Hey guys,

Well, today when attempting to leave the library - my car started, died after 1 sec, started upon the next attempt, died, and on the third attempt didn't even try to turn over.

It seems like once again, I'm the possible victim of the skreem module. Less than a year ago these same series of events occurred and it ended with a dealer putting in a remanufactured skreem module. After, it ran fine with no hiccups (eventually I did have an issue with the siren going off, but this was fixed by removing the siren).

So my questions to y'all is... What should I do? Should the dealer be obligated to replace the skreem since it was just in for the same thing, or are they about to rob a medical student of his loans? Even worse- if I have to once again pay to have a new one put in, who's to say that in 8 months i wont once again be stranded at the library on a Friday night...

Kolme

(Sigh.....)

 

I had the similar problem few months ago, the code for Crankshaft positions sensor came up.

My car did not start first two attempts, just cranked for a while and then stopped.

Pushed the car back few inches and then it started.

The garage replaced the sensor and i never had the problem again.

Maybe this helps a bit.

 

Definitely could be the crankshaft position sensor - especially if it has never been changed. The other possibility is the poor solder connections on the relay module. if you haven't already performed these two fixes, I would start there. Both are easy and rather inexpensive.

 

Hey guys,

Just an update (which im a little late in giving), I did try the car push like D&NIS mentioned but it didnt work and I ended up having it towed to the dealer. They assessed that is was once again the SKREEM Module and ordered a new one. And actually called a little while ago to tell me it was ready. They ended up deciding not to charge me for the re-replacement. (whoever designed these skreem modules is a real pain...)
Thanks for the advice though! - If i get similar issues again i'll probably head over to that mystery no start for the RCM and ill deff check into the crankshaft pos sensor.

 

I'm pretty sure this is what's happening to mine unless anyone has any ideas.

Started yesterday (Friday), when the key fob didn't unlock the car. Manually unlocked it and carried on thinking 'I need to replace those batteries..' Later in the day try to start, cranks, dies.. try again, cranks, dies.. In my head I'm thinking ' what's going on here'.. try a third time and nothing..

Battery is new and charged, terminals clean, replaced batteries in fob. Towed it home and checked the RCM. It looked OK, but I hit it with some solder anyway just in case. Nothing.

I'm not sure if it's taking out the RCM or disconnecting the battery, but, when I hook it all back up, it will crank exactly 2 times again.

Fob's still don't work even though everything else does.. except the starting part of course

I bought extended warranty with it so I guess I'll see what happens Monday if no one else has any ideas.

2005 Crossfire Coupe (not SRT) auto

 

Hmm, well the FOB not working is a bit different from my experience. Both times that my SKREEM went bad my FOB still worked. However, the Skreem and the FOB communicate with each other and others have reported this symptom. Also, disconnecting the battery and reconnecting after a few minutes will give you 2 more chances to start which is what you have noticed (very indicative of a SKREEM related symptom)

Here some tips ive come across (that didnt work for me).
1. Put the key in the ignition, Press both the lock and unlock buttons at the same time for a moment, then turn the key to the run position shortly after - it''ll reset that key to the car.
2. Others have reported that charging the battery have relieved SKREEM symptoms as well.
3. One user reported that disconnecting your battery a bajillion times along with the SKREEM module itself (behind the dash), eventually relieved the issue. But getting to the SKREEM module kind of sucks. (Incidentally, this tip came from an owner who also had the less common FOB symptom)

In the end though, you certainly have SKREEM symptoms (especially since you already ruled out the RCM). Either way, if those 3 tips above dont work, you'll want to bring the car into the Chrysler Dealership and tell them what you suspect. They will be able to test the SKREEM and determine if it needs replacement. (I cannot stress to you how important it is to direct them in the right direction). Turn around for a SKREEM module is about ~4 days if they overnight it. Good thing you have a warranty!!!

Good luck, and let us know how it all turns out. I feel your pain on this one. x 2.

Kolme

P.S. - During my first SKREEM replacement a Chrysler employee told me that there is a separate battery which is necessary for proper SKREEM function. I believe it is housed in the SKREEM module itself, although im really not certain. It could be that the battery itself is what has gone bad and not the module itself, though this would still require a trip to the dealer.

 

Wow! I posted the same problem a few weeks ago, I did not get a recommendation of replacing the skreem, my fobs were doa and it left me stranded I disconnected battery reconnected and it started, soldered the RCM it looked fine and I am a little leary of going to far from home

Would like to know more

 

Rets,

It could be that you were experiencing some miscommunication between your skreem and another component; i have heard of others on this forum correcting skreem-like symptoms with a simple battery disconnect and reconnect. My guess is that several things can lead to skreem symptoms but not all of them involve the skreem module itself. The only time you can be really certain its your Skreem module is after having it tested (post-failure) or when everything else doesnt work.

Things that could cause similar symptoms include the RCM, the supposed battery of the SKREEM, the crankshaft position sensor, possible FOB to SKREEM problems, and probably more.

If you experience the previously detailed symptoms, and they are not alleviated by the suggestions i posted previously including the crankshaft pos sensor suggestions by others, then it may be time to take a look at the SKREEM module itself via the dealer.

Kolme
(feel free to ask more questions, as ive been through this situation twice now and have done a ton of research)

 

After I disconnected the battery and reconnected all started working, I did resolved the RCM but they looked great before I also did the sticky key, I have not had anymore issues but I have not driven more then 100 miles since I had the issue, would you put a new positioning sensor just for preventive maintenance?

Car has 53k

I love this forum it encourages me to keep her like new

Thanks for all the info

 

I don't want to hijack your thread so I started a new one to document my troubleshooting steps and frustration here

 

Rets,

You could replace the position sensor if you are feeling a bit worried about it. My Xfire has 73K miles on it though and I dont believe it has ever been given a new position sensor... maybe i should think about replacing it as well haha.

 

The CPS on my car went OUT at 53k, so yes - you may want to consider changing it or at least having the replacement and the tools on hand - it can be changed on the side of the road, but I would make sure to have a flashlight and a pair of gloves handy (it gets pretty hot around that sensor) as well as the sensor and the proper socket/extension/ratchet.

 

So, how much does the SKREEM cost?

 

Seems to vary FP. When I had to pay for the first one, the bill put it at around 400 bucks through the dealer. I've seen higher prices get quoted in the past though. They are all refurbs, owing to there do so so reliability lol.

Please tell me you don't need one FP lol

 

No I don't, and hoping I won't. Just good to be informed and prepared.

 

Btw FP,
I know you did a preemptive RCM send in repair for the mystery no start, did you go through tighed? My air pump relay went to crap. Did you just send him a PM?

 

Over the years I had some occasional hard starting. Every now and then I had to crank for a 5 seconds or it wouldn't fire until the second try. Replaced the crankshaft sensor, got a bad replacement and the car quit every time I reached 4000 rpm, so I reinstalled the original with some dielectric grease and the original has been flawless since. Now I have a spare new one in the toolbox as cheap insurance. Next was a flaky key. One of my 2 keys stopped working almost all together. I figured it was because I dropped it in a bucket of gatoraide. Then came the no start no crank. The key fob opened the doors, all the lights worked, battery fully charged, put in brand new battery, after 10 tries the car started and died. Then the key would turn and the starter wouldn't even click. Searching the forum I found the Skreem would give you 3 cranks before the no click with the key. In my case disconnecting the battery didn't reset anything. So, it's the RCM. Additionally, my data logger/code reader told me to turn the key on when the key was on. Scary! I re soldered the RCM, no change. However, I made a bit of a mess in the attempt to re solder. Purchased a new RCM and now both keys work and all the funny problems are gone. Gosh it's nice to have my car back without flaky issues from time to time.

Les

 

Yes, I went through him. Just send him a PM.

 

Aloha all,

My 05 Roadster did the 'won't start but everything works' today.
The key fob would not unlock the doors, thought the fob batteries died.
When I got in and tried starting the car it did not turn over but all dash lights lit up fine.
Then the alarm went off and I could not stop it. The fob did nothing. Inserting the key did not shut off the alarm. Locking the door with the key did not stop the alarm.
Alarm would stop on its own after a minute. Then the side marker lights would blink for several minutes. (seemed this was a way of saying the car was immobilized) I could hear a clicking or sound like a blinker behind the dash/vents. Sorta like the wipers on intermittent mode...
I tried rolling the car back a little, swapping the fob batteries, and nothing worked and the alarm would go off again.
Open the hood and the alarm would go off. What an embarrassing situation. Everyone in the parking lot was eyeballing this.
Not much I could do as the few tools I had were stuck in the locked trunk.
So a call to roadside assistance and a tow to the shop was needed.
A check of the car battery and it was fine, both in and out of the vehicle. Starter was AOK.
After a while the guys at the shop figured out if you pull fuse # 9, a red 10 amp fuse, that isolates the door locks SKREEM etc. I could then start the car.
No interior lights, door, console, or trunk locks though. Oh and Sprint Booster was disabled too.
But while the car is running I had them put the fuse back in, of course the SKREEM sets off the alarm but I could unlock the trunk and center console and car stayed running. Whew.
So in an hour they figured out that fuse 9 was a "bypass" or work around to that SKREEM module.

So I am driving it with no worries. I will order a used Ebay SKREEM module (door lock control) and see if it works. If not able to program key or something I will send one to SOS for repair/programming.

Hope someone else with a SKREEM no start problem tries pulling fuse 9 and can post their outcome.

Cheers!!



Of note.
You'll need to remove fuse #9 after you unlock everything, or alarm will go off as you drive, or while car is running.

Also if you take the battery cable off 30 times it will fry the ECU.
This is a safety feature MB designed into the cars. It appears to the car that you are trying to steal it and drive it without proper key, etc.
So DO NOT REMOVE AND REPLACE THE BATTERY TERMINAL REPEATEDLY OR YOU WILL FRY THE ECU.
A couple times is fine, just don't get carried away!!
On another site my tech showed me the conversation he had with a MB tech about the SKREEM and the battery cable removal.
They pointed to a Mercedes forum where a dealer did remove the cable after alarm would go off while diagnosing and chasing the problem.
The car owner had the dealer put in writing that they had pulled it 30 times, 21 more times, it was their fault if the ECU fried.
The dealership did sign the paper and yet continued to pull the cable off.... The dealership ended up buying the car owner a brand new ECU when they fried it.
What is funny is my tech had to run out to the bay and stop the mechanics from repeatedly pulling off the battery cable. Guess they didn't want to buy me a ECU
So if your ECU was fine, then it is fried (check codes if possible with OBD scan tool before towing or dropping off at dealership) I would ask them to replace the ECU at their cost since they did not know what they were doing.

Good luck with the fuse #9 temp fix and don't pull that batt cable more than necessary til you get SKREEM replaced or problem diagnosed properly.

Aloha!

 

My situation is similar but different.. my car started with no problems, but key FOB was coming apart so I bought a new one on ebay and switched over parts. FOB locks and unlocks I can see a little light flicker when i hit the buttons, but when tried to start car it ran and died 2 times then no turnover everything comes on like a valet key but car won't start. what did i mess up when I switched FOB's? Please direct me in the right direction.