Has your SKREEM failed multiple times???
Has your SKREEM failed multiple times???
Repeated SKREEM failure?
2005 SRT-6 with 68k miles.
No recent modification, service, problems. Runs well with no issues, no check engine lights. The last things I did were recover the headliner last summer, oil change in fall.
Crank position sensor went in 2013 and was changed to OEM.
RCM failed in 2014 and was replaced. I actually just swapped to another known good one as well, no difference.
SKREEM failed 09/2015 and was replaced by dealer.
The car has some bolt ons and custom tune from eurocharged, has been running great that way for years. Passes smog fine.
Today it has classic SKREEM symptoms - three starts/dies, won't crank after this. Disconnect battery and this cycle repeats.
The key fobs all function to unlock the doors, have new batteries.
I can't believe this thing could fail again after two years! I ordered one from needswings since that'll save me a lot of time trying to get the dealer to replace it, but is it tough to do yourself? Thanks guys.
2005 SRT-6 with 68k miles.
No recent modification, service, problems. Runs well with no issues, no check engine lights. The last things I did were recover the headliner last summer, oil change in fall.
Crank position sensor went in 2013 and was changed to OEM.
RCM failed in 2014 and was replaced. I actually just swapped to another known good one as well, no difference.
SKREEM failed 09/2015 and was replaced by dealer.
The car has some bolt ons and custom tune from eurocharged, has been running great that way for years. Passes smog fine.
Today it has classic SKREEM symptoms - three starts/dies, won't crank after this. Disconnect battery and this cycle repeats.
The key fobs all function to unlock the doors, have new batteries.
I can't believe this thing could fail again after two years! I ordered one from needswings since that'll save me a lot of time trying to get the dealer to replace it, but is it tough to do yourself? Thanks guys.
Last edited by unarel32; 12-20-2017 at 07:29 AM.
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Re: Has your SKREEM failed multiple times???
Odd it would fail again, and it could be a number of things.
BUT, I'd be looking at battery/alternator wiring integrity. ANY voltage spikes or disturbances can cause ANY module to fail. A weak battery, a year ago, took out my airbag module one evening as I put the top up without the engine running (on a five year old battery - I preach about changing the battery at four years, then don't do it myself. Just damn. See why I wear a dunce cap?)
Keep in mind that the jumper from block to chassis is known to fail, it is located (on some/most cars) just below the power steering pump and again, runs from block to chassis. One way out is to bypass it like they did in the 60's and 70s. Get you one of the battery cables pictured below.
Remove old battery ground cable, save the chassis bolt, but throww the old cable away.
Put a large lug on the SMALL wire and fasten it to chassis with the bolt you saved.
Connect terminal to battery.
Now, run the heavy lead to the block, use an alternator bolt or, better yet, use one of the heavy bolts on the bell housing at the back of the engine block.
You have no circumvented the original, stupid, engine ground return.
I believe it was JAMES1549 that came up with the idea of the bolt at the back of the engine. I used an alternator bolt on my Graphite years ago....
BUT, I'd be looking at battery/alternator wiring integrity. ANY voltage spikes or disturbances can cause ANY module to fail. A weak battery, a year ago, took out my airbag module one evening as I put the top up without the engine running (on a five year old battery - I preach about changing the battery at four years, then don't do it myself. Just damn. See why I wear a dunce cap?)
Keep in mind that the jumper from block to chassis is known to fail, it is located (on some/most cars) just below the power steering pump and again, runs from block to chassis. One way out is to bypass it like they did in the 60's and 70s. Get you one of the battery cables pictured below.
Remove old battery ground cable, save the chassis bolt, but throww the old cable away.
Put a large lug on the SMALL wire and fasten it to chassis with the bolt you saved.
Connect terminal to battery.
Now, run the heavy lead to the block, use an alternator bolt or, better yet, use one of the heavy bolts on the bell housing at the back of the engine block.
You have no circumvented the original, stupid, engine ground return.
I believe it was JAMES1549 that came up with the idea of the bolt at the back of the engine. I used an alternator bolt on my Graphite years ago....
Re: Has your SKREEM failed multiple times???
Put a large lug on the SMALL wire and fasten it to chassis with the bolt you saved.
Connect terminal to battery.
Now, run the heavy lead to the block, use an alternator bolt or, better yet, use one of the heavy bolts on the bell housing at the back of the engine block.
You have no circumvented the original, stupid, engine ground return.
I believe it was JAMES1549 that came up with the idea of the bolt at the back of the engine. I used an alternator bolt on my Graphite years ago....
I try to avoid sparks by rapidly connecting the cable to the battery terminal, but with a nut or bolt attaching the grounding terminal to the engine or whatever, the sparking will continue until the connection is tight. The connection to the tapered terminal is practically instantaneous if done correctly.
Last edited by onehundred80; 01-31-2018 at 09:01 AM.
Re: Has your SKREEM failed multiple times???
To follow up on this post, my SKREEM did fail again after 2.5 years. The new one from needswings arrived in about a week and I was able to install it in about 90 mins start to finish taking my time.
I'm now considering buying another module for backup...
I'm now considering buying another module for backup...
Re: Has your SKREEM failed multiple times???
Dave, I understand what you are saying, BUT you should try to avoid sparks at the battery when ever possible, you know why. Therefore I would make the last connection on the engine...
James
I try to avoid sparks by rapidly connecting the cable to the battery terminal, but with a nut or bolt attaching the grounding terminal to the engine or whatever, the sparking will continue until the connection is tight. The connection to the tapered terminal is practically instantaneous if done correctly.
James
I try to avoid sparks by rapidly connecting the cable to the battery terminal, but with a nut or bolt attaching the grounding terminal to the engine or whatever, the sparking will continue until the connection is tight. The connection to the tapered terminal is practically instantaneous if done correctly.
Re: Has your SKREEM failed multiple times???
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