Thems fighting words in all parts! Nothing better than driving from El Paso to Marshall along I-20. Yes, it takes a full day to do it, but what else do you have to do?

 

Well, I could be splitting rocks with the 'chain gang' on the I-20.

 

I just did the Rust Bullet today. FYI, Rust Bullet comes in a silver color standard. Probably a better match for all you that couldn't find an Alabaster...........

 

The sign says, "Don't Mess With Texas!" We take that seriously. We only give those chain gangs ball peen hammers to break those boulders with!

 

Over the past few days I checked my newly-acquired SRT-6 coupe for this problem, and then repaired it.

I relied on the out-of-state Chrysler dealer I bought the car from to check for rust in the door channels. They assured me they pulled the rubber seals in both doors and found everything "clean as a whistle" before I paid for the car. Unfortunately, this representation from a Chrysler dealer turns out not to have been true.

A few days ago I pulled the seals completely out of both doors and found rust developing in both of them. The bottom portions of the door gasket channel were the worst. No rust-through was found anywhere, but it was clear that had I not investigated the problem it would eventually have become a very serious problem. I even found what looked to be very small rust bubbles beneath the door channels where they curve upwards from the bottom at the rear portions of both doors. This indicates rust may have begun to form in those areas beneath the channels, a problem I will deal with later. My sincere thanks go to those on this forum who spotted the problem with rust developing in the door channels.

The background of my car is as follows: 2005 SRT-6 coupe with 6,200 miles on it when I purchased it in Ohio three weeks ago. I spoke with the original owner who told me the car had never been driven in the rain or in the winter since new, and that it had always been stored inside. The fact that rust was found in this car seems consistent with other reports of cars that have been babied and stored inside still having rust in the door channels, irrespective of local climate.

The door channel is narrow. A Dremel tool with a standard rotating wire brush disk will not fit inside it. Nor will a toothbrush. To get at the rust, I used a Dremel tool with a straight wire brush end that was basically the same diameter as the brush shaft. Sandblasting would have been better. I'm sure other techniques would work given enough thought. Getting at the rust in the channel is a major problem because of the channels' small size and the front part of the door affording only limited access.

After removing as much rust as I could with a Dremel tool, I used a 3M scouring pad to remove more rust from the channels, used compressed air to clean out the channels, applied naval jelly for about ten minutes to each channel, and thoroughly rinsed the channels with clean water. Then I applied three coats of clear POR 15 to each channel. I sprayed several coats of clear NAPA rust neutralizer over the POR-15 inside the channels. Because of drying times the process took two days.

Per others' comments here, 3M release agent was found to be extremely helpful when putting the rubber gaskets back in the channels. Attempts to put a gasket back into a channel without release agent were generally unsuccessful. Save yourself a lot of trouble by using release agent when putting the gaskets back in the channels.

I will be placing windshield adhesive/sealant between the bottom edges of the rubber triangles located at the forward top portions of the doors near the glass. It is reputedly from this location that water seeps down inside the doors and winds up migrating to locations between the gaskets and the channels. The fact that rust can occur in the channels is an obvious design defect.

My next project: removing the rear spoiler and checking for rust.

I'm glad this resource is available to find out about the problem, because otherwise I would never have know about it and would eventually have wound up with ruined doors.

 

In hindsight I would have done a few things differently in the repair of the door channels. First, I would probably have sandblasted the channels. Second, I would not have purchased a pint can of POR 15 for $29.95 to be used in conjunction with naval jelly. Instead, I would have purchased a POR 15 Super Starter Kit Part #SSK ($19.80), which includes enough POR 15 for the job (a half-pint), a half-pint of Marine Clean (which I assume is like naval jelly), a half-pint of Metal-Ready (to etch the metal), some brushes and latex gloves. Several small brushes are required for the job. POR 15 is almost impossible to remove from a brush after use, so count on throwing them away after a single use. POR 15's order number is 800 457 6715. The 3M release agent I used is Part No. 08879, which has superseded the 3M release agent mentioned above in this thread. I would also have used CRC Tool Guard as a final waxy/oily coating over the POR 15 if I had been able to find some locally (but could not).

 

My husband and I purchased a 2005 Crossfire Coupe Limited with 18,000 miles on it in December 2009. The car looked brand new, but thankfully when I joined this forum, the first posting I saw was to check for rust....which I did...and yes, there was a little in both doors. To make a long story short, with the help of my assistant, (pictured below, and yes, he can actually walk underneath the car) and the starter kit of POR15, we repaired the rust. It actually was quite easy and it was a beautiful sunny, warm day here in West Michigan.

 

With assistants like that, I'm sure oil changes are real easy.

Spotting that rust on a car with only 18,000 miles and car looking brand new must have been very discouraging for you.

 

mbepic...NOTHING is ever discouraging about my crossfire....just very thankful to have it. It's my grocery-getter (me and my poodle and I even put my 88 year old mother in it)!

 

good attitude! I had my '04 Coupe for a couple of years before I found those signs of rust on my door. I don't think I would have liked to see that soon after I bought the car.

I'm thinking you probably have to help Mom in and out of the Xfire because she must sit pretty low in that seat..........but I'm sure she likes the ride as much as you do, maybe more.

 

Geez Andrew! I have recently thought that your Crossfire is gone and that the only car you have left is the BMW 330. Thanks for the heads-up.

 

2006 base model, 51,000 miles. Rust is present, noticed this when the driver side rocker panel/sill looked scuffed up. Apparently little rust flakes were falling on the sill and the molding was rubbing them into the paint . At first I thought I was just dragging my feet when getting in/out but I usually kick the speaker grill not the middle of the sill

Car is still under warranty and chrysler has confirmed they will fix this. (through the dealers body shop) I'd do it myself but the car is heading into the shop for other bodywork anyway (small dent on passenger quarterpanel) and going the dealer route gives me a "lifetime guarantee" peace of mind.

 

Although you are getting the dealer to fix the rust on your Xfire, you will still need to take some steps for future 'rustproofing' to safeguard it from coming back again.

 

Sorry haven't posted in quite some time, but I'm always reading posts here from time to time.

Anyway, I thought I'd say a few words about my 2005 Alabaster Coupe.
Tom Woods post made me a bit paranoid, so I went down to the garage and pulled the cover off and checked my doors, both were like day one with zero signs of rust.

I bought the car used three years ago, with 6500 miles, and since I've owned the car, it's only seen rain once. It's always been garaged and never used in the winter.

Car lives in RI and now has just under 15K.

I very happy that my car is not been consistant with these other tales of rust.....and hope it always stays that way.

Just thought I'd post a positive note on this less than wonderful aspect of our otherwise fine rides.

Cheers

Paul

 

I just bought my Crossfire last week. Today I ran out to my car to get something out of the passenger side door, and when I go to close it, I hear water sloshing around in the door. I then re-open it and move it back and fourth and water procedes to come pouring out of the door.
I then decided to do some research, and I am now a member of these forums. After doing some reading, I made a quick video of my car door,a nd I also noticed that my passenger door does not even have the drain plugs in the bottem. This may have been how the water got into the door last night when I was driving in the rain. But I am not sure. They may have been taken out because of previous problems with water in the door.
Any suggestions? Should I get new plugs? I am going to do the rust treatment as soon as I figure out how, but I guess to plug or not to plug is my delima.
YouTube - MOV058

So I'm guessing these plugs are a dealer only item?

 

Those drain plugs are there for a reason and it is not only to drain water but to keep water out.............now, check under the bottom rubber weatherstripping to see if you have any rust in or around the channel.

 

The drain plugs are in the bottom front and rear corners of the door. That is where the water appears to be coming from.
They may be partially plugged, take off the door panel and clean out the bottom of the door.
By design some water passes through the interior of the door, this come through the rubber hole in the rear corner of the door between glass and steel.
DO NOT plug the door drains or you will convert the car to a water carrier.
I will attach a photo of the door where the water comes in.
Look at photo #3
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...tml#post306164

 

There are drain holes on each side of the door. Probably they are all clogged up and the water isn't draining out of the door. I fully suggest that u use an air compressor with a nozzle to blow into each drain hole so they get unclogged. Then run a water hose into each side so it clears out the debree & dirt. Then again use the compressed air to move that water out. You dont have to get all the water out, just most of it & the rest will dry it's self. I use this method myself & drain plugs MUST be clear!

 

Ouch checked my driver door today, not good



bottom of the door:



The bottom has me worried

Passenger door was completely clear... kinda odd

 

I would not suggest blowing compressed air and water up the drain holes, who knows where the water will splash. It will only blow the debris away from the hole and it may stay away from the hole for a while and then return to plug the holes again.
The debris may be too big to come out of those small holes anyway.
The only way to clear them properly is to remove the door liner and clean it out and inspect for rust, but it's your car so it is up to you.