O2 sensors can fail... but not once a year and not all FOUR once a year.

It ain't your car - it's your dealer. What codes is the car throwing? YOu can go to many parts stores and have the codes read - then come here (or do a google) and see just what the codes really mean.

Sounds to me like your dealership can't diagnose the problem, and only throws parts at it. In any event, $1600 for four O2 sensors and labor to replace them? That makes no sense. The sensors don't cost $300 each and it does not take THAT long to change them.


Take the car to an independent shop that works on Mercedes.

 

this thread is a life save, My fiance's car started having the usual problems. Thanks to this thread I figured it was the crankshaft sensor. She went to autozone had the employee read the error codes and it matches our guess, he also had the sensor for $55 so bought it there instead of waiting for it to be shipped. The car was dead at our apartment so I changed it out with all the wrong tools, it took about an hour. Only tip I have is go back home and grab your tool BOX. I would have finished in half the time if I had a socket wrench and a proper extension.
Any who, THANK YOU VERY MUCH FOR THE WEALTH OF INFORMATION AND EXPERIENCE

 

i am a new mwmber as of last night, and i owen a 2004 black crossfire coupe with 48,000 miles.
my crank pos. sensor went out yesterday, autozone had one ofr 56.00 and i put it in this morning. i found that the 1/4 inch 12 point socket was slipping on the torx head bolt. I rummaged through my tool box and came up with a 7mm 6point socket that fit the bolt perfectly. just wanted to pass this tidbit along so there are no rounded bolt heads in the future for my fello forum members. Thanx all.

 

Thanks to all who contribute to this site. You guys have saved me soo much time, money, and stress by having the answers I need when the crossfire is having a bad day. (2004 coupe)

Recently replaced the CPS per the instructions on this thread. Here are a few tips learned from experience:

1.) The clip with the wire is a pain to get off. The tab refused to release with thumb pressure alone and there is hardly room to get any leverage. What worked for me was to use a long skinny flat head screwdriver to pry up the tab (it is hooked over a nub on the sensor) don't use too much force when prying...just enough to lift it off the nub and then pull the plug off the sensor with your hand or some needle nose plyers. It will come off with very little resistance once the tab is unhooked.

2.) To get the hidden screw off, use a six pointed 1/4" socket. It will also need to be 1/4" drive because a 3/8" drive socket will be too big and will hit the edge of the sensor. Some on this forum said to use a six pointed 7mm socket, but I found that this was slipping and I was worried about stripping the screw head. Also, go to Walmart or Autozone and get a 6" long 1/4" drive extension and socket wrench if you don't have one. This worked great to loosen the screw. Put the socket on the extension and get it seated on the screw head by hand, then attach the socket wrench. Apply firm even pressure until you feel the screw break free. It will be easy to turn after it is loosened. I suggest having a magnetic tool handy to retrieve the screw so you won't drop it. The sensor then comes out with a gentle tug from the needle nose.

3.) When putting the screw back in ...it is easy to mess up and drop it. I used white teflon tape that you would use for plumbing fixtures. I wrapped the tape around the screw head a couple times and then stuck it into the socket. This did a great job holding it in place until I was able to line the screw up with the hole and get it threaded. After that, just hand tighten the screw with your socket and extension, reattach the wire, and you're done.

Hopefully this will save someone some time and trouble!

 

The bolt that holds the CPS in is a TORX bit.... I believe that it is an E8(but I would have to go check to be positive).... using the right bit makes it much easier and safer for you.....

 

Torx socket bit (E8)
Don't leave home without it - and a spare CPS.

 

HINT !!!
The metal guard around the CPS comes off quite easily by removing 2 of the bellhousing to engine bolts.
They can be easily accessed by leaning over the passenger side after removing the engine cover.
After that, it's all gravy, even my big hands can get in to the CPS then.

( It goes without saying that you need a good set of TORX sockets, I have both deepwell and standard, 1/4" and 3/8 " )

at $34.88, I would recommend the set I bought :

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...00_i00_details

 

I took that shield off and left it off.......

 

Ok so I've just replaced the crank position sensor thanks to some valuable tips here. My .02 cents are: definitely go with the e8 female torx bit, 1/4" drive. 1/4" to 1/4" extension. I tried the various other suggestions ( 1/4" hex, 7mm hex, 1/4" double hex) and none were successful.

Also, I'm curious: what is my next course of action if the same stalling out symptoms and check engine code repeat?

 

Camshaft Position Sensor.
1. cost more $$$$$
2. Hecka of a lot easier to change ( on passenger side front of engine )
3. DO NOT BUY A CHEAP REPLACEMENT UNIT. ( search the threads on this )

 

Hello all, I seen this thread and was wondering if anyone purchased the HELLA brand cps?
If you have, has it lasted well so far? 2004-2008 Chrysler Crossfire Crankshaft Position Sensor - Hella W0133-1822491

 

When I was pulling the plug off the CPS, I ended up snapping off the clip. Is there a way to replace the plug?

 

Get another plug and cut off the old one and splice on the new one, use solder and shrink tubing. Awkward though.
Or, you could tie down the old broken one somehow with a cable tie.

 

Quick note here on here for the crossfire to make it easier.

1. Remove the wire from the wire loop that holds it.
2. Bend the metal outward slightly that keeps getting in the way of you trying to get the socket on the Torx hearded bold (E8 socket)
3. Remove the sensor and the bolt together (making sure you have slack on the wire)
4. Then remove the wire.

It is a hell of a lot easier than trying to remove the wire clip prior to removing the sensor.

 

Daniel,

The instructions and pictures you provided helped tremendously in resolving the fault with the crankshaft position sensor. The part cost me $170.00 from a Chrysler Dealer in Georgia. I also paid approximately $20 in parts to remove part; socket extension (narrow space) and star sockets for bolt. Overall the process took only 30-45 min, following the steps you provided. Almost forgot about the diagnostic machine; was given to me as a gift, but only cost $120.00 from autozone (worth its weight in gold)! Back on the road!

One more thing, I noticed your tinted headlight and tail light covers on the car, where did you order them?

Thanks again (so easy a caveman could do it )!

 

Oh, my.

 

I think that's the one that "fixes" the problem.... for a few days.

AutoHaus in Arizona (google them) is where I got my Bosch CPS for under $60 shipping included.

Mine has not failed, yet. But I have the spare in the trunk, just waiting....

 

I replaced my CPS about three months ago with a $18 part from ebay and all was well. I noted in another thread that my 2004 does not have a heat shield and that the rubber boot had melted and dripped onto the engine. Yesterday my car wouldn't start and the OBD tool indicated the CPS again. Suspecting maybe the connector is faulty because of the heat, I re-seated it several times with no improvement. I bought a new CPS but before installing it, I re-installed the old (second one from ebay) one and it fired right up.

So, I'm left wondering if the part really is faulty (is it likely to be intermittent at room temperature?) or do I have a bad wiring harness/connector? Any experience with the problem actually being with the harness/connector?

BTW, the proper bit is an E8 torx socket. This has been mentioned before but others keep referencing other sizes.

 

My crossfire cut off today. However my fan runs everytime I turn the key and will not stop until I turn off. All lights work and no check engine light. It makes a buzzing sound for about 1sec when I turn the key. It hasn't restart since it died. Please advise

 

Answer is in your original thread.