I know there are countless discussions about this, and multiple solutions with some headlight restorer kits, however, I just wanted to share what I have done with you folks.

I have tried some headlight restorer kits myself, and I didn't have much luck with them, and they cost a lot, and requires quite a bit of work in my opinion.

If you follow what I have done, you will save some cash, and time on labor.

You will need:

-2000 grit sand paper -4 bucks
-Any scratch remover (I bought the cheapest "Scratch out" (yellow bottle) for 5 bucks.
-Microfiber applicator pad - 2 bucks.
-Any wax (this is optional)

Step 1:
Wet the sand paper real good, and start sanding the headlight out. Make sure to keep the sand paper wet through out the sanding job. You will immediately start to feel that, the headlight gets smoother. Keep going until you sanded everywhere real good.

Step 2:
Wipe the headlight down completely, and start applying the scratch remover with the microfiber applicator pad. Be generous, rub it all over the headlight real good. Make sure to get all the scratches out, and once you are done, with a clean, soft cloth, wipe the headlight down. You are done.

Optional:
You can apply some wax, and apply to headlight to get it a lot shinier. It is up to you. My pictures are without wax. I would apply some wax, but I couldn't find my wax.

Here are the pics. total 15 minutes.

BEFORE:

SAM_0003.jpg

SAM_0002.jpg

SAM_0001-1.jpg

AFTER:

SAM_0007.jpg

SAM_0005.jpg

SAM_0006.jpg

SAM_0005-1.jpg

 

Nice job.

Looking at your "before" pics, it appears that the clearcoat has already been removed from a previous restore. 3/4 of the job is sanding off the clearcoat. Probably a good buffing would have yielded the same results.

If you want your efforts to last, wax is not an option, it is a must. Better yet, one made for plastic.

James

 

Ok I'll go get some 2000 and give this a try before I go pay the man to do it.
I'll definitely do before and after cuz yer not gonna believe how bad my headlight covers are!

 

Great job. I would have tried 2500 - 3000 grit, but this seems to have done a very good job.

BTW, I moved this to the "Detail Shop" forum.

 

Nice job Muscle!

 

Thanks guys!!

Tighed1, definitely give this a try. You will be surprised. make sure to sand her real good, and then buff the scratches out real good with the scrach remover. Use A LOT of scratch remover.

 

May want to consider having them recleared next time you sand on them, it will last a lot longer (years) and keep in mind, there is only so much plastic there to sand away.

Nice write up Muscle.

 

I have not done this yet and I hope that I do not have to for a long time. I have some experience in metal polishing and the same principle is involved, what has to be achieved is that the surface has to be given the smallest scratches as possible and this is arrived at by using the finest grits.

If you use 2000 grit paper and then use a polish on it you may only polish the tops of the scratches made by the 2000 grit, you will not quickly polish the bottoms of the scratches. The eye sees the reflection from the polished peaks but the bottoms of the scratches are not polished. This type of finish will give more flare from the headlight as the light will be bent by the angled faces of the scratches.

To achieve the best finish you should sand with lower and lower grits in steps until you reach the grit size of the liquid polish.

There are wet and dry papers available that have a consistent grit size of 1 micron (8000 grit), by comparison 2000 grit has a nominal (some more and some less) grit size of 10 microns. The one micron grit will actually give a highly polished surface.

Polished surfaces are scratched surfaces which have varying depths of scratches, the higher the polish the shallower the scratches and vice versa.

There is a method to achieve extremely high polishes in plastics. This involves taking a part molded in an extremely highly polished mold, coating it with an extremely volatile liquid that evaporates almost at once. This liquefies the surface for an instant, reducing the superfine scratches even less. Expensive process.

 

Yes, I thought about it, but I have been too lazy to do it. When I have time, I will clear them.

I just recently sprayed VHT nightshades to my Mustang's tail lights, cleared, sanded, buffed, waxed them, and here is how they turned out.

2.jpg

3.jpg

I will get those headlights cleared sometime soon

 

I had a few minutes before it got dark and did a small area and this is gonna work!

Thanks!

 

Now, if we can just find a way to clean them from the inside. Mine are fine from the outside, but I lost the vent tube from inside the bay and water got in the light. It took awhile for it to dry and left some water marks inside the lense.

 

I have thought that if the unit was removed from the car it could be filled with a soapy water, shaken and then flushed. After which it could be rinsed with water containing some of that dish washer fluid Jet Dry which does a good job of keeping spots of drinking glasses washed in the machine. Placed lens up in a warm spot it could be left to dry.
I have a cobweb in one of mine strangely enough.

 

Not sure about that since the wiring for all the bulbs are enclosed.

 

I did not mean flood it, just pour the water in the marker bulb hole and splash it over the lens area and tip it out the same hole and then warm and dry it lens up.
I have seen pictures of these units that look like aquariums a little water should be no problem.
I am not saying I would want to try it first, let someone who's more desperate do it.
I have not had a peek down that bulb hole so I am assuming it is possible.

 

I use a pair of magnets to clean my fish tank from the outside so I do not have to get all wet. I am thinking of wrapping the magnets in micro fiber, spray a little quick detailer, and drop one in my headlight (with a string attached, of course ) then I can use the one on the outside of the lense to direct the other one to clean the inside of the lense. Pull out the inner magnet when done. Viola

 

I have used scratch out on my headlights for the last few years. I just use it without sanding first. I have had great results. It also works great on plastic convertible top windows. If you have a buffer it makes the job a bit easier.

 

I like your French, viola, how's my Italian, cello?. LOL

 

Been there, done that, John. Mixed results.
Max's method of pouring in about 3-4 ounces of 99.9% pure methanol worked best and was much easier to do.
Just pour it in the eyebrow hole, put a finger over the hole and shake like making a Bond vodka martini.
Drain it out, then set it out in the deep south summer sun for about 2 hours.

( Actually, Max's directions are a bit different, but then he's some kind of crazy atomic scientist ...... )
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...-assembly.html

 

There are a few similarities between Max and Homer Simpson, red car, working with reactors, lets hope it stops there. LOL

 

I resemble that, guys!

Doh!