I've been trying to get the parts together to build this little circuit that basically will do the same thing as pulling fuse's 17 & 18, but doing it with a remote control. It has been a little time consuming trying to find all the components I was wanting, for instance the Cole Hersee RC-700112-NN (SPDT High power relays), two place's I had tried to get them from called me a couple day's after ordering them and said their supplier was out of stock and didn't know when they would be available. I finally got them ordered from NAPA on the 23rd and should be receiving them by the 30th of Nov. Both 17 & 18 fuse's are 40 amp, I doubt they pull that much, but you have to build the circuit to hold up to what it is fused at, the normally closed contacts on the 70 amp High power relays are rated at 60 amps. I had to go with this 70 amp relay because the heavy duty 40 amp relay's normally closed contacts are only rated for 30 amps. I got the # 8 gauge wire in line fuse holders through [/SIZE]WWW.Radioshack[/SIZE], the brand name was monster car power. The remote control unit I got from [/SIZE]allcorp@allcorp.com and is good for 6 amps( probably used for car alarms), the relay coils that the remote will turn on probably won’t pull 1 amp for both. The one thing I could not get after searching for a couple weeks off & on was male 90 degree flange electrical terminals to plug into where the 40 amp fuse's will be pulled out of, so I'll have to make the straight one's work. I've had the whole top of the fuse panel out and I believe all this little circuit can fit into the bottom of it. I wanted to get this all together and tested before I made this post, but I've had a couple people asking me about it after mentioning it on a thread. So here's the basic run down, you'll need a few feet of # 8 wire - mount the relay's on a small piece of metal that you can Velcro or bolt inside the bottom of the fuse box. Connect the # 8 wire of the inline fuse holders to # 30 on the relays, one for fuse # 17 & one for fuse # 18 and butt splice about 4 to 6 inches of # 8 red wire to the other end of the fuse holder wire so you'll have plenty of wire to feed up to connect to the hot side of where # 17 & # 18 fuse's were. Then I'm using # 8 gray wires to connect to # 87a terminals of the relays to run back up to plug into the load side of where the fuse's were. Now for the remote receiver it's pretty small, I'm planning on just tie-wrapping it to part of the wiring harness under the fuse panel. Run the hot output wire to # 86 of both relay's and the negative to # 85 of both relay's. To power the receiver you'll need another small in line fuse holder, you can tap off another fuse or in the rear of the fuse box where it mounts against the firewall there is a stud that only has power only when the car is on, then you'll need to find a place to get a ground for it and I don't know yet if there is anywhere inside the fuse panel to get a ground. This circuit will be de-energized all the time and the car should work just like normal till you turn it on to break the circuit. Here are a few pic's of the component's and where the wire's will be coming up from under the fuse panel, I just stuck a couple wire's through for an example, when finished, all you will see is 2 gray & 2 red # 8 wire's coming up from the underside of the fuse box connecting to where the fuse's use to be. The relay's & some # 8 wire = $21.00, # 8 gauge inline fuse holder's = $19, remote control device = $25, BEING ABLE TO DO DOUGHNUT'S with a click of a key fob, PRICELESS! For anybody doing this, for the first few day's of driving you should pop the top of the fuse panel & feel all connections for heat just for safety measure's, I don't think there will be any problem's. Sorry the pic's are split up, I'm having to go a different route loading pic's.

 

Are you able to rev past 5,000 with this? A very clean install.

 

I've not got it installed yet, but from what I've read about pulling those two fuse's probably not. It should be a very clean looking job when done. And if you ever need to take your car in for work all you'll have to do is pull the four wire's out of where the fuse's were, plug the fuse's back in and push the wire's down through the hole so they can't be seen. When you want to hook it back up just pop the top off & stick the four wire's back up & plug them in. I'm hoping to get the job done this weekend.

 

That's pretty neat! Why did you opt for a remote vs. a switch in the car?

 

The remote will enable you to hide everything under the fuse panel with no external wiring except for possably getting a ground for the reciever and maybe the antenna wire for the reciever, but probably not since the transmitter will be so close.

 

My bad ohh it looked like it was installed from the second pic, Thought it looked clean lol probably cause there was nothing there lol. let us know how its goes, I will defiantly do this if you can rev pass 5,000 everything I have read as well says you wont be able too I wish there was some way around that.

 

It will look clean, instead of those two wire's I stuck in there just for an example, there will be four connected to where the 40 amp fuse's were. And as far as the 5,000 RPM, if you are in 1st gear at least it won't shift to 2nd unless you want it to, (make's dougnuts easier).

 

AHAHA HA HA HA doesn't the RENNTECH kit pretty much take care of that for you lol probably at a quarter throttle???

 

Yeah with the Renntech kit & a sprint booster I got one touchy gas pedal. My biggest problem is traction, it will light'em up at any speed in 1st gear, the main problem there is that it hits redline so fast it shifts to 2nd before you know it.

 

Well I got the remote control circuit to turn off fuse's 17 & 18 installed this weekend. I had never pulled those fuse's in my car, all I knew about pulling them is what I had read here on the forum. It works good, just a click of a key fob and they are off and another click and they are on. I'm going to try to post up a couple pic's, one is the circuit wired up laying on a bench with the relay's tie-wrapped together and a thin piece of rubber wrapped around them to protect the connections. There is also a 4"X4"X2" thick piece of what looks like carpet padding in the same picture, it was laying in the very bottom of the fuse box. That is where I set the relay's & fuse holders, the remote reciever I pushed up between two wiring harness's that go on into the cabin (fit like a glove). The only wire that is outside the fuse box is the ground and I hid it pretty good. When I went out for a test drive I turned off the fuses and the ABS & BAS-ESP lights came on. I put it in 1st gear ran it up to about 10 MPH and while watching the tach I nailed it, I got pretty sideways immediately, the tac went up to about 6,200 & shifted to 2nd. Then I went looking for a parking lot with no cars to try a doughnut, found one at the local VFW and gave it a shot. It started out good, but once it started around and got a lot of weight on the outside rear tire it quit spinning, I was very disappointed, I only tried once because I didn't know where the town cop was.





.

 

You know there is a break out box on the passenger side that has the hot leads from the TC/ABS system, it's the small plastic black box that flips open, I believe its the center lead. This does the same thing as the fuse removal and you can rev up to redline with this lead disconnected. It's a bit easier that running wires into the fuse panel or removing fuses.

 

I didn't know that, but it wasn't that tuff of a job. And now I can just click my little remote control fob and turn it all off without even opening the hood. That's pretty convenient.