Hi guys,

Both sides are leaking pretty bad so I want to take care of it this weekend. I've read the thread on it so I think I am good but what can I use to remove the old gasket material? I don't want to use something too abrasive. Will a scotch brite pad be good or would it be too abrasive? Don't want to cause any damage thats for sure.

Thanks guys.

 

I've done a number of these. I use a small/fine stainless steel wire toothbrush and a pick, The valve covers are quite durable, but I agree you should be as gentle as possible.

You will find it's pretty hard to do a good job.

Endeavour to persevere.

 

I've used scotch brite pads on aluminum for gasket removal, just beware of which color you are using, and try using WD 40 as lubricant while cleaning. All should be good. On the valve covers I also used a very thin coating of #2 non-hardening permatex wiped with my fingers to ensure no leaks when completed. Max has access to some type of grease which does the same job, but I'm sure is easier to deal with should the covers be removed again in the future.

 

Thanks for the input guys, which color scotch brite should I be using?

And where would I get the stainless steel wire brush?

Thanks again.

 

I have used an industrial solvent with the wire brush with good results.

 

I'm old fashioned.
I used a maxcichon to get it done.
( that is a tool that was imported to Auburn from Wisconsin )

 

LOL!

You got me there, brother...

You can find the SST toothbrush at any auto parts store.

 

Goo B Gone works awesome, I did mine a couple months ago.

 

I've used this before:


Works well.

 

We have magnesium valve covers that pit over time. I hope your's aren't pitted and need replacing. Good Luck..Squirrel Crusher

 

How long should (new) valve cover gaskets last? And what could cause them to leak "prematurely", meaning in 10,000 miles, less than 2 years………..Thanks!

 

Your gaskets are not bad - or probably aren't. Its the damn RTV-stuff between the valve covers and breather covers that fails.

I changed my gaskets, too. But that was just on "General Principles" as I had the covers off.

As to removing the old RTV, I peeled most of it off by just picking at it with a TINY awl, being VERY careful to not damage the cover itself. What was left melted away with a toothbrush dipped in gasoline. I had 2 or 3 little spots that would not come off, I used a brass brush dipped in gasoline and LIGHT force and the stuff came right off.

Someone tell me if I did wrong here.

My car is an 07 with 33,000 miles. THe gaskets were fine, but like I said, after getting that far into it, I changed them anyway as well as all the (supposedly) "single use" bolts.

 

My 2 cents; Take it for what is worth. The gaskets do not go bad, but if they are installed per Chrysler/Mercedes Benz instructions they will leak. With out a sealant between the gasket and metal, oil will eventually find it's way beyond the gaskets mating surface. The constant heat cool cycle and possible loosing of the torqued screws will allow oil to seep between the metal and the gasket. That is what oil is suppose to do; it will penetrate and lubricate two surfaces. I use Permetex #2 (non hardening) when installing the valve cover gaskets to delay that oil seepage. Others on this forum use their own preferred sealants. I also feel that a little seepage isn't a leak. Leaks to me will drip. I can live with a small oily spot with dust on it, but not oily drips. Many dealers/auto mechanics will tell you that the covers are leaking just to get the easy fix job for their pocket book when all you actually have is some dust stuck to the small oil spot you see near the gasket area. JUST MY TWO CENTS>
PS there is a difference between the breather covers and the valve covers, but many use the terms interchangeable.

 

I've done a few of these on our cars, and more than a few on old US V8's.

I've yet to see an oil leak from the OEM Mercedes valve cover gaskets. The BUNA/aluminum seal seems to work perfectly, unlike the old sheet-steel VC's of my youth.

I apply a very light coat of silicone vacuum grease (viscosity-stable to 212F) to the gaskets, just because it's the way I do it.

The RTV you add, IMHO, does nothing. The Germans got this one right.

The RTV they use, or the application of it, is a real issue. More leak, with time, than don't.
But I've had great luck (?) using my method of true-cleaning and proper application of "Black" Permatex.

And, that's MY 2 cents.

The value of advice, in general, is inversely proportional to it's cost.

Chew on THAT one, folks!

 

I'll go along with this method, why add something that is not needed. If you have to go in there again for some reason you have to waste time getting the stuff off.
Fortunately I have had no leaks, touch wood, but I know how I would fix them, I'd use maxichons methods for covers and vents.

 

Great.

Now I have to go out and buy a bigger hat.

Thanks, 180.