Reminder
PHOTOS REQUIRED AS PROMISED.

 

Finally some pictures.

Since the dealership took apart the interior for me, I can't help with advice on that process.

This is the central locking module. It had water damage to external electrical connecters and an internal problem with corrosion on some contacts.
Almost hidden by the frame rail is a silver shape that is the alarm control module. This one had corroded connections and a broken wire from the wiring harness, but no interior damage.



After removing the wiring connectors this needs to be removed:



this is next:



And here are the goodies inside.



The pump motor would not shut off properly and I found the contacts to be dirty. They are a bit hard to see behind the green plastic bracket.

 

The gas filler bowl gasket was not sealing and water would leak into the fender area:



To remove the assembly you must diconnect the actuator from inside the fender cavity. The plunger and mating point has a locking tab that you can see by my thumb. It slides apart easily when you do it right. I was wedged in the trunk with my hands out of view when I removed it, so I didn't actually see what happened.



After the plunger is removed you must remove the latch thing. It is another task you must do by feel rather than sight. The picture shows it already out of the car. You must do it from inside the trunk.



Here's another view to clairify what you can't see:



The filler assembly is held in place by 4 tabs. I wish I had a picture for you, but I don't. The tabs are accessed from inside the fender area (naturally), and you will have to find them by feel. There are two on top and two on bottom, and you can depress them with a hard edge like the blade of a flat screw driver. They are a real pain to get to. Also, get a helper on the outside to pull on the assembly as you work your way around the tabs so they do not snap back into place before you get all four done. The door hinge extends behind the fender and makes the removal more difficult. Protect the fender with something or you will scuff the paint as the filler door grinds against it. I used a large refrigerator magnet, but you could use a few layers of tape, too.

A bead of black silicone does the trick. Just reinstall the filler housing and wipe away the excess.

 

Nice pics, thanks.

 

The leak that filled the trunk wells with water was found under the SRT wing mounting panel. A foam gasket was out of place and allowed water to flow into the trunk. It was completely undetectable, as the interior panels hid the flow as well as its source. Your only indication of a leak may be a bit of wetness under the trunk floor panel.



And another view:



A less significant leak was around the wing stud o-rings:



A bead of silicone was used around the panel and around the studs to seal out water. I hope I never have to remove those parts, as they will be firmly stuck in place.

 

As a reminder... You can remove the two rubber plugs in the trunkwells without taking apart the interior of your car. Just crawl underneath the car with a screw driver and a pliers and work them out. Opening these drainholes will at least prevent an accumulation of water that will damage your electrical components. I did take a drift pin (a tapered punch) and used it to deform the holes. I slid it up into the hole and levered backwards, bending the front edge of the opening downward and the rear edge upward. I thought that this would help prevent water from streaming in as the car moved forward on wet roads. I drove the car at highway speeds in the rain and found no water in the trunkwells.

 

How does the central locking module have anything to do with your fog lights or parking light? I did discover water in my trunk in both of those locations...The white connector on the module has corrosion and some of the pins broke off when disconnected...Another concern of mine is that my conv top wont open, it just beeps like the storage compart is not attached...I also noticed some kind of substance under my passenger seat...I'm wondering if it is hydraulic fluid for the top....not sure...any ideas???

 

I'm sorry I missed your post last year-- I hope your problems are fixed by now.

If you decide to fix your connector pins, first check to see which ones are actually being used. Not all the ports in the 18 pin connectors have wires attached to them.

I cant say for sure why the fog lights are associated with the CLM, but the central locking module communicates with other modules throughout the car. A computer chip located somewhere in the system has the task of telling the bells to whistle.The modules are dependent on each other as well as the signals received from sensors and actuator devices.That is why bad connections (and even conditions like a weak battery) have an adverse effect on seemingly unrelated things.

 

im dealin with a similar problem, only my exterior security lights wont shut off. I have my trunk apart right know, along with the security module..which was soaked. i will post pics tonight..if i can figure out how.. hehe

 

Just thought i would add,

3 weeks ago i noticed that my rear carpet was a bit damp after a large rain storm we had. Sure enough that weekend i pulled the spoiler off, and you can see where the gasket was barely touching. Plus the factory foam gasket itself is pretty so so..

I applied a good ammount of RTV sealant aroudn the wing mounting bolts, as well as between the wing plate and hatch, and shes been bone dry ever since.

I didnt have the extreme water issue that others had, but any amount of water isnt good.

So it would be wize for most of the SRT owners to check their wing, and add some new sealant.

 

I know this is a old post but I'm having the same problem nothing locks/unlocks with the remote, but all locks work when car is started and you use the lock button inside the car. Please help ... 04 crossfire coupe

 

Checked the batteries in the fob?
If you have just installed new batteries you may have to reset the fob to the car.

 

Sounds like the battery for the key fob needs to be replaced...If the doors lock with the central locking switch then that is most likely the cause

 

Sorry ... I guess I should have said its both key fob and the battery's have been replaced. Also tried to reprograming the fobs with the pushing lock or unlock twice and turning the key to run.. Nothing worked.

 

You put the batteries in correctly I guess.
When did they stop working?
Did they ever work?
What is the whole story.

 

Yes they both worked untill I replaced the battery in the car. It sat all winter and when i charged the battery again in the spring they worked a couple of times but never worked again... I also had to replace the crankshaft sensor before i started driving it again . Yes the battery's are in the fob right. This car has been a problem from the day I got it. I have fixed everything but this.

 

Where did everybody go? I'm sure with all the great people on this forum someone knows what's going on with my car!

 

Hello hello, is anyone out there? ...........
Do you have a garage door opener? If so does it work on the transmitter in the car. I think its all part of the system.
If you press lock and unlock buttons for five seconds or so does the red window on the fob flash?
The key reset was done correctly, the key button was pressed away from the car and turned within 30 seconds?

 

Yes the garage door opener works..And the red lights flash. I'll try standing away from the car and try it but this is the first I have read about not being in the car to do it. Thank you

 

That's what it says anyway.