So Ive been looking all over the forum this morning and I cannot find anything so I'm hoping you can help. Is there such a thing as a 6000k halogen? If so where can I get some. I would like to get teh highs and lows form my car. I have looked at the HID's but Im afraid I would mess something up during installation. Any thoughts

 

Regular Halogens cant produce the 6Kelvin as the HID kits. You have to have a ballast and igniter to get to that tempature...some advertise that their bubls produce 6000k but no. The kit is very easy to install...I can change my bulbs out in less than 5 min.

 

What kit do you use?

 

I have the McCollough 6k...I have 8K on my Mustang....I like the 6K better..the 8K is alittle to blue.

 

Do have a link to website?

 

seriously save your money on that TYPE_ RRRRRRRR bullshit,

do not buy HALOGEN BULBS.

buy this set of HID in 55watt in a 5000k or 6000k seriously do not go over 6000k, i have 6000k on a 55watt kit and for me it is too much color. the higher the K the lower the brightness of the output and the spread and intensity. stock bimmers and mercs run around 4100l-4300k.

55watt kits are brighter but honestly only run like 45-48 watts, the tend to wash color a little so a 6000k can look like a 5000k. on regular kits do not go 6000k too much color and reduce your light.

i used the regular kit on my car for them which was a slight bit cheaper and i have no issue with light out warning or anything like other on the board. I tapped right into the h7 plug without any splicing at all.

pick up the 55 watt 5000k-6000k
pick up the 35 watt 4000k-5000k


http://www.ddmtuning.com/products/DD...it-101-85.html

 

i dont have pics of the driver side but there is a huge spot by the driver side headlight there is a bolt that is already there just find a m6 nut and you should be good,

i used a piece of lexan/plexi glass since it will not conduct to the sheet metal, it had high temp rating. just ask homedepot to cut the sheets for free

 

Driverside mounting is a bit tricking...I just tywrapped mine under the headlight through to 2 holes on frame. Tight as a garden hose doo! I agree the higher the Kelvin the less light output you get... So if color is what you want go high...but 6k is a happy medium....I like the clean white with a hint of blue.

 

What do you think about the 55 watt, h7, 8000k kit. Do you think that would have good light output? and look like that stock German car blue?

 

the 8000k will be a stronger bluer purple color.

i will try to get night time pics of my kit the 55watt kit is nice but in my opinion not sufficient a oem ballast like the one's on g35 are good quality and easy to fit in tight spots and a phillips bulb 4300k is a great mix and is better than the 55 watt kit.

if you want to start with basics go with the 55 watt kit as that will be a good compromise. after if you want an upgrade do what i am doing right now which is retrofit a OEM HID projector in place of the stock halogen projector. I think stock projector is like a 2.5 inch and OEM HID are typically 3". the acura tl are bixenon so they do high beam and low beam. i will run 35 watt ballast to begin with and then replace it with a 50 watt boosted ballast.

 

No. Do not get the 8000k kit.

Yes, go no higher then 6000k as previously stated. I would try to get 4300k (some vendors dont sell them) or 5000k.

The blue color on stock cars with HID's (mercedes, escalades, bmw, etc) is not produced from the bulb color. They use around 4300k.. the color is mostly produced by the cutoff from their projectors..

 

Since the 55w kit decreases some of the bulb color, would you say the 55w 4500k or 5000k will most closely resemble OEM?

Oh and Ive read mounting on the driver-side is a bit hard to do. Couldnt you just splice into the wires and move the ballast as far away from the light as you needed to get a easy/good mounting spot?

 

guys not sure why people are saying that driver side mounting is hard that was the easiest plus you have so much space to work with.

the passenger side has the overflow tank that needs to me removed so you can install the bulb and mount ballast. i didn't need to remove the anything on the driver side just make a mounting plate.

i will take pics and post tonight.

my kit came with spade terminals that i just plugged into the stock h7 plug. the wires are already fused at 15 amp on each side which is good for hid and i believe it is a 16 gauge wire.

i normally recommend running your own harness to the battery direct using 12 gauge or 14 gauge wire.


once my retro is done i am gonna fab up a harness for both low beam and fog in HID.

 

4500k or 5000k will be good to get you to stock the 4500k will be a pure white color with maybe a slight hint of warmness to it slight hint of yellow, the 5000k will be close to stock and have some coolness to it slight hint of blue.

 

Awesome. thanks for the info. I look forward to seeing your install pics so I know what to do.

 

See these two threads.. Me & Maxicichon should have everything covered.. (btw, yes, the driver side is the easy side, you should do that side first. The passenger side sucks and there is no room, it is not necessary to remove the overflow tank but highly recommended)

https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...ad.php?t=28555

https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...ad.php?t=28907

 

Not in an SRT-6, my friend, It's stuffed over there!

 

you are right in the srt the have the IC pump there little bit more work but N/A is not bad at all. there is plenty of dead space in the little compartment in the fender well as well for the srt or the n/a.

 

here you go you guys are lucky it started raining so i said screw it. well i stopped by the gas station on my way home and had my camera so i snapped a couple pics.

again if you have a N/A crossfire the driver side is easy and pasenger side it a little tougher.

if you have an srt well sucks for you both sides are tough, that is the price you pay for all that speed and crappy IC. lol