Does anybody know how to unclip the Crankshaft Position Sensor? I can't figure it out.

*EDIT*
Here's a PDF, courtesy of manisusmc: Xfire Service_Crankshaft Position Sensor Replace

 

This should do it for you.

Service and Repair
REMOVAL

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the air cleaner housing.
3. Disconnect the crankshaft position sensor harness connector.
4. Remove the retaining bolt and the crankshaft position sensor (1).

INSTALLATION

1. Install the crankshaft position sensor (1) to the engine. Tighten to 8 N.m (71 in. lbs.)
2. Connect the crankshaft position sensor harness connector.
3. Install the air cleaner housing.
4. Connect the negative battery cable.

 

Well my car was randomly stalling on the streets and was pulling code P0335 which means "Crankshaft Position Sensor Circuit Error". I had problems starting the car after it stalled and I could restart it after a few minutes of cooling down. Apparently the Crankshaft Position Sensor is affected by heat when it fails. I did a lot of research on MBWorld.org and found many threads on the subject: http://forums.mbworld.org/forums/showthread.php?t=76431

I pulled it from the service manual already. It just says remove connector but it doesn't say how. There's actually a small clip that attaches to the part. You have to push the rear end down and pull it off. Don't pull on the wire. Then after you have to take a star socket and remove the retaining bolt.

The Mercedes Part # for the Crankshaft Position Sensor is 003 153 27 28. Unfortunately, no local autoparts store in Austin carried it. The average price for an aftermarket part is $80-90. I went to the Mercedes Dealership to get it and the part has been updated to part 003 153 28 28 and it cost $153.90 for the original Mercedes part.

I would say overall that it's easier than replacing a spark plug, but it's in a tight space and you can't really see or maneuver too much. If you're good with mechanics and you have the right tools it should take about 20 minutes to replace, not the 1.25 hours of labor quoted to me.

I've included a bunch of pictures so if you guys ever run into the problem.

Picture #1: Bolt, Star Socket, New part on the left, Old part on the right
Picture #2: Socket, Top of Screw, New on left, Old on right
Picture #3: Rear of engine where sensor is in the center of picture
Picture #4: Picture of where the sensor goes and the bolt hole
Picture #5: Picture of cable
Picture #6: Picture of sensor installed and cable attached
Picture #7: OBD II - no errors

 

CAN YOU SPELL RAPE ?

 

PS: I would be extremely interested to have you explain to the forum how you got PCM info off of this logger

 

Easy, you stick it in the OBD-II port and turn the engine to the On position. Then you navigate to Read Codes and it pulls the codes. It supports reading the Freeze Frame (engine stats at the time of fault), MIL codes and can even pull the VIN# through the OBD-II. I got this Lauinch CReader IV for around $45 shipped on eBay. I also have a Launch CReader II and it functions as well, but just displays the codes. I wish I could afford to get the Launch X-431 Infinite: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Launc...QQcmdZViewItem but it's too pricey for me and I'm not a full time mechanic, but I would love to have it.

 

True but I wanted it today. Nobody else in Austin carried it.

 

Would be great to see a list of the PID's supported from the "Creader" and the interface your are using to access the OBD port... Also, would be great if you could share the protocol that the system is showing when you access the OBD...

 

I just plug it in and it works. Here's the manufacturer's website: http://www.cnlaunch.com/english/prod...ow.asp?pid=354

Creader IV is the newest portable automotive code reader. Because of it’s small size and portability, it can inform the driver of an electrical fault at any time. After connecting the Creader to the OBD II port, the driver can read and clear trouble codes on the unit. The Creader IV supports OBDII & CANBUS protocols. Features:
• LCD display
• Displays the content of trouble codes
• FREEZE FRAME function
• Supporting CANBUS diagnostics
• Manual for reading codes and clearing codes Specifications:
• LCD display (128*32), displaying by 2 lines, LED backlight
• Two keys operation
• Kit includes a disc including most manufacturer code information. Currently, there are more than 7,000 manufacturer codes, and it updates continuously.
• Includes users’ manual, including the explanation of trouble code before 1,000 number.

Here's the manual: http://usa.cnlaunch.com/products/dow...derIVusers.pdf

The $3000 X-431 Infinite is suppose to be able to modify settings through the OBD-II port. Here's the manual for this model: http://usa.cnlaunch.com/products/dow...31Infinite.pdf

 

I also heard the ScanGauge II is suppose to work with our cars, but I haven't had a chance to try one yet.

http://www.scangauge.com/

 

Sorry, I thought it was a full scan tool for data logging PID's engine parameters and engine performance... It's only a DTC reader... I was shocked that a scan tool could only be $45... Now that I know it just reads DTC's, I understand...

If you want a full data logging scan tool system for under $300 let me know...

 

P0335.

Damn! If I'm lucky, I can call it in and they'll just call me back when they get the part.

Car seems to run great. Any chance of getting stuck on the 30 mile trip to my dealer?

 

Max, mine threw the P0335 at the track and I drove it home with no problem. When my sensor went bad it just wouldnt start. When it got started it ran fine. I still have an intermittant issue with it. I believe that my connector is making a bad connection that 'opens' intermittantly. I am still trying to find a replacement for that. But the car starts(99.5% of the time) and runs great.

MikeR

 

MikeR,

thanks for vote of confidence!

it starts and runs great, just that mouurnful yellow "CHECK ENGINE" staring at me.

I'll call in the AM. Hope it's the sensor itself and not the harness. Do you think your electrical problem is heat-related?

 

Oh, woe is me.

My best buddy no longer works at Carl Gregory CJD and I have to follow the rules.
Crossfire tech doesn't work weekends (Service Manager/Crossfire SRT-6 owner) and I'll have to leave it OVERNIGHT!!! OMG!!!

Bring it in Monday, miss 2 hours work. Drive some POS rental. Worry about what the night jockys will do with my highly polished baby.

I HATE IT when that happens.

 

Max, not heat related. It does it cold or hot. I think the contacts in the connect just arent making good connections. I tweaked the pins on the sensor and that changed it a little. I went into the connector and tweaked the contact pads and that helped more. I used a meter on the cable to and end to end check and look for cracks in the wires and couldnt find anything. So it looks like the connecter is the issue. The pins on the sensor are quite thin compared to the connector and that probably dosent help.

MikeR

 

Looks like a pretty straight forward swap Max ! Did you try Mercedes for the part ?

 

I got one from MB and one from NAPA. The NAPA part is the EXACT same part from BOSCH but without the MB logo on it. About $35 cheaper too.

MikeR

 

This baby's under warranty and I'll hold them to it. With my luck, I'd scratch the fender down to steel and have only myself to blame. At least if they screw it up, I have a record.

Thanks, bud!

 

Update.

New TPMS sensor for intermittant dash light.
New CPS for DTC P0335
Free fix for exhaust leak

Bad news.

Excessive water leaking from exhaust leak. Smells/tastes like coolant. Tech will check for coolant in exhaust tomorrow AM.

Driving a Dodge Durango. What a pig. Makes my Tahoe feel like a...Crossfire!

More to come...