Black goes to the double black wires. If I remember right the the nuts are 10mm there is a stud on each side that many of us have used.

 

That's correct the ground goes to the double wire on the bulb connector. You will need a couple of 6mm x 100 thread pitch nuts for the studs (10 mm hex)

 

Just an update. The size of nut needed is 6M in case anyone else needs this information and yes, the black wire goes on to the double black side.

The lights are awesome. Super bright and the install was pretty easy, though I can't seem to get the passenger side aligned just right. I'll need to keep working on it.

Compared to my wifes lexus, I think my 5000K are brighter.

I recommend this purcahse.

Oh, also the light sensor ballast must have been fixed because the light does not come on under any order of turning car and/or lights off in any order.

 

Guess I missed your replies, thanks for the info. Took 2 runs to AutoZone to get the right nut.

 

Installed them last night AWESOME lights..super easy to install!

 

any funny flickering etc? who makes the ballast or is there a name stamped or at least the place of origin?

 

im having the same problem with my passenger light? i think it might have somthing to do with the quality of this product? maybe bad bulb or messed up ballast? either way they still look really nice at night!

 

had them for a couple of days. 6k on a 2004.. I am seeing radio interference specially w/ weaker stations. and i do have some flickering in one of the bulbs it's like there's a wire in the bulb that bounces around and so you can see the shadow of that in the light on the road. Still think they're awesome.

 

Thanks for the honest comments guys. im considering piecing together my kid using PHILLIPS ballast. Its about 4x more than your kit though but i had this setup on my srt4 with 0 issues.

 

At night I turn on my head lights and pull out of my garage, and usually abot two blocks aways I will notice a very quick flicker as if it is part of the warming up process, after that quick flicker they are rock solid. My other car has OEM HID's and they are not near as bright as these. They almost seem too bright, but no one ever flashes their lights at me, so must be fine. Overall, I am still very pleased and would buy them again.

 

I already had McCulloch's for my low beams and decided to upgrade the high and fog lights to these, the 5000K version. They were $72/each shipped and they are good in my opinion. They don't throw a lights out warning and do interfere with my FM reception (but that maybe because I have a Pioneer deck with Supertuner IIId). They differ from the McCulloch's because it's all one box instead of two like the McCulloch's. For this reason, the ballast box is a little bit larger but as easy to manage. I definitely recommend this HID kit because of the value and they actually go from off to full brightness faster than the McCulloch's.

 

so I'm thinking about getting the HID's, but I have a couple problems..

1) I can't seem to find these lights on ebay anymore.. Only ones that cost $150ish.. Can we get a new link?
2) You guys still having problems with FM reception? Does it make a huge difference in reception? That will be a deciding factor in whether I upgrade or not..

Thanks!

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...190560210&rd=1

 

Because the HID are 35 watt and must have a ballast they should each flicker 1 time during warm up.... This is because the ballast has to complete the voltage converting. after the 1 time flicker thay should not flicker anymore. As for the radio reception, its RFI. The best way to reduce this is to go to radio shack and purchase some RFI filters. They snap onto the wires of the ballast at both ends.

 

Hey everyone . . . the HID kits sound like a great upgrade !! Read thru the whole thread, as well as checked out some pictures of installations . . . here is a thought from an electrical guy . . . I would SUGGEST using a CIRCUIT BREAKER in place of the fuse that is supplied with the kit . . . there are CIRCUIT BREAKERS that are made (whatever amperage) that will fit the holder for the fuse.

Why a CIRCUIT BREAKER ??? Think about it . . . you are zooming around at night . . something (short circuit or overload) causes the fuse to OPEN (or OPERATE - fuses DO NOT BLOW !!!), now you have NO headlight !!! Stop the car, fumble around for a spare fuse (if you have any) and change . . hopefully the problem does not cause this replacement fuse to OPEN !!! Now, same scenario, but with a CIRCUIT BREAKER, the breaker will TRIP and OPEN . . . reset it self and away you go !!!

You can get these CIRCUIT BREAKERS at any automotive supply store. A DEFINETE must have for this !

My two cents worth . . .

Cheers

Mark
A12rag

 

To install these, is there a way to not drill or splice anything??

 

You just pull the fuse out of the holder (it is supplied with the HID kit from the looks of things) and then put the CIRCUIT BREAKER into the holder. No drilling, splicing, etc. . . .

 

Whoops, pushed the wrong quote button

Meant to regard the installation without splicing / drilling with the HID's as a whole.

 

I'm the one that was having FM reception problems. The ebay seller sent me new ballasts that took care of the problem. Reception is now good.
BTW each headlight is fused, so if you blow a fuse, only one light will go out.
nox1s
The kit is totally plug and play, no splicing or drilling.

 

Whew!! I'm excited, I just ordered them yesterday!

BTW, You live in Brighton, you don't know a McGuckin or Gandolfo family do you?

Friends of mine!