Everyone, may want to carry a spare relay and the means to replace are repair relay roadside and also the cps . You may also want to print copy"s of info on how to install/replace in car. Just a thought.

 

Just a update on the relay control module repair. The dealer charged Chrysler $451 for warranty work to remove and replace the module and to fix the oil leak -- gaskets on both sides.

 

=======Did Chrysler furnish the part at n/c and the 451 just labor?

 

Sounds like it to me.

$451 divided by five hours would be $90.20 an hour.

I'd guess 1 - 2 hours for the Relay Module replacement and 3 hours for the other work - sounds about right.

 

Don't know about the free part. However I did look at the new part. It does include all the fuses - horn, fuel pump relays and fuses. On my copy of the work order it said 1 hour for doing both value covers gaskets. There was N/C for the adhesive-RTV Black. On my copy it did not have the labor for the remote control module. I just noticed the total of $451 when I signed Chrysler invoice.

 

Hi all - please help!!!!

I have a 2004 6-speed with 85K; she is my daily driver with about 80 miles total commute/day.

My Little Egg (it was once compared to a Ruby Faberge egg) has done the Mystery No Start twice; once at the end of the day after sitting in the shade, the second time earlier this evening, as I was almost home. Both times, no cranking, etc., and while I have read through the entire thread, the one thing that I cannot find is WHERE you guys are ordering the RCM. I try links, googling, etc., and find nothing (I AM tired, so perhaps I'm just missing the sites).

Can anyone help? Or would it be better to try to deal with the twits at the local MB dealership and try to order the part through them?

 

My local MB dealer had one in stock and I picked it up for hundreds less than Chrysler's MSRP.

 

This may help. Or PM tighed1
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...-no-start.html

 

I got mine from the Chrysler dealer but I knew one of the mechanics there so I got it for a little over $200. The problem was solved and we have not had any trouble since. Best of luck!!!

 

I ordered mine through a Mercedes-Benz Dealership. The part number is the same as the one on your RCM. Got it for around $90 dollars. Tried going through the Chrysler dealership and they were acting like I was asking for a part for my spaceship. Installed in less than 3 minutes. Car started right up and haven't had any failures. However Tighed1 has a thread that shows you how to repair it with a soldering gun. He will also fix yours for a small fee. I'm sending mine to him when I get back home. I will be nice to have a backup if it happens again. Hope this helps.

 

If you can't solder, take it out anyway. If the solder connections shown in the RCM thread are bad, take it to a local Radio shop (Motorola or Kenwood or where ever the local police take their radios) and have a tech resolder the bad connections for you! Our minimum bench charge is $65, but for that we'd not even charge you (unless the boss is around, he'd probaby charge you $15).

 

Hi everyone - thanks first, for all your responses. Going to the local dealership would be a last ditch hope for finding any part, as the local Chrysler dealership was very unhelpful to me when I needed to get a replacement key fob (ended up getting one when we were in Houston, which is over 365 miles from my home).

I found tighed's link literally minutes after I posted the question here, and the next morning, went out to my little Egg, pulled out the Relay Control Module (opening the case holding the board was a nightmare, though), and lo and behold, the same exposed pins which he highlights in his post were the same as in mine (I know; bad grammer, but I'm on one small cup of coffee today ).

Took out my well-used solder kit and soldered the daylights out of it, and outside of a teensy hesitation when I started it (because Hubby was convinced it was a bad battery that might explode), car has been running beautifully ever since. And now hubby knows better than to poke fun at me when I head for this forum in case anything happens to the Egg since it pretty much saved me a few dollars.

I love this site!

 

Hello all,

I have an '05 XFire that I wouldn't trade for anything. I love this car! But...the no start issue began last summer. Only happened a few times, so my husband thought it was the battery cables and replaced them. Then 3 weeks ago it died while I was in a really, really busy intersection during "going home" traffic! That's an experience I never want to repeat. Called my husband, by the time he got there (about 20 min later) it started right up. Headed home, but didn't make it. It died again while driving. Then he replaced the battery. Worked fine for a day and died again while I was driving - turned at light into incline drive to Walmart & it died with tons of cars behind me. This time I almost got hit from behind. After it cooled about 15 min, started and drove into level parking lot where it died again. Walked to Walmart, shopped 30 min., came back and car started right up. Drove like a madwoman as fast as I could (probably will be receiving a few tickets in mail for running lights) and it died again. Waited 55 min. (in the dark at a stop sign) before it finally started again. I made it home & didn't drive it again. This is a very dangerous problem. I wonder if anyone has had a bad accident as a result.

Saw the solution on this thread, so hubby soldered the relay control module (they did have cracks), reinstalled it and car started right up. He test drove it, did great, came home. Went back out, now it won't start. AAAAAgghhhh!
Should we buy the module or try soldering other points? or could it be the Crank Position Sensor? If so, can we replace that ourselves? He said it still cranks, but won't start. (Oh, after he soldered the 3 points shown, the "check engine light" went off.)

 

https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...on-sensor.html

Check this link, Should help.

 

SA_RED,
My wife is a nurse and this same thing happened to her several times on her way to and from work. She was livid and wanted to sell the car. I went ahead and replaced the module instead of trying to fix it and I have been so happy ever since. We have not had a single "won't start" or have it die in traffic. She now loves her car again and I would recommend replacing the module instead of trying to fix the old one.
Best of luck with whatever you decide to do.
Once again - happy Crossfired owners!!

 

One quick question for you ra_red.
When your car quits, does the engine crank and try to start?
Our car did NOTHING!!! It is my understanding that the fuel control relay is part of the module and when it malfunctions the engine will not crank.

 

sa_red
IF you read through all of the posts on this issue you will discover that if your car dies and DOES crank (but does'nt start) - The Crank Position Sensor is most likey your problem.
If the car dies and DOES'NT crank - The Relay Control Module is likely the problem.
You said that your car does crank. In that case I would suspect the CPS.

 

Fuel control relay is part of the RCM but that is not the problem we are having when the RCM goes bad.
If you check your fuel pressure it will be fine because the fuel pump is working.
The problem is that the path to ground (one of the three connections that get re-soldered) to the fuel injectors is bad and the injectors won't fire.

 

So, what do you mean by "Crank"?

See, I am in Georgia and if you are talking to a Georgian over the age of about 60, "It won't crank" means that the engine won't start.

If you ask them "does it turn over?" they will say, "No, I told you - it won't crank."



"I like living in the south, the weather is nice, that is all that matters" .... *repeating this ad-nauseum*

 

"Crank" means that the starter engages and turns the engine but it will not start. This is the symptom for the crank position sensor being bad.

Not cranking/turning over and not starting is the sypmtom for the RCM being bad.