Hi,
Has anyone had a single piece aluminum driveshaft made for there car in a 6 speed or auto?
Get ride of the flex discs and the carrier bearing and less rotational weight.
Change out the flex discs and install aluminum plate to mount driveshaft yolk and u joints on transmission and rearend.
TY
Speedy

 

Has anyone had a driveshaft made ?

 

Does anyone have a companion flange or 3 arm prop lying around?
I found some ideas I am working with.

1 is I think I might have found a new companion flange that can have common bolt on yoke.

2 is taking companion flange completly off and bolt on a common yoke, but will have to cut off the pilots

3 is custom made yokes front and rear and will not have to cut off the pilots, $125-$140 if they can modify one of there shelf, $170 - $180 If made from scratch and will be direct bolt on, using our normal seals.

4 is solid aluminum bolt on 3 bolt flange, that will be a direct bolt on our companion flanges.

and can have a single aluminum driveshaft cut down and reballanced.
have options for that also.
​​​​​

been working with another senior member on some measurements, but at the point i need a spare flange in my hand.

TY
Speedy

 

as we spoke about last week, I love the idea, but decided to stay stock, being i with my V8
I have way more torque than the V6 and i feel i need a little give in my drive line , and being i have over 400 runs with a stock driveshaft without a failure, with what i and you found we could make a steel one piece drive shaft for under $500.00 maybe under $300.00,, two ways, 1. a yoke with a 30 spline and 2 1/2 " tall u joint. https://www.carid.com/replacement-driveshaft-yokes.html,,,,,, 2. the companion flange

https://www.googleadservices.com/pag...9aACCD4&adurl=
hope you get it all sorted out jim

 

Found bolt on carbon fiber driveshaft with cv joints that bolt on the 3 bolt companion flanges we have now that is rated for 1,000 hp and say it will increase 60' times.
as I was telling you having a solid driveline instead of the flex discs.

 

that is great post a pic of it and the cost, you never know i might get one. thanks jim

 

Over $1,000

When I find a 3 arm prop to take with me, get measurements and to take with me to match up to other options will makes things easier.
went to a salvage yard after work yesterday looking for a 3.5" aluminum driveshaft with slip, without luck bad problem with forklifts tearing up driveshafts, especially the aluminum ones.
most common would be from a 01-11 ranger supercab, 4x4 with manual transmission.
and when I have a prop in my hand, the vechile's I believe we could use parts from, like a ford 8.8 pinion yoke, to take the yoke off check measurements and see if the prop will slide on, and if it fits good then more options for cheap off the shelf parts or if someone wants to do the work, go to a salvage yard to get parts and get done cheap.

found a listing on ebay that crossreference the mopar numerous for prop and says crossfire, charger, 300, and acouple others all use the same prop.
​​​​​​
and want to double check our pinion and output shaft on manual and auto all have same spline and use the same props, companion flange, driveshaft flange etc.

 

For a single driveshaft, the heat shield over rear cats needs to be removed, would be over my mf muffler, the linkage plate for the nsg370 slight modification which would be minor, and acouple small things for a 3.5" aluminum shaft, for a 4" shaft would have to cut off the mounting for the carrier bearing, a 3.5" is close but should work.
explorer sport trac (I believe) and a 4" aluminum with a slip but the 3.5 from even a isuzu axiom can be cut down, but like with a ranger, the more common the easier to find and cheaper.
if we can use the pinion flange from a ford 8.8, then would be easy to get the aluminum shaft and cut down and reballanced, change out props on front and rear with the pinion flanges and would have the yokes that come with it, then would have cheap single piece aluminum driveshaft with 1330 joints.
I am trying to find yokes to switch out props to yokes, and leave pilots on, to have less parts.
well I found some but trying to find some that are less than $180 apiece.

 

Can a few people help me please.
Help cross reference atleast some part numbers???
From what I have found on acouple sites says the crossfire, charger, 300, and acouple others all use the same 3 arm prop.
Help me double check please with pics and part numbers, counting splines and atleast seeing if the look the same.
And if you find some good pics and post here of the prop for crossfire and from other vechicles and any info you find please.
I have been crawling under vechicles in salvage yards for past 3 days looking at and measuring driveshafts, and if the pinion flange from charger or 300 etc ss the same then I can take one off and be checking and test fitting on acouple other rearends that I am thinking about.
Have a good bead on some aluminum driveshafts with slips that is common and with standars1310 joints with is plenty, if on a modded srt and wants this setup, I would suggest paying more to get stronger 1310 joints, or building from scratch using 1330 or best 1350 joints, but the 1310 is stronger than what we have now anyway.
And with the many vechicles I have crawled under, I might have a idea for a steel shaft that is the right length.
But need some help with info on flanges, making sure manual, auto and pinion on our Crossfires are the same and if the part numbers cross reference and the same on other chrysler or dodges etc.

Than You
Speedy
​​​​​​

 

I have found contradicting info some say we have 29 spline, some say 30 spline.
Need to know which we have, and if both ends are the same, or is one a 29 and other a 30?
Do not particularly want my car down atm striping it.
Next week may be the last chance I have for awhile to be able to go to a salvage yard and test parts.
And monday is my best time to go, will have more time.

 

I am surprised that I am the only one that wants to do this????????????

 

Well, going to start tearing into my car this morning, was hoping to find a companion flange for our crossfire so I could use to measure and compare or have something to reference as I make something.
A extra $66 a week in gas driving my truck than my crossfire

 

Front and rear props are different, atleast on the nsg370, could be the same on the auto, idk.
Have a few ideas, well more than a few.

 

Picked up a aluminum driveshaft, and some other parts to test, trying to get time to go to a machine shop and getting some flange adapter plates.
Going to pickup a 3" steel shaft also that I believe is the right length and will not need cut down.
Last weekend I cut down a piece of 3" pvc and did a test fit, and believe a 3" driveshaft will not need any modifications the 4" aluminum will need acouple brackets modified, will find out.
But think with just 2 adapter plates made a oem driveahaft with slip will bolt in, and can single it and have a full service able driveshaft cheap.

 

And if everything is right can have a 3.5" aluminum driveshaft with slip, adapter plates in aluminum for around $800, and is good for 700 hp.
With the weight savings and adding more power to the wheels with less power loss, increase 60' and take 2 tenths off 1/4

 

Talked with a machine shop that will do both adapter plates shipped for $315, 5 day to get made and priority shipped.
Then with the adapters and flange yokes might be able for a 05 -09 mustang driveshaft to be a bolt on.
Have my 4" aluminum, and picking up a 3" mustang driveshaft this evening if I can have the time, and can check the lengths and test fit.

Still need to weigh stock driveshafts.

How much have you spent to have your oem shafts rebuild with new flex discs, center carrier bearing and u joint ???

 

Got a place to make the plates for $130 and cut down and reballance aluminum driveshaft for $80
$28 for aluminum driveshaft with slip, $14 apiece for new u joints, need to get new bolts still.

Lighter, rebuild able and cheaper than rebuilding oem

Anyone else want plates while he has the program?

 

Have my aluminum driveshaft, and new yokes.
Going to get driveshaft cut down and reballanced next week, just waiting on my adapter plates, if they do not get here soon, I will make my own, I have some 5 3/8 x 1 lathe stock, just time is my problem and trying to find someone that can make them at a descent price if anyone else wants to.

Here is some of the info for adapters


I purchased 2 more flange yokes.
Part number 2-2-329
SPECS:

1.375" = CENTERLINE OF UJ TO FLAT OF FLANGE FACE
2.375" = MALE PILOT DIAMETER
3.875" = FLANGE SWING DIAMETER
.375" = BOLT HOLE DIAMETER
3 1/8" = BOLT HOLE CIRCLE DIAMETER

The other set of flange yokes I have, measured with calipers, would like to use but if you can not get the timing correct for bolt holes, than would use the other pair. Ty

64.99 male pilot
95mm bolt circle diameter
10mm bolts
Would prefer to use but believe timing the 4 bolt over the 3 bolt will have the holes to close together

3 arm props measured with calipers
100mm bolt circle diameter
12mm bolt holes
16mm pilot .6300"

A 5" x 1" aluminum
With a .6320 pilot all the way through, .0020" larger to fit
3 12mm bolt holes in a 100mm bolt circle diameter, with 18mm recess 12mm deep for cap bolts
So the flange yoke will sit over top of the flange yoke
The 4 bolt holes for the flange yoke need to be threaded

Of course I have lots of pics, I can post if anyone wants I can post.

O and new driveshaft is stronger and lighter and alot higher critical mass.

 

I do not know if you can but plugging the holes with tight plugs and tack welding them in place would be an option. Alternatively threaded plugs staked in position is another option. You are just building up side strength. If the holes touch then the welding method is the option, but the weld would be deeper and all around. Both options would be flush.

 

I want to see your pics. I've been following along ,since you started this thread. Im sorry, I didn't have anything of substance ,to add to your quest; I am interested ....