Hi
New to this forum. I have a 2004 Crossfire Coupe purchased 18months ago. Last summer I had the Air Con re-gassed only to find the compressor faulty. have just changed compressor for new one. Had system re-gassed by Engineer. Pressure tested and no leaks in system. However, system will not run cold. Engineer found that condenser was not getting hot and suggested that compressor was not spinning fast enough and to check that it was getting 14 volts. seems odd to me as no warning lights and all other electrics working properly. Any suggestions gratefully received!

 

Wimbledon37, since no one else has responded to your inquiry I will get it started. If the condenser isn't warming up are you sure the compressor is working? You said it was recently replaced are the electrical connectors properly fitted,; Is the clutch engaging? You can answer those by simply looking at the compressor with a flashlight while the car is running.There are several possibilities to the warm air being blow by the A/C. Two of which 1) the blend doors under the dash are not fully closing 2) the heater control valves (Duovalves) under the hood are not seating or operating properly. I would check those Duovalves first as they are the easiest. With the car cold, let it sit all night, and before starting the car turn the A/C off, turn the warm/cold control wheels on the Interior control panel full cold. Start the car, let it warm up and then open the hood and check the water hoses aft of the Duovalves. If they are getting warm then hot water is seeping past into the heater under the dash and when you use the A/C it must push air through the hot heater. The blend doors get a bit more difficult to deal with. The Duovalves can be cleaned and perhaps made to function correctly, but you may check prices and weigh your options. Much more info is available on this forum. Use the search box in the upper right corner of the forum and type in Duovalve. You will find pictures and others attempts at diagnoses and repairs. Good Luck and welcome to the forum!

 

Either you have confused what the man said, or he has no business working on automotive A/C systems.

If the compressor clutch is engaged, there is no sense is saying "it may not be running fast enough". If the clutch is engaged, the pump is turning - period.
If you have the proper freon quantity, and the pump is running, you only need air blowing over the condenser (which extracts heat) for the air blowing over the evaporator to go cold. The valve right before the evaporator could be faulty, other than that, I'd consider zip's advice: The A/C may be fine, but the duovalve is open, allowing hot water to flow into the heater core, causing the vents to blow hot air. This is not an A/C failure. But this "engineer" should be able to figure that out with one eye tied behind his back...

Take it to someone who knows what the hell they are doing.

 

I would also think that lack of readings on gauges would tell the tech something. IF he used gauges.
If he didn't, then he is no A/C tech.

 

Thanks for your prompt response.
The compressor is new. the air-con engineer filled system and tested for pressure and leaks and all ok. belt tension ok. clutch engaging ok.

I will have a look at the two possibilities you mention at the weekend and report back.

thanks again

 

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The two valves are just forward of the battery, check the two hoses rearward. IF those are hot check the one hose forward. If that hose is hot the heat is calling to heat the car (either by a component failure or stuck open valve(s). Come back after this check (make sure the car is fully warmed and the system is set for A/C full cold).


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Checked duo valves. took them apart and both moved freely. ran car from cold start as you suggested. No heat coming into single inlet or double outlet pipes although both valve bodies ran hot. turned on a/c and blew coldish but not chilled. then ran heater to full heat. pipes got warm. ran aback to cold and turned on a/c. ran warm - not as cold as first run. using temperature gun onto condenser only showing 77F.

On to blend doors?

 

Do you know what the system pressures are now? Was the drier and expansion valve replaced with the compressor? You may have a restriction if those parts weren’t replaced with the compressor. Get the gauges back on, high and low.

 

A new compressor has been fitted. I have not changed or looked at drier and expansion valve. the engineer said that pressures were good and there were no leaks. do not know exact pressures.

 

Just for your info/comparison I measured the condenser temp with an infra red gun near the top center ( there is a hole near the hood latch in the cars frame) with the A/C running full cold, ambient temp in the upper 80 my condenser was about 115F. And the duovalves will get hot as the car warms up even when the heat is turned off.

 

Sure way to see if there is a duovalve problem is to pinch off the single hose in the front that feeds it.

 

What will happen when you do that? I too am having his exact problem. A/C is blowing ambient air but definitely not hot air. I want to do everything possible to see if it’s something simple before I have to take it to my mechanic. Thanks in advance.

 

By pinching off the hose in front of the duolvalve you are preventing any hot water from passing through the valves in the case they are not functioning properly. When you turn on the ignition those two valves react to the controls on the A/C heater module. Be sure you have the wheels turned to full cold. Post number 2 has some more info.

 

Did exactly as you said. Took apart the duo valves as well and everything worked properly nothing stuck and moved freely. On to the blend doors. I have to take the cowl off anyway for alarm testing and to clean the drain lines properly. As far as the blend doors I’m thinking it’s more than likely the AC door is stuck for only ambient air to enter the cabin. Heat works fine but when switching to AC heat turns off and then it’s just ambient cooler air. I haven’t seen anywhere though on a fix for that. Is there a write up somewhere? Nothing shows up under AC/heater problems and fixes. Thanks in advance

 

Just a thought, but might pay to pull the battery and tray and have a peek at that vacuum line that runs under the tray.
Been reports of it being compromised, I believe it powers the blend doors.

 

I’m sorry I should’ve included that, I did pull the battery as one of the screws from the
duo valves fell under it. I felt the the single line all the way back to the firewall and found no corrosion or it being compromised. I will though be buying new hose to prevent it from failing in the future as it is definitely an engineering flaw in my opinion. That part though was fine and in good condition. My bad for not putting that in the comment.