I think I remember someone asking about this before, but I can't find the thread.
The problem is, when it rains. and either of the side windows are just open slightly, rain water works its way up the windshield onto the roof (coupe), and at that point it works its way to the tops of the windows, then drips down inside. This is worse on the drivers side, because the wiper pushes the rain water right up to the "A" pillar. I know the easy answer is to shut the windows, but I like fresh air. Has anyone else done something about this? I don't think there are "rain shields" made for the Crossfire, but maybe someone has tackled this problem and won.

 

Howard, I can't imagine that rain shields could look any good on a Crossfire.....plus I thought you had a roadster??

 

Absolutely agree that "normal" rain shields would detract from the design of our cars.
I just thought that, because there are some very crafty and clever minds here, that someone has come up with a "neat" way of doing this, and not detract from the XF lines.
BTW: I have the SRT roadster, AND an n/a coupe that is my everyday driver. Lucky me ..... LOL

 

FWIW, that problem was just bugging me seriously. I found that trimbright has 7/16" rain gutter for cars w/o built-in gutters, it's in balck, and fits perfectly along the rubber top edge above the window. I tried it for 1.59 per foot, 3M tape holds it on and I found it does a credible job, although I haven't fully tested it in a heavy rain. But for the lighter rain we did have it worked. I ran it from the bottom of the pillar up along the window and stopped it just aft of the driver's window. It sticks out only a bit so it's not noticeable. It may have a small noise from the air going past it, but that's not noticeable enough for me to worry about when it provides that benefit to me. Putting it from the bottom of the pillar up seemed to be the ticket because alot of water gets trapped at the base because of the space there when the wipers are on. Then it starts flowing up to the corner of the window where it starts leaking. This seemed to have allowed the wind to carry it down the gutter before it could build up sufficiently to come in.

I tried at first to mold the entire strip from pillar to the rear window but the curve is too much, so this weekend I'm going to add a small section just for balance so it'll be a two piece install, but being black you won't see it.

Another benefit I noticed is that it seems to break the turbulence coming in the open window at speed, and now I can open my window alot farther without that buffeting in the hatch area.

Search trimbrite rain gutter on the web, and you'll find it. I ordered it and it was delivered within the week. I bought 25 feet of it, as you need almost 12 feet on each side for a total cover. But it does seem to work

 

Hey mdaniels4 ...... see ... this is exactly what I may be looking for. You da man...... pictures would be nice ...... I'm looking it up now. thanx

EDIT: searched for trimbrite rain gutter, and didn't bring anything up regarding this.
Do you have a website, or linky?

 

I think I found it Blu, it's trimco, 5/8 thickness. I have the bookmark at home on my laptop so I'll link it to you this evening.

 

Brought up Trimco, and found their rain drip molding. Looks OK ... thanx. Your additional linky would be good to confirm.

 

here's where I got it from, and here's the link to the picture. It was the 5/8" tall, 7/16" width sticking out. if you pm me, I just took pics from my car on my cell and it'll give you an idea of what it looks like, and how it blends on the roof line of the cross. just give me your cell number and I'll send them off.

http://www.brandsport.com/trmg-dr02-01.html

 

I would gladly go with the WeatherTech type deflectors. If you have tinted windows, you probably wouldn't notice them much. You can paint them to match if you want them more invisible.

I suppose if enough people go to their web site and request them, we might get something done.

Application Request Form

 

With the help of mdaniels4, I ordered the molding above and installed it. Looks great, and blends very well with car lines. Pics below ...... YAY!!! Thanx DanDSC02447.JPG

DSC02445.JPG

DSC02446.JPG

 

Looks good Howard. Did you do the entire top or cut them right after the door? I haven't had the chance to see how they work-we.'ve had no rain to speak of for 3 weeks but the little we did have they seemed to work.

 

HeHeHe .... it's supposed to rain tomorrow. Bring it on. LOL I stopped right after the door. It appears that the rubber moldings above the rear quarter windows are softer, and have some compression play in them. I was afraid that the 3M sticky might not have a secure hold.

 

That really does not look bad at all....but, I just try to keep out of the rain as much as possible. If it were an everyday driver, that is a mod I would think I would want...

 

Here's an update on the effectiveness of the molding. Raining today. Medium rain, and the shield/gutter worked perfectly. Especially when the driver side wiper brought the rain up to the pillar. It was then that the water would drip in the cabin all along the window top, and drip onto the arm and leg. Window was open 1 to 2 inches and the only spot where an occasional drip entered was at the "seam" where the pillar molding met the top molding. Once I "weld" this with a soldering iron, this also should be eliminated. Thanks again to mdaniels4 for the lead. This is a great "mod" if you like fresh air when its raining.

 

What do you think the chances are of cutting a v-notch on the bottom side (not into the "gutter" part) and getting it to contour in one piece? Or maybe even a couple of small "V" 's... It's pretty much that time of year here and I don't care for the dripping into the car.

 

I don't think it possible, because cutting a "v" notch might distort the inside of the molding enuff to make it not stick thoroughly. The intersection of the pillar molding with the top molding makes bending the rain gutter too difficult. IMHO, mitering the joint is the way to go. In a PM from mdaniels4, he suggested the possibility of using a silicone sealant that might seal it also. I don't think it would take much. Might go that way .......

 

That was my secondary consideration if the notching wasn't doable. Guess it's time to get an order in. I can at least play with a few inches of it to see if it will notch and contour, worst case silicon at the mating ends.

 

That was my take too. I think heating it is the best to get that top curve which is tight, But looking at it, after IBLUBYU mentioned it, I can see how this would happen. So I need to get some rain here to see for myself but I think a clear. or even a black silicone build up at that spot only will do it. I can see how the water would pool at that spot as Howard said. But in the end, if it stops it from literally streaming in as it is I'm a happy guy. Glad that Howard was able to confirm for me that this worked as I haven't had the luxury of my own testing yet I knew something had to be done, and I was lucky enough to find this. Rudy wanted to know if it worked because he had the same issue on his C class he has. Rudy, it does work. and hardly noticeable at all.

By the way, I tested it and for whatever reason, it DID break up the air suck in the back hatch area when the window is down 1/2 way at 70 mph. all the way down-Not. but 1/2 way down for a 7/16 strip unbelievable. Just that. who would ave thought?

 

Our choices seemed to be. (1) Heat weld with a solder gun
(2)V notch and heat to bend
(3)silicone to seal.....clear or black
BUT .....I just tried liquid electrical tape (black) and it seems to work. Used a fine cheap artist brush and just put in inside the channel. Tried it on a small sample, and it doesn't seem to peel or rub off. Time will tell. LOL

 

Surfing the web and ran across this.. sold by 5' increments. 15' do the trick?
https://www.vinylgraphics.net/shopexd.asp?id=5755