KILL ME NOW. 2004 Crossfire. 66K miles. Not ONE SINGLE PROBLEM until now. Same issue as what "EXTENSIVE" posted here on the thread earlier. Been at dealership for 5 days. They are still "diagnosing" it. They THINK they need to change the ignition (I had it changed about three years ago, due to "sticky ignition" issue). I told them to also give me a spare key when they do this. So, they think that is the first thing that needs to happen. Second thing: They say it needs a SKIM Module. IF I AM LUCKY ... that will fix the car. That will be $1,529. No guarantee until that actually DO THIS that it will fix issue. If it does not fix issue, they say next step would be to replace the SKREEM Module for an additional $615. Bringing the grand total to $2,144. That's just super, isn't it? Especially since the car is only worth about $7k. Since I love the car and it's long paid for, I would not be as pissed if I just KNEW FOR SURE that this all would definetely fix the problem and that I would not encounter any other major issues say within the next 3 years. Because I do love the car. But uggggggggg. This is a nightmare.

 

What are the symptoms ( be as specific and step by step as you can )

a. when I try to start, all the lights come on but the engine won't turn over.
or
b. when I try to start it, it sounds like the starter is turning over the engine, but it won't start. After 3 tries, I have to turn off the ignition to try again.

If a. then RCM fix needed.
If b. then new bosch CPS needed.

Otherwise, tell us the symptoms.

 

The issue would be more like a. However, the first thing that happens that isn't normal is that my key fob will NOT unlock the door. I have to unlock the door manually, which in turns sets off the alarm and makes every light flash and go nuts and I have no way of shuting it off. THEN, I try to start the car and it really does not even turn over (I get nothing). This first happened a month ago and I towed it to my mech he could not figure out so put in new battery (which the old one was reading full juice) but at any rate the new battery "fixed" the problem for a month. Until now. Another thing that MAY or MAY not have something to do with this is that my mech put in a new ignition about three years ago (due to sticky ignition). He used the guts from my original FOB and just put the stick part of the key into it and programmed it. That has seemed to work fine for last three years ... but who the hell knows.

 

Hi all,

Our 2005 SRT 6 roadster has just over 196k miles on it. Almost broke in. We've experienced issues with the RCM and thanks to this site a re-solder job fixed our problems for about 8 months. The check engine came on again and I thought maybe I could rotate relays on the module to put a better acting one in place of the one having issues. Couldn't seem to get things hot enough so resoldered all again and reinstalled. NO START!!! I pulled it out again, resoldered everything again and it worked...for 2 days. We've been putting up with the check engine light illuminated but yesterday things didn't work so well. My wife took a morning trip and on her return the car ran rough, sputtered, had no power and died a couple times. I went to play highway helper and determined the car was flooding. I was able to start it so I drove home the 20 miles avoiding stoplights in order to keep it moving. The faster I drove, the better it did. But...when I got into the garage, the tank was empty after driving only 181 miles...normally a tank gives us 330+ miles. Do you think the RCM is finally caput or do I have a bigger or smaller issue? I'm just getting started on this problem so to fill you in:

1. RCM is original
2. Fuel filter is original
3. Fuel pump is original
4. Spark plugs are original

Thanks,

Gerry

 

I don't think it is the RCM.
Intercooler pump maybe ?
Crankshaft Position Sensor ?
I would definately go with some new plugs and wires at 197K. ( Rob at Needswings has a package kit for this at $229.95 )

 

Ok,this am backed car out to change side marker build,once done went to start nothing,read this thread so obviously it is the RCM, is this something I can order from dealer and install myself and if so,where is it located?Thanks in advance for any help,Jackie

 

This fix is a very easy and inexpensive fix. You should try to find a forum member close by and have the RCM solder fix done. Your cost is almost nothing and the problem will not return.

 

Got the soldering iron heating up right now,my only concern is the all the contacts look perfect,are the highlight contacts on the original how to thread the only ones to be concerned with?

 

These contacts are like some women, they look great until you get up close and really look.
My wife says the same can be said about men, just not me though.

 

Wwwwwooooowwwwww,it worked, I am so damn happy right now!! Thank you Crossfire Forum members,what a relief!

 

I should have been here sooner,I have am M109r Suzuki motorcycle and I am a member of the 109riders forum and the have helpful how tos as well,so I knew you guys would be helpful with this little slice of German Hell!

 

Congrats. Another satisfied customer.

 

Thanks to all here,yes I am satisfied,I was dreading the Stealer guess which part you get to pay for game!

 

Hi ala_xfire,
I just reread your response for the 3rd or 4th time. I purchased and installed a cam pos sensor and plugs not a crank pos sensor. Today, 1-7-14 I started a new thread SRT 6 Roadster 2005 engine lockup. In it I incorrectly mentioned cam pos not crank pos. If you look at that thread...should I be worried?

Thanks
Gerry

 

Just did the RCM fix on mine. About a month ago, driving down the freeway, and my '05 NA Limited Roadster (78k miles) died for a 1/2 second at most - CEL popped on and right off. It happened so quickly I barely had time to look at the dash before it was back on and running. Took it home, plugged in the computer - no codes in the computer, all modules reporting.

Flash forward 3-4 weeks - same exact thing happened. Split second loss of power, then running fine.

Today - driving home - she totally died on the freeway at about 35mph (traffic). Eased over to the shoulder, and tried to restart. Nada. All the lights came on, all the electrical worked fine, no beeping, no crazy gauges or dash warnings. Tried to restart a half dozen times with no luck. Got out, checked under the hood (nada), got in, tried to restart again - nada. Called USAA to request road side assistance, and as I was talking to the rep decided to try again (maybe 3-4 minutes after the last time trying, 5-6 minutes total?) she fired right up.

Got home, spent 10 minutes researching it on the forum, pulled the RCM, saw that the solder traces were in BAD shape (part of the black plastic box was even a little melted). Fired up the soldering iron, patched the joints, and she's running good as new - even seems to idle slightly smoother, which might be totally a placebo effect, or might be due to the fuel pump getting better voltage / less resistance from the crap solder joints. Only time will tell if this is the fix, but based on reviews from everyone else who experienced this in the past - I think it is!

Thanks, CFF!
-Kevin