Hey Guys,

As some of you may know, I originally had a SSB 2004 6-Speed Limited, sold it for a 2006 C55 AMG, the AMG was totaled, and moved back to a Black 2005 SRT-6.

Anyways, two weeks ago I installed a 35W HID kit from eBay. On my Limited I had bought a eBay HID kit and it worked well with "regular" sized metal ballasts. The new kit I bought and installed was of the same quality (i.e. cheap Chinese kit) but had the slim ballasts. The only thing I did different on the install this time around was that I ended up cutting the wires protruding from the bulbs and splicing them so that it was much easier to install the bulbs with the clips. For any of you who have done the HID conversion, you know how impossible it is to do the install and clip the bulbs in.

To the point now, the bulbs have worked great since install, however, I have noticed recently if I am starting the car up on a cold start and turn the lights on within 5 seconds of turning the engine on, the lights come on, and then for 1-2 seconds the gas gauge and RPM gauge appear to "sputter" down to empty (for the gas) and 0 RPMs (for the RPM gauge) and then once they reach the bottom of the gauge they spring back up and stay there where they should be.

I did search the forum and didn't find anyone with this problem. However, someone did say that HID bulbs do use significantly more power initially at start-up to power up the bulbs, then quickly settle down. So for example, at start up the bulbs would consume 85W and then would quickly go down to 35W.

Do you think this initial power draw could be throwing off the distribution of power and causing my gauges to act funky at start up? I am reluctant to simply ignore it, as I don't want to overheat the wiring and damage the wiring over time.

Any input is greatly appreciated!

 

Normal OEM wiring, or did you install a relay for the HID's with a large gauge wire directly from the battery to supply the power ?

( I.E. : power the relay/lights from FUSED battery B+, trigger the relay with the normal OEM wiring )

If no relay, you might consider going that route ... ( my 2 cents )

 

OEM wiring. Never seemed to have a problem with it in the Limited using OEM as well.

Also (and thanks for your input), what does this mean:
( I.E. : power the relay/lights from FUSED battery B+, trigger the relay with the normal OEM wiring )?

I am no electrical expert. Splicing wires is stretching my electrical capabilities.

Thanks.

 

Means install a dedicated relay. ( comes with some of the higher-end HID kits )
This relay is powered by a dedicated, fused, heavy gauge wire from the battery's positive terminal, or from one of the terminals in the little box you see directly in front of the battery.

The relay is then triggered by the wire that normally supplies the voltage to run the light, it then supplies the power to the HID using the dedicated power from the battery.

This way, the drain on the normal headlight wiring is almost 0, while all the power for the HID's is coming directly from the battery.

The same thing is sometimes done with a horn relay, when the aftermarket horn you are installing draws more current than the normal horns do.

 

I have this happen every once in a while. Not always - maybe 1 in 10 turning the lights on. I have not done anything about it in over a year.

 

Its the electrical noise of the ballest kicking in, a realy may asist the problem, a capacitor may be a better choice. About 100 microfarads to the + and Ground terminals should do it AT THE HID POWER IN LEADS> Woody

 

Good catch, Woody, I didn't think of that.
A lot easier than installing the relay.

 

Thanks guys! So again, this really isn't an area of my expertise and clearly you guys know what you are talking about, I did a google shopping search for a 100 microfarad capacitor and came up with this:

Google

Which one of these should I buy?

Thanks again.

 

Also, any chance replacing the battery might help? Still running the stock battery and 7 years is a bit long IMHO to be running the stock battery anyways. I bought it a month ago with the stocker in there and have replaced the battery in my Limited previously so it should be straight forward.

 

I might help, and it certainly won't hurt.
I have read a LOT of threads on here where an old battery was the cause of any number of issues.
I have been advised to avoid the 14 pound battery and go with a normal battery. That 14 pounder is for racing.
( the 14 # battery is the one you see on the NeedsWings site, I am NOT saying that you should not buy from Rob, ( I do ), just that the only battery he offers is the lightweight one.)

 

Thanks again everyone for the input. Went ahead and bought a Wal-mart branded "NeverStart" (EverStart) battery today for a cool $100. Installed piece of cake. So far it seems to have fixed the problem but will update in a few days after a couple cold starts. Considering my SRT spent most of its life in more temperate climes (SC and southern NC) and the battery is 7 years old now, I wouldn't be surprised if the combination of its age and the cold weather start ups has been taking its toll.

If this solves the problem I will be happy as I don't know much about capacitors and resistors.

 

It's good that you replaced yours. 7 years on a OEM battery seems like you are pushing you luck.

Mine has been replaced and I still get the guage thing every once in a while.

 

You have the same problem?

Well, started her up cold this morning with the new battery and, unfortunately, still got the same gauge fluttering.

With regards to installing the 100 microfarads capacitor, is this the component I need to buy? http://www.amazon.com/Rubycon-Thru-H...0081214&sr=1-1

Thanks!

 

Anyone - is that the right capacitor?

 

The cap was Woody's idea, I don't know capacitors from squat .......

 

Yes 50 volts is about right and it must be as close electrically/physically to the hid light power in (12 volt) leads as possible to improve the application. Bigger may assist but not over 300 microfarads, I suggest ( per light module).

As the battery ages it gains internal resistance or lossy internal structure. The cap stores charge and acts to keep the power system more stable, ie less noisy especially for lights that are basically high voltage switching supplies that backfeed lots of hash - static - or noise depending on your background.

Cheers, Woody