Just be sure to get them clean and let the sealant CURE for 24 hours before you fire it back up.....

And use some blue loctite on the bolts when you torque them down.... that should keep them in place...

 

Great tip on the locktite- wouldn't have considered it if it weren't for your post.

In regard to liquid gasket application: the service manual I downloaded from this site describes in great detail how much to apply and how as well as the instructions for torquing down after application.

 

Applying Loctite may not be a good idea, this would probably act as a lubricant and using a torque wrench would allow the screw to be turned more than the specification value which is for a metal to metal contact. When cured the release torque required may leed to the head snapping off.
I realize that some people use steel or stainless steel screws but the OEM's are some aluminum alloy and that is what my comments refer to.
For the record I would not use steel screws, as I would assume that they are aluminum for some good reason.

Aluminum screws cost more and Mercedes would not use them for no good reason.

Good RTV seals require an even thickness for the best results as it will skin over evenly and compress evenly. Blobs and thin areas are not going to give a good result. Follow the instructions for the RTV used to the letter.

 

I'll definitely get the new screws from my MB dealer or have the Chrysler one order them. Planned as my weekend project.

 

On the lower gasket do you use rvt and a gasket?

Do i need to order this 2004-2008 Chrysler Crossfire Valve Cover Gasket - Victor Reinz W0133-1632508 - Passenger Side, Direct OE replacement

also what tools do i need?

what is the proper amount of torque? also what is a good torque wrench?

 

No RTV on the gasket.
Yes, that's the gasket for the passenger side.
Look at the bolts and screws and determine the sizes.
Torque wrench?, you could borrow one from someone surely. Tighten to 7 ft/lbs.
This looks good but for a one of use, it's not worth buying and too big for this job really.
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...h-special.html
You could get a cheaper one at a tool shop. A 3/8" square one would do for those bolts you are dealing with on the covers.
Download and save the Repair Manual from this site. There are many files worth saving here as well.
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...tml#post111722

 

Took time to inspect my crankcase breather covers last weekend before heading to Canadian work site. It's been a year since I performed the repair and everything looks today as good as it did right after the repair last year. I'm a firm believer that the type of sealant is as important as the method of application & assembly. The sealant I used was specifically for applications involving vibrations.

Permatex® Ultra Grey® Rigid High-Torque RTV Silicone Gasket Maker


Food for Thought.

 

When I did this repair I chased all the treads with steel bolts to clean the threads and used aluminum bolts as the final fasterner. Used no loctite. Let them cure after mounting, just barely tighten them. After they are cured then tighten them down to the torque setting. I repaired mine about 7 -8 months ago ,still working ok.

 

If you aren't using loctite, and running more boost than stock, be sure to check them frequently. Mine will loosen up...and you don't want that to happen...

 

They do loosen up, I check and retighten them once every two months. I don't drive mine that much, so you may need to check more often if you drive alot.

 

Frist thanks for the great imfo ! Just got done doing mine in the last few days, Letting everything get set up before starting up the Crossy, little cool hear, but it inside and it heated , I took my time and did it over a few days , it will be warmer Sat. and i will get it out and see if i did a good job on it. One thing i notice is once they start to leak a little, ( The beather covers) seem like it took about 8 months before it got really to point that somthing had to be done , You notice the oil smell coming off the engine and inside the cabin of the car , just remeber to take your time doing this job. Clean clean and clean some more Use the heck out the brake cleaner and get all old seal off and clean some more, The Crossfire got about 43,000 miles on it before it stared to leak , over all a easy fix , time well spent in the man cave LOL ! Thanks Guys for the pic and Imfo

 

That's what this Forum is all about!

 

Had her out today everything seem to be holding , no leak , I ran her hard for over a hour through the kentucky Hills so it seem to be working fine ,

 

The last two days the weather has been holding so i have had Crossfire out running her hard , still holding up ,

 

I did both sides of my LTD on the breather covers back several months ago. They worked really well until about a month ago. The driver's side is leaking again, just slightly. I will redo it soon, hate the smell of oil on the exhaust.
Simple Green works good to remove any remnent of leakage.

 

So you can just do the breathers? Or do you have to do valve covers also

 

Just fix what's leaking.

 

Do you guys know how much it would be to re seal one side of the valve cover at the dealer? My driver side one is leaking. Thanks!

 

I have this pesky problem with my car too. I went to the dealership yesterday and placed an order for the 5 cap screw-type bolts to replace the old ones. My question is, I don't have a torque wrench and I'm wondering if I can successfully complete this repair without using a torque wrench? From reading previous posts on this topic, I understand that the bolts should not be over tightened. Any comments or suggestions are welcomed.

Thanks all

 

Yes. Using a regular TORX L-key, and using just ONE FINGER and your thumb, tighten each screw only enough that you feel resistance. If your finger starts to hurt-it's too tight. One has to remember that you are tightening against silicone in this case-not metal-to-metal.