WOW ... stop the rust while you can ...
Re: WOW ... stop the rust while you can ...
Andrew,
Do you think if might be caused by you washing your car at the self service wash with the high pressure hose? The extra force that the pressure washer puts out could be forcing the water into that seal more than a regular household garden hose could produce.
Possible??
Do you think if might be caused by you washing your car at the self service wash with the high pressure hose? The extra force that the pressure washer puts out could be forcing the water into that seal more than a regular household garden hose could produce.
Possible??
Re: WOW ... stop the rust while you can ...
Originally Posted by The Toy
Andrew,
Do you think if might be caused by you washing your car at the self service wash with the high pressure hose? The extra force that the pressure washer puts out could be forcing the water into that seal more than a regular household garden hose could produce.
Possible??
Do you think if might be caused by you washing your car at the self service wash with the high pressure hose? The extra force that the pressure washer puts out could be forcing the water into that seal more than a regular household garden hose could produce.
Possible??
link: https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...highlight=rust
and
link: https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...highlight=rust
Re: WOW ... stop the rust while you can ...
I sure don't know how I missed that thread back in May, but that car was in Arizona, so I guess it's a problem even in the "DRY" climates.
It only took me about 15 minutes per door to pull the seal, dry it off, and apply the silicone spray, so I guess that's going to be a periodical "detailing" routine from now on. I just hope it doesn't loosen up my seal so that it starts to come out on its own.
Oh well, no car is perfect.
It only took me about 15 minutes per door to pull the seal, dry it off, and apply the silicone spray, so I guess that's going to be a periodical "detailing" routine from now on. I just hope it doesn't loosen up my seal so that it starts to come out on its own.
Oh well, no car is perfect.
Re: WOW ... stop the rust while you can ...
i have begun my treatment of the rust...
i think my process & product choice will work great as an end result. i am keeping the repair area concealed beneath the rubber trim. i will take many pics through out the repair... as well as the finished results. this should be complete by tomorrow... i am in the drying process b/t coats... final coat tomorrow in the am.
i think my process & product choice will work great as an end result. i am keeping the repair area concealed beneath the rubber trim. i will take many pics through out the repair... as well as the finished results. this should be complete by tomorrow... i am in the drying process b/t coats... final coat tomorrow in the am.
Re: WOW ... stop the rust while you can ...
So I want to check myself beneath this rubber seal whether there is rust there or not, but I am worried that I will permanently damage the bond between paint and rubber trim. How do I safely remove and then reinstall the rubber trim that is supposed to be removed to check for rust? Today I tugged at the rubber part and it looks to be glued on, and I am worried that if I tug even more the rubber seal will never be able to attach back on to the door!
Re: WOW ... stop the rust while you can ...
Golfdude, when I pulled my seal away from its original position, there seemed to be a very light, hit or miss applied material on the back of the seal that I thought looked like a "caulking". It had no sticky or adhesive value to it at all, if it ever did. The rubber seal itself is oversized for the area it needs to fit into, and that alone holds it in place.
The seal has to pulled out if you want to see if there is any surface rust beginning to form behind it, there really is no other way to check it.
When I pulled mine out, I only did a section at a time, about 8 to 10 inch I'd say. After I wiped the moisture dry and sprayed the silicone spray on the entire area, I just pushed the seal back in place, and moved on to the next section.
I only used the silicone as a protectant against future water build up since there was no rust showing anywhere under my seal. If you find the tell-tale signs of surface rust, do not use silicone because it will prevent any type of paint from bonding to the damaged area, that needs to be repaired.
I was a little apprehensive about pulling the seal out of its original position myself, for fear of it not wanting to go back in place, but it went back just by pushing it with my fingers and no tools.
Just remember, what Andrew is doing is a repair, what I did is hopefully a prevention.
The seal has to pulled out if you want to see if there is any surface rust beginning to form behind it, there really is no other way to check it.
When I pulled mine out, I only did a section at a time, about 8 to 10 inch I'd say. After I wiped the moisture dry and sprayed the silicone spray on the entire area, I just pushed the seal back in place, and moved on to the next section.
I only used the silicone as a protectant against future water build up since there was no rust showing anywhere under my seal. If you find the tell-tale signs of surface rust, do not use silicone because it will prevent any type of paint from bonding to the damaged area, that needs to be repaired.
I was a little apprehensive about pulling the seal out of its original position myself, for fear of it not wanting to go back in place, but it went back just by pushing it with my fingers and no tools.
Just remember, what Andrew is doing is a repair, what I did is hopefully a prevention.
Not A Happy Christmas Present
Andrew I don't know whether to thank you or curse you, I also have the same problem as you and the others. I haven't checked the passenger side yet, but I am guessing it is as bad. This is very odd especially here in Idaho, we have cars with no paint exposed to the elements that never rust. I think this area is one of the only places where there are still some Chevy pick-ups that were made in the 80 with original fenders. This car has never seen a salted road and probably only been driven in the rain 5 to 10 times total in 12K miles, it will be three years in March. I am concerned it may not be a result of moisture but possibly a reaction similar to electrolytic corrosion or simply contaminates in the metal. I notice that the rust spots appear only on the vertical section where the weld is and not the horizontal section of the track. The car is going to remain storage until April so I think I will clean up the rust spots and not treat them with anything until March and see if the grow. I also find it odd that +fireamx car show no sign what so ever since are cars are close in age. If the rust doesn't come back between next week when I clean it off and March then I'll treat them with the Rust Bullet treatment too!
However, if they do grow back in the absence of moisture I am not sure Rust Bullet will fix it and I will be having a heart to heart talk with the dealer.
However, if they do grow back in the absence of moisture I am not sure Rust Bullet will fix it and I will be having a heart to heart talk with the dealer.
Last edited by Idaho; 01-29-2012 at 01:33 AM.
Re: WOW ... stop the rust while you can ...
Originally Posted by Idaho
Andrew I don't know whether to thank you or curse you, I also have the same problem as you and the others.
or at least lowered the future high demand of new/replacement doors from chrysler in years to come.
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the problem appears to be at the weld of the 2 pieces of sheet metal.
the manufacture should have used the rubberized caulk at the seam before painting the doors. (see pic of my bmw's lower door & trunk at the seam line):
IMG_4577.jpg
IMG_4580.jpg