get pushed further into the mount instead of pulling out.

I have not had time, nor the inclination to go further with this project. I am thinking the E55 mounts would be an excellent alternative that could take the abuse of some of the modified SRT6 engines on this forum.

Now I wonder if a set of E65 mounts would work... hmmm...

 

Now that's a great result!

If it can be confirmed they fit and aren't too hard(?) then we just need to find a willing guinea pig....unfortunately I just had mine changed.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercedes-W220-E55-S55-Engine-Mount-Driver-Left-or-Passenger-Right-OEM-/151141995903?_trksid=p2054897.l4275

 

Well, I think the coupe broke a driver's side mount today. What is the answer? Should I buy the E55 mounts then cable the driver's side or stock and cable the driver's side.

 

So far the E55 mounts show no sign of failure. Still solid and I drive this pretty hard. (manual shifting a lot).

I would say for reliability the E55 mounts. Not sure if the cable would be necessary.