2007 coupe Ltd.: Let's start with the low brake pedal. A year ago I replaced the front brake pads and first just bled the front brakes - no good. Then went through the left rear, right rear, right front, and left front drill. Still sucked. Did it again, no difference. I was told I'd get used to it. I don't claim to be an expert, but even though they're vintage cars, I've managed - generally after a lot of work - to get a good pedal on the Alfa's I restore from the ground up. Is the ABS system the problem for getting all of the air out of the fluid?

Problem: i've just bought an '05 SRT-6 Coupe (56K miles) so need to sell this very nice car other than the brake pedal situation...and filter leaking.

When test driving the SRT-6 I was astounded by the stop on a dime with less than an inch pedal. I want close to that - pedal wise - for this car before I list it.

Oil filter: It leaks. I've not searched the ends of the earth, but can't find a filter 'wrench' for it. Pep Boys have a 74mm 15 groove filter which won't work since it is supposed to be 14. Also, after I find one is the arrow on top of the filter indicating loosen or tighten? I have a bad feeling that after I've changed with the correct oil, installed a new filter (the good kind), it will still leak. Too bad Mercedes hadn't heard about metal canister type oil filters back in '03. Essentially it is the same set-up on the '58 & '62 Alfa Spiders in my shop.

 

I had both the NA and the SRT and pedal travel was only slightly less with the SRT but much better stopping. You could have a flex line going bad bulging when under pressure on the NA.

Did you also replace the rubber O rings too? Gotta ask, we have seen it all here. I use a ring type gripping wrench with no problems. It's only on at 18 ft/lbs.

 

Canister filters suck, this system is much more civilized. Putting the O-rings in properly helps to stop leaks we have found. I tighten my filters by hand, a strap wrench would do the job I'm sure if you are a bit weak in the wrist.
The tightening is only to stop it from unscrewing, the O-rings will stop it from leaking oil even if unscrewed a fair amount.

If you have just an inch of travel of the brake pedal then something is wrong. There is clearance that needs to be taken up before the first pair of pads move. without adequate clearance the brakes can come on when the fluid expands due to heat or so I read.

 

The oil filter leak should be easy. The top O-ring is usually in the wrong groove if it's leaking. Make sure it's in the second groove and not in the top one. I tighten it with one hand first, then use both for the final twist. No more than that is needed. If the leak is from behind the cooler it's more complicated.

I bleed my brakes constantly because I road race my SRT-6. What works best for me is to bleed with old brake pads so the pistons are extended. If you don't want to go that route you'll need to do what the manuel tells you not to and pump the pedal with the bleeder closed using the 2 person method and then cracking the screw. Even then if the air is around the pistons it won't come out easily. I've put a gallon through the circuit with rebuilt calipers and new pads and in the end had to bleed with the old pads and reinstall the new ones once bled.

Les