Has anyone figured out how to fix the driver's side window? It works intermittently, so normally I just don't use it. However, a body shop convinced me that they could fix it and it still only works intermittently. A new motor was bought...that wasn't it. The switch was put on the passenger side and worked...so that's not it. They said they found a loose wire, but then it only worked for a day until I opened it up this morning in the freezing cold and it wouldn't go back up. (Window always goes down....problem is that it will only go back up intermittently. It worked for a year...and then the last year it started the intermittent thing again.)

Any ideas will be greatly appreciated.

 

Go to the service manual section 8N page 111. It gives precise testing with voltages and ohm measurements; Basically you have a bad wire, connection, Body control module or ground. IF you are positive the switch and motor are OK.

 

Dear Zip439:

I hate to bother you, but I cannot find the service manual for the 2005 Crossfire. Is there anyway in which you can post the link? I found the SRT manual, but cannot find page 111 and I assume I need the coupe manual and not the SRT.

Thanks,
Natalie

 

All of the manuals are here as well as valuable info.

https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...s-repairs.html

 

link to service manual which you can download : https://mega.nz/#!3sllTLTa!_nRIjoZH3...Aw6qYKCJlbfMKA

 

 

Thank you everyone! I so appreciate the assistance. I can't wait to have an operating window again!

 

Dear Zip439:

Do you have any more ideas, as I have tried the following and after the money I have spent to get no results, I am about to give up and realize why I never attempted to fix the window before.
1. Got a new (used) window motor...only worked on the passenger side, not the drivers;
2. Downloaded the pages of the manual and followed the diagnostics;
3. Took the car to dealership to "reprogram" BCM.

Love my baby, but sick and tired of the "ghost in the machine."

 

Frustration is always part of the solution when fixing intermittent problems. My problem, and yours, seems to be that you are believing as facts what you are told by shop personnel/managers. If you are not doing this work yourself you really have no way of knowing if the motor was replaced or the switches were actually shifted to the opposite sides. The systems is rather simple when looking at the wiring diagram on page 8N-121.
When the window does not go up turn the overhead light on. Then watch the light as you push the window switch to raise the window. Does the light dim? Yes - you have the window jammed on something as it is trying to raise,but is being prevented, overloading the current draw and causing the light to dim. No - you have a problem with the switch, motor or wiring.
When the drivers side window does not go up you must also try moving the passenger side window. If it works, but the driver's still is inoperative, then the problem is isolated to just the driver's side. If neither window will operate then the problem is common to both sides and would be more than likely the ground or the Body Control module.
If you want to check if the wiring is bad you can run another wire directly from the motor to the body control module contact points as indicated on the page 8N-121. Open the driver's door panel, disconnect the plastic electrical connector at the motor and run two new wires directly from the motor's connection to the BCM connector; Black to number 12, another wire to number 13, then use the switch to raise the window. Does it go up? Yes, then one of your original wires are broken and needs to be replaced. If the window does not go up take the wires and put them directly on the battery, but be ready to remove them quickly as you may have them reversed and the window motor may try to go down even farther. (the motor is designed to run both ways depending on whether you are raising or lowering) If the window did not move when you placed the wires directly on the battery. Try reversing the polarity. If window still does not work in either direction you have a bad motor. If the window does go up then one of the original wires is bad and you will need to take those new wires you used to test and run them through the door, dash and into the engine compartment and up to the BCM to make a nice looking repair.
If all that tests OK, reconnect the cars original wiring to the motor and then do the same with the dark green/yellow wire at the switch and the number 39 connection point at the BCM. You will test to see if the wiring from/to the switch and the BCM is OK.
Were are you located? If the roads in your area are salted during the winter, or you are very close to the ocean your connection contacts are corroded. Those of us in warmer places won't have nearly the problem as those in colder climates.
The service manual is your friend; read it word for word.
All of this is much easier to type and talk about. However, if you want to fix this problem YOU or your significant other, will have to do it. I really wouldn't trust any shop to do it, but if you must then only go to an automotive electrical repair specialist. In other words seek out a specialist in electrical problems. A dealership or a regular automotive repair ship simple will not have the equipment, training or experience to do this job. AS I have already said; I WOULD NOT TRUST ANY OF THEM, BUT DO THE JOB MYSELF.
GOOD LUCK !

 

WOW Steve, good write-up ! You have obviously eaten your Wheaties this morning.
Did any of those tornado's come anywhere close to you ?

BTW, if anyone doubts Steve's expertise, keep in mind that he just completed building a shop with a LIFT.

 

Thanks George! No problem with tornadoes, just some rain,. I was thinking of you too, but at least you were farther north. Hope Max made it OK.
This cold winds really sucks! The shop has some heat, but I can't take it outside for even a short time.

 

 

Agreed. Steve's da man !

 

Oh my... thank so much for your thorough explanation! Now I wish I was as handy as you... so I could do it myself. Definitely know I didn't get screwed by my mechanic, but the dealer is another story. Unless you come to Texas, it looks like I will just won't use the window anymore... until I feel like throwing more money at the problem. (Not totally inept as my dad used to call me for his plumbing needs). Thanks again for your help! You're the best!

 

Okay, here's another theory: The travel of the windows is constrained by two limit switches.. When you raise the window, a switch is operated to disconnect the motor from the car's battery when the window reaches its upper limit; and when you lower the window, a second limit switch is actuated to disconnect the motor when the window reaches its fully retracted position. Both doors work this way, and they do this whether they are open or closed - that tells us that both switches on both doors are mounted inside the doors!

I believe the upper limit switch in your driver;s door frequently gets stuck in its "disconnect power" position; that's why you can't always raise the window!

 

 

Seems logical, BUT there are no limit switches. The travel limit of the window is control by the Body Control Model through the BCM's internal sensing circuit.

 

Thanks you...keeping these directions for when I get the bug to attempt the window again. I live in Dallas...

 

nataliefs, that is what I was afraid of; Read my response just above in post number #17

Best thing would be to find another Crossfire and switch out the BCMs. See if that would correct your problem, before digging any deeper.